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  1. Tired Iron's Shop

    Post Office delivered the control rod for my Sunstar the other day. I purchased it from Jack's Small Engine and have to say I was not impressed. I ordered what I saw as "In Stock" where the parts I ordered were in fact not in stock and had to be ordered. So, it took much longer for the part to arrive than I was expecting. I had thought about rebuilding the old control rod, but I abandoned that idea because the control rod cost $27. The surgery was short and simple (about an hour), no other surprises when replacing the control rod. I greased the front U-joint while I had the covers off.

    Now if we can get it to warm up here in southeastern WI so I can mow the grass again. It is very deceiving to look out the window and see things greening up and it is only 44 degrees.

    control rods replacement.jpg

  2. gwiseman
    Latest Entry

    My ST and farming friends all convinced me a loader would make lifting a lot easier so I've been on the hunt for one that fit my pocketbook for nearly a year. Passed up a few that I probably shouldn't have, looked at newer small compact utility tractors but a little too pricy. I found a CL ad listing a loader with this piture

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    From discussions here I thought it probably was a Kwikway for an early Legacy so I answered the ad via email with my contact info and waited. No response for over a week but after a second attempt I received an email back asking me to talk to the owner's son. I did, made an offer (mid September) and sent a check telling the owner I would let it clear and contact them to pick up in about a month. Mid October I made the 4.5hr trip and brought home my Kwikway made loader with subframe, weight box, and rear wheel weights

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    Looks a lot nicer on the trailer after I wiped off the dust. I didn't know it at the time but Lloyd pointed out the long subframe I brought home is not for the loader but is for a front blade or snowblower. 

    K6DJnYtlRKGsg9PP4cVAIg.thumb.jpg.daf8dd44e1b499f4bb7c9368900346d3.jpg

    And then the bonus I saw on the parts tractor parked in the shed. 3pt hitch

    JepJrrJrRtW7zAsvFxxL6g.thumb.jpg.d8bde84cf380820a6f04e3a8490a5c40.jpg

     

    blade subframe, 3pt frame and wheel weights rode home in the bucket

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    Loader setting on stands in my drive. Hoping it works as good as it looks. 

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    I didn't get these hangers; didn't think about it as I was making sure I got all the big stuff loaded. Have contacted the loader previous owner and waiting. Otherwise I have pictures and info from @720nut.

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    A CL ad for an AGCO 2025 popped up south of Kansas City.  @Talntedmrgreen told me to be patient and I would find what I wanted. Well, hopefully I have. With low price comes some mechanical work I know but I think I can still get in under budget. The 60" deck is solid but needs electric cutting height motor, new rollers, and some new hardware. I negotiated what I thought a fair price for the tractor so the deck isn't part of the plan.  

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    Will start giving the tractor a bath and replace a few things including this finless fan. Harder than it appeared to replace but a relative inexpensive $11 part. With a pair of thin jay slip joint pliers and 1 1/8" wrench it came right off. Below the finless and the new replacement and then the new fan mounted on the front pto.

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    The heim and hub/arm steering assembly were worn badly, had been fixed-at but not fixed at all

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    Old and new replacement parts 

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    Talk about a bugger to get off. I tried pulling, heating and pulling, heating and squirting with PB Blaster but it wouldn't budge. So I soaked PB and let it set overnight. I love it when a plan works

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    New parts installed. Generic 3/4" RH thread heim $16 and hub/arm steering assembly $94. High priced pieces that Josh tells me is a wear point on the older Legacy. 

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    Fenders were crinkled from some prior modification and probable oops. A little hillbilly body work and it has more eye appeal.

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    Side bar: October 31, 2019  I don't ever remember snow on or before halloween (my birthday) either in Northeast Missouri where I grew up or in Mid Missouri where I've lived for the past 26 years. The deck this morning: 1st picture at 6a then a picture at 8a CST

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    November 23, 2019  Started working on the hangers. Lloyd PM'd a rough drawing and description of the hangers he built for a similar subframe. I used cardboard as a model then respaced the holes equidistant from the ends. Pictured is a cardboard mock of a rear hanger. 

     5de3163d318af_FIzv76RSHqpYQVPdVfI7g.thumb.jpg.e61fb0312ff70ca392714224b4b13693.jpg

    Front hangers made from 3/8" flat iron 3" wide. 

    5dde7cd646a08_KC06kuuySUmLnxzw3fD8A.thumb.jpg.c2230f9b3bea1436d7e20083ed7d3824.jpg

    Front hangers in place.

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    November 27, 2019  Lifted loader subframe into position and pinned to front hangers. Used this to make mock up of rear hangers. 


    iBlxQV1eTDitLqi0Jji6Vg.thumb.jpg.4a923133174663399d1390bec05039b6.jpg

     

    Picture from under right side at rear of loader subframe hanging in approximate alignment. 

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    High tech machining taking place in the Wiseman shop...

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    Picture from left side under the tractor after bolting up the rear hangers and pinning up the subframe front and back. .

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    December 1, 2019  My neighbor Mark has been a lot of help on the shop and in the shop. He came down this Sunday after noon to look at speakers in our house when I asked if he minded helping me drop the loader onto the tractor subframe. It wasn't as easy as that but after a little tractor movement and prybar use we pinned the uprights in place. I was resolved to hook up the hydraulic pump outside but Mark convinced me that we could skid the bucket on boards into the shop for a warmer work environment. Glad he persisted. Below are shots after we got everything hooked up and I had taken it to the gravel pile for a test run with no weight on the rear.  Backed into the shop for further adjustments and rear weight box attachment. 

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    Seems the hose is too long running to the pump but zip ties are doing the job for now. Also, the pipe nipples are a little long off the pump so I may change those later. 

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    Saturday December 21, 2019 temps were in lower 50s so I opened the shop door and welded couple hooks onto the loader bucket to increase the versatility. 

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    Need a new boot for the joystick and couple of zerks - and found that zerks cannot be found (the proper terminology when searching TSC is grease fitting). Since the tractor spends its downtime inside the boot is not a priority. The zerks (later pics) are on the end of the tilt rams at the bucket.  

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    welded couple of Chinese hooks on the bucket w/my little Hobart 125EZ mig. 

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    and used some black metallic paint I had leftover from a project to make 'em look pretty

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    3.30.2020  Received a load of clean fill from a neighbor contractor late last week. Ground finally dried up enough to load and transport. Man I have to shim the valve up a little though.

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    Then took receipt of a 4cy double ground mulch. Used the loader to fill the dump cart pulled by the Hydro-18. 3 days use saving back - - I'm liking it. 

  3. Wendell Bragg

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    Been sitting around for 5 years and finally coming to the top of the Queue.  Saw it on craigslist and immediately called at around 8PM.  It was located about two hours away so I asked the guy if he would hold it for me.  He said no, as he had other interested parties.  I asked if I could come up that night.  He said, "You want it that badly"?  I said, "Yeah, I have been looking for one."  So he said he would hold it.  Got it the next day for $350.  It came with a 5 ft deck, front blade, rototiller and a vacuum system but no gas tank.  

    When I brought it home, I got it to fire by squirting fuel into the carb.  I added a gas tank but now it won't run and the starter seems to have died.  I tried to use an impact drill to turn it over for a compression test but no.  Rather than start throwing parts at it, I decided to repower with a Predator 670 Honda clone.

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  4. Mark Denison

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    I bought my 620 new in Nov. 1974. I used to do a limited amount of custom garden plowing/tilling for fellow Church members, friends, & neighbors. I also mowed 2-3 acres for the 1st 25 years until the mower deck was too rusty to continue. I repowered it in 1999 with a 22 HP Kohler Command, before there were repower kits to my knowledge.

    Almost two years ago, after extensive use of the Simplicity 48" tiller, apparently one of the bearings seized so suddenly (after I switched the rear PTO off), that when I tried to switch it back on again a few minutes later, it instantly killed the engine "graveyard dead".

    Can I replace the short (rear) shaft, it's two bearings & whatever else is necessary, just by removing the seat, top cover, & transaxle cover? Is it likely that I'll have to also replace the long shaft & it's gears & bearings?

    I may have availability for used parts nearby. I haven't called Sandy Lake yet.

    Thanks for whatever advice anyone can offer.

  5. Mike_H
    Latest Entry

    I've been wanting a way to move dirt with my tractors since I got them.  Building a loader isn't in the cards...yet.  Simplicity however made a grader blade for their tractors that by all accounts works pretty well.  I've been meaning to build something for a while anyway and since grader blades are pretty spendy for what they are (300 bucks or so), I decided to build my own!

    I had an old plow blade laying around the garage that I decided to cut in half for the grader blade.

    I also wanted to add some ripping capability with this thing, so I bought a swisher scarifier from Wal-mart for about 80 bucks.

    Here is the frame I built...

    qoFG19VCauSBkVh-EkkPaZKcS_XnLPv2QBvVR4sqZOuDEKMdOgJXAzsaZTy16nwR0BocPHpHITA1k1yo4TVdIjVXNds__oh5SE4aQu_VBZ4Za3YKCEsIqzjbOsZlaD6D0-VyiNd3uZj0_dwwBpY3iCVmY6BwFGQsH1RkrLwZ_bbX7Toi7twj4uDWB73HOmHgcpWQ5z6zu_Clzf86042R8oomOdlUmHfGEbUal2I4qNwU7WMwjYpe3JOCgLKP4Qn2SpJcHq9KgWail3aKQjIns68fQ4SPQBTvFSNgJPoaixHfNvZW3_slAaelb_SDVsxVCc_jfh_uEF35qeCLgFG1hNbiy5r1DufmCRZmcAvBVw8utmraQPaldNjphBoit3MsWzLW7wnqH1m1FHZqReiqYJxZ3y5_qo31x1vlVeUyxVdG1vX5GdfP0EUKmpUTKT-cLdYeSeAvaXV_wMPvyE5BYDuSrpVGMbr8K1WGNVHdlTV1y_SUZtkrN2sHzGRrCmC1TO9pIKzS2Q08TFuvXhq9E6IIWdCK5atKyTyMfQKv5hZGiwcadG2WHeExBtAIL0IQsxaR3ZmwRA-efDIoWzNszHEOLEM3fVCjiG6yk8WW9nG36rzkz9HqgA=w1135-h638-no

    And the plow mount...

    13hSHjqjQT59u94Wsqg38Q1u_580c3-AV--xQH670mKjqQ0PhegjWnimRJ6yNzcUk5sqgx0uR1srSaUeBRm-Wl4jGNLXX6vPv3_Xf9eL0aauhXBSnt5Hlr8QnIcoZfWI4PSPJw-swsSc9w50pUI7k_GrY6lDNRUQcLN-OX0719_jBd2yemMLftqg0xZjv5u7DnFKuoR3O_p0A4agVJpge3gEbsPD9dV6BwVp4PdBOxae9X_7xO-OQLo-69H3a1HBJqnOj7sLvYNTWXVZA_mKXTMjhynnJTMaq_aiK9jkrFLm5am2WieQdzUtQhadM-RtT_US4M-I_n1SH4q8dWxRwtt81xdVdWL2xghlvPjsa5IPlS0aXmiLIM8XUhe_XhL5scrZVER7TqjQbs3zrV3s8d_cKsNJK5BTObld1lnJAbLRgxg4e0tXPBYGGXXmYu8sYOVA8h6hC55updout1yE1FGQE0bPASExBTi1fHVm2ivCEMDZJ0qthJ8DZzxjhjD0_jTvw4MU9OFZnF5Hi3lf0mK0O7_kfiZccsR4JhQ-FM91_ltlitC1tK_UcOF7vEcXvtXHUncQVm9dX6ztgR_fN3wdMyuXU2WeGsQJHX9WOL9KFV8SJ_Cyfw=w1135-h638-no

    There are three positions the grader blade can be in, centered, Right and left.
    Here it is with the teeth on one side.


    Z73bhEUaeAcpUmo6zrp11I_xt3vfli4nJLCqg8z1GYmy8LHH3Mhby-sPSCR4oeibyXfW2MjPvt6UCO8uu2VHa8t9aBh6rcGpYvy71vdjF01-HzCmXRgPjpb0lpzZlzSCqnYI82CH4MrFlu94fhy1vtngXnxVfeM5OLpkIDvoHo0MEuPN-eVSAWnEbIgjGLGo2pBVsHP13mkiLJTG7YHjDSEDKao9GuD0WaZDr8ttlpLu47syP2JAlJdBEnLiDvGaRkU6obUD94sgkRehevlDAvAFbOYFsD6a4VTStCLx9X1Dv--sM7CDaROdPr6My6M2fHjMNDeDjncdRWOkngZGzn0oLeMRQcpRjuNYfNKUQeHveB0948cftVZmfpRY5W1F2cZ738kBB__sv27e9e2s4oJqoKfVzuJoNdltHGDM_LIFE6yx65soq7446qkRo2xd1tV6whZqOpllLVScm17ZjG17RNhO_rtVYCejaNvuIhO2xrwHfdbZduodpjkGtg7hVmpUhpOOUsyMtPHR7DZgm7nR6UE0CEox4BXNQuXUwCttHZVwGx54-FwHjDLJJiGnX1dO4qpWJbIraNNUSy9n9uFNvcoS0QDvolT8JyGiOnU_YiyDsCXoHA=w1135-h638-no


    And finally, all together, and ready to mount to a tractor.

    HPjc-r1l7knlMWBoVQx2IaasDM5LkFgv8nIxJ3cEmUveB818YA74HVwSfGv-9mz08hed5WkvNZo_ljrV1kWv5cSE1Jig5Whf3xYo_IKEr7QCcxp3rwpgwjosu4iM9x8CaGKJ9vNUMWUS1ts7Z6IfuGCBGQkTY9lki08PXcr2f9yz_4QFbyXAw8Hy-wNerxVbi4kTKFgCoUaIUB-1BPtF3eMKd_Us0zLi34UuorgEgwlPUD9GrttSEiedd_P-rxhRXm2gKQgCVcg2Ik4qVI0IvqBbLNp2GUhp8lPSjUd21DDhglkbkF_iMjVwpXVmW119wqnfLrxVpffywJDzpsm26F6j-smEMDHnrznuAGYVIAzwtCE6d1FkmC5nJqnnjFBkN6YhEfqdPD-jKzdaIMpqbtQT2Z0zhCsaE0zQ8SX5W4Bj8qxrRdzCQHzLsVu9EqBfQ8avU6PtjXsUynHpRzzxHaH1UofjG0WDmFoUEqbjTh-EtunyaGh_l0YgofETZ0cHIsh-blDqD0DakW5xkp9Eq9yQ-AH-vHpu-KsF-Zrx6pwRpnb683OAPsr-kZvk5X6Q0LIAjzyOzSHdl7R1_PtvooXBvIL0K_rKTcHjo9Wdrgyf7XZWO5IY0w=w1135-h638-no

    FZeZCAeGyyCNTVT1l6z0VGtpGeshT2lW1oRqMQp61KC0Jhu456e-nDGzhIbzbT7bXqjosCrJ5jpJ8B1MyD5ulkM1Yqj9SVnw_o8NXxCc-WMKfZjHz8AVUgzx6Zvcv0U1ZtIF9B7ordeSyFg_juICI2gHn6aiQf6GrrcOxcyslz1wqVY_mdTcU7Ou1I90FQ5AmNRvvudmqU5f8tXOq2MDL0QzMe1GvLxLYJFM1j_KdHvc5qt8V7YJHEyk1b0mwOiViSLXeJiEhXzfxZ0t8dKAZaFG60kJdRcTfC2eeTsVYatpZ2ETAbGPTtodOTftRXIq7V-w6-RN0hbt8n-Hj1kGF1KrwyZJaaJYpaTmPvqJ_6AAgiV49iPe_2UdJ8s6rjlWom7AngXh0BohJEIKAZUwOJmIW9E61qWMC5qm1kojc8aI5dcYBkbgB9b4t7yj49uefiyCOl2HvrybrFiO-ngQQ__lBvIFaGD5VbteudTGYf2BRoiUF3-mFvI76_sQOha7AB2fAweMNEcfi6Eo4r0KJxYkGYzd6Yyxxfw8GiRjtcNzPDCmpBg0ALvniaHqP--Qzi7AEPgcPEKLA-pLK3QqBWCTCNKDzn2kzLu1kqSafvNxK7Bl3A=w1135-h638-no

    I used it on a test run over memorial day weekend.  I had a nasty patch of my backyard left over from my barn construction project that was starting to be taken over by weeds.  I tilled it in, then used the grader blade to level the ground back out.  It worked BEAUTIFULLY...

    zybBc1F6iIRzAHvtFquVsFZnUuXQ2zzsB9q_nlfh-zLaSpPOsbbmQjs7-2dKlU8AstYpaQvUoiOhF92sAnZsMC_YKIifQtc2yU3LxNUvM5VpDTxS5fMwrBoU2WkONgAL0b4TTggErIdEy3g4LHBKrwaw-zu8bOYrcdWvLnfTQy2YFUC2DISptf4FYsCdbPsoH2OXSMXKAxGnfLH344LXp5ztKfTXCJ_C6QCMCMQ8nt9k_xkEdXk1mwP3egBFLUhp3-Zq_1eWygAp0OZNqrejz88n6MaabfuV7AqWnxfMH0i7ua3P52QyNmg1k4Kdxcd0DgtnAbbs_TSrczAr1b5XG7w4SWGHLND2Xpj9sCplO0U-dVCbrqTBeB1of41fMBv8HiWSjoQ0uBPsVhl4lM7h6FlEjLK64v_etW7mQoaaYARxhhXySfY866BfdEhsm0mcXwugaGU7oj1j0L-4cYXjBj1SA2x5JC2RPMBRVCKFUpvWQAp_QXDpPed_296z2-2ONk66U8dUyl1UwAKiVsqFsTRMGiUvYw2eTpsRWGvoDdHJYgeM2FYSocG7YyE_aGZLla4jgpBcs3D3IHXR4VcyGRJujdEYAKWbDusdrXBxgd4AvotJu4LSCg=w1135-h638-no

    I will get it painted some day...


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  6. I've enjoyed taking some time off and working on the honey-do list and springtime chores, though both are never-ending.  But, I thought it time to provide an update, since it is rainy, and I'm procrastinating going to the garage to work.  In addition to updating the software with new releases, and monitoring my email for "I can't log in" types of things, I have added a few more things to the site:

    1.  In addition to the Leaderboard that came with a recent release of the core software, I've implemented a Top Contributors function.  It shows the people who've posted the most content in specific areas, by week, month, year, etc.  There's been discussions in the Executive Committee about possibly setting up a competition (similar to Tractor of the Month) to reward the top contributors.  I also have a programmer looking at taking this module even farther in what it tracks and counts, should we decide to implement a competition.

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    2.  Due to feedback on the member list that I was using, I had a custom one developed and implemented.  There's still some issues with missing data, but the function seems to be working well, and the plug-in that catches missing mandatory info seems to be working;  

    Here's a topic describing it:  https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/56722-new-member-list/

    Here's a direct link to it, underneath the Membership menu:  https://simpletractors.com/mlist/

    Note that the amount of information displayed depends upon your access level.  Dues-paying members can see more information.

    3. Also based upon requests, I implemented a Member Map that allows you to place a pin on a map identifying the city and state where you live.  (Smart phones will give you the option of using your Location from the phone.)  This could really be helpful in finding people locally who share a similar interest in these old machines. Like most things here, its usefulness depends on the amount of use by others -- and use is optional, since some people are reluctant to share too much information on the web.  

    Here's a topic describing it:  https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/56732-member-map-added/

    Here's a direct link to it, also underneath the Membership menu:  https://simpletractors.com/membermap/

    member-map-crop.jpg

    Note that if there are multiple members in close proximity, it displays them in a round "cluster" with the number of pins within it shown.  For example, the pic above shows 3 members located near Indianpolis IN.  If you click on that round icon, it will zoom in and show the three individual pins on the map.  

    map-cluster-zoom.jpg

    Then, if you click on any one of the pins, it will show the info on that member.  Here's mine, for example:

    member-map-popup.jpg

    Hopefully you can see the value of this, in trying to connect with others in the local area.  Now, if only we can encourage more people to add themselves to the map.  sm01 

    4  Continuing on that same subject of connecting with other enthusiasts locally, I want to give a sneak preview of a core capability coming in the next major release of the software, due out sometime mid-late 2017.  The new core IPS software will have the capability to create sub-groups and corresponding functions for "Clubs".  Since this entire site is already dedicated to a specific club, this new capability will allow us to then create and support "chapters" within the club, and support those chapters with their own functions unique to them.   Implementing chapters is totally up to us -- should we choose to do so -- but the core capability will be there.  Since this club has always been about encouraging face-to-face meetings with others, there has been discussion of creating chapters since the club was initially formed.  This next release of the software will fully support that -- should we choose to do so....

    Here's a look at their default view of clubs (i.e. chapters) from their development/testing server:

    homepage.thumb.jpg.e6c0c5975c431c87087bbc5eb04007c0.jpg

    As shown, each "chapter" could have its own banner for that area.  It would also show a list of the subset of members that are in that chapter, and each chapter would have "leaders" that can act as moderators for this subgroup. (Anyone identified as admin or moderator for the entire site would still have their same access levels/capabilities within these subgroups.):

    club-members.jpg.08bc238b513b6cc30f25f9480a1c31d2.jpg

    We can set this up to control access to these sub-areas or chapters.  See the settings at the top of the list below.  We can also set it up so these chapters can have their own content areas/capabilities from the list at the bottom -- each could have its own forum, gallery, downloads, blogs and calendars to handle their local activities.  If these are set up as either open or public, all club members can see them.  

    58dc0c2449c5c_Members2017-03-2915-31-37.png.612f1d2a201a39a72faab54239ac6aee.png

    Here's a glimpse of what those chapter sub-areas could look like:

     club-content.jpg.81044d4a8f3a00f6bf192d48ccb387ce.jpg

    I'm showing all this to prompt your thinking about the possible creation of club chapters, and to hear your thoughts... 

    5.  Continuing with the sneak previews, the next major release of the software will also include many more small enhancements -- I'm not sure what all yet, since they are slowly providing previews.  For example, instead of just the Like button, there will be other Reactions that can be provided for a piece of content, such as a topic or reply

    .reactions.gif.e3e1974c1fe8430b16ad11831af0d962.gif

    Meanwhile, I need to get back to working on cleaning up the rest of the old Simple trACtors content and republishing it.  I just wanted to provide an update on some of the recent changes and a preview of what's coming.  

    Let me know what you think of creating club chapters, please!

     

     

  7. Incey

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    Recent Entries

    Gidday, this is me testing (myself) to see if I can create a blog!

    My tractor came from a massive but neglected collection covering about 20 acres, of all sorts of farm equipment.  The Simplicity looked very sorry but seems pretty well complete, except for parts of the engine - a Briggs 23D-FB.  I will return to the property now I know what I am missing.  I will be looking for a complete air cleaner, the starter motor and voltage regulator and the wiring.  I need to find out exactly where the battery fits, and to buy the correct size battery.

    I am in the process of dismantling everything, to clean up and to get sandblasted, in readiness for painting.  Still to dismantle are: - steering wheel from steering column, grub screw proving difficult to loosen, may need to heat carefully without damaging the hand grips, - lift lever and shaft, will need heat to get apart, - transmission group, not anxious to touch yet, - differential, not anxious to touch yet, - bevel gear assembly, not anxious to touch yet.  These latter parts will be considered after seeing how easily they turn etc, without too much slop.

    Hood needs piece welded in where previous owner cut a hole for fuel tank lid.  Need to find grill and grill side bars.  Need to find decals/ornaments.  Need cover for front PTO shaft.

    Need a complete seat cushion.

    Need to replace front wheel bearings etc.

  8. Tractor Boy's Blog

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    Simplicity7013H
    Latest Entry

    Hello All, just a little announcement here for those of you who don't know that I have a YouTube channel covering Simplicity Garden Tractors be sure to check it out at:

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChR7RzPuukr1VdbZ3GKlRkQ/featured

    Thanks for all the support! Have a great Day!

  9. Mark Denison

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  • Blog Comments

    • gwiseman

      Report ·

      Posted


      On ‎8‎/‎26‎/‎2020 at 1:21 PM, Talntedmrgreen said:

      Gene, I just kept an eye on my local craigslist (before Marketplace), and nabbed a pair of shorter forks for $75.  By shorter, I mean reasonably long (40"), but shorter than most I saw.  They are much heavier than I intended or than I wanted, but I don't have a way to cut them down.  I think they are rated for 6000#, or something like that.  

      That kept my budget reasonable enough to buy some decent carriage bars.  I got this set below.  Back then they were $100.  The 1.25" top bar is again, more weight than I wanted, but I also didn't want anything bending when bearing the load.  The lower .5" bar I have bent numerous times, usually, when using the forks to press down on things.  It's easier to do than you would think, once you start using forks almost exclusively.  I welded angle to the bars, spacing them based on the forks I had, and though I have cracked a couple of my popcorn welds, I have had more use from this than probably anything else besides a mower deck.  It's a hefty setup though.  If I could shave 40lbs or so off the weight of my forks by trimming them with a plasma cutter, I would love to.  I think if I cut them in half they would still never bend with the forces I am facing.  I certainly would not want anything longer, as these have plenty of reach for what I do, and I don't really want the load any further out.

      https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-25-Thick-Pair-of-Pallet-Fork-Carriage-Bars-blades-attachment-bobcat-weld/291772776815

      118436797_312882099792473_1914426717243507089_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_sid=b96e70&_nc_ohc=dy5k3Uy6QZMAX_gtPfc&_nc_ht=scontent-msp1-1.xx&tp=6&oh=2397379f4f85ef4eaa9158d06a762254&oe=5F6A412E

       

      I saw one built for cat 0 3pt up in IA couple of months ago I thought about buying to convert. I also know that Ken & Jason Holz fab them for loaders and heck I thought I may just get out of the house for the 8hr scenic tip to MN sometime. You guys @Talntedmrgreen @SmilinSam are enabling for sure...

    • Talntedmrgreen

      Report ·

      Posted


      55 minutes ago, gwiseman said:

      I lifted everything up by engine hoist that is going to hit the road soon. Forklift would be great but of course those are hard to come by - especially in MO. But, I have been using the legacy loader, not the most desirable, but it works. Think I'll get a set of forks built to use in place of the bucket (cheaper than a forklift attachment I hope Thanks for encouragement. Like any addict - that's what I need....

      Gene, I just kept an eye on my local craigslist (before Marketplace), and nabbed a pair of shorter forks for $75.  By shorter, I mean reasonably long (40"), but shorter than most I saw.  They are much heavier than I intended or than I wanted, but I don't have a way to cut them down.  I think they are rated for 6000#, or something like that.  

      That kept my budget reasonable enough to buy some decent carriage bars.  I got this set below.  Back then they were $100.  The 1.25" top bar is again, more weight than I wanted, but I also didn't want anything bending when bearing the load.  The lower .5" bar I have bent numerous times, usually, when using the forks to press down on things.  It's easier to do than you would think, once you start using forks almost exclusively.  I welded angle to the bars, spacing them based on the forks I had, and though I have cracked a couple of my popcorn welds, I have had more use from this than probably anything else besides a mower deck.  It's a hefty setup though.  If I could shave 40lbs or so off the weight of my forks by trimming them with a plasma cutter, I would love to.  I think if I cut them in half they would still never bend with the forces I am facing.  I certainly would not want anything longer, as these have plenty of reach for what I do, and I don't really want the load any further out.

      https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-25-Thick-Pair-of-Pallet-Fork-Carriage-Bars-blades-attachment-bobcat-weld/291772776815

      118436797_312882099792473_1914426717243507089_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_sid=b96e70&_nc_ohc=dy5k3Uy6QZMAX_gtPfc&_nc_ht=scontent-msp1-1.xx&tp=6&oh=2397379f4f85ef4eaa9158d06a762254&oe=5F6A412E

       

      • Thanks 1
    • SmilinSam

      Report ·

      Posted (edited)


      On 8/21/2020 at 2:34 PM, Talntedmrgreen said:

      I think you’d be surprised! I put my stuff on pallets so I have to hit it fairly straight, but items that are not on pallets don’t require a straight on approach anyway.  I wiggle my Legacy through some pretty tight spots in my garage to scoop things up. You got to go slow and sometimes things need to be moved out of the way, but it sure beats trying to wrestle something down by hand. Maybe sometime I’ll video it, and if it’s not too embarrassing, I’ll share… &:)

      Straight on approach with a pallet is the safest way to do it, which is the angle I was speaking from.

      Next safest way is from an angle using one fork and a chain. One can balance stuff on a single fork, but not too safe or secure. Using a chan to lift your item works ok and is pretty safe.  Works best with a hole torched into the end area of the fork you are using. The hole is to either secure the chain so it wont slide, or to bolt a lift ring to, to hook the chain to. Another way is to make a metal sleeve to silde onto the end of a fork with a couple of rings welded to it. One to hook the lift chain to and another to hook a second chain to from the loader head frame, to keep the sleeve from sliding off the fork.

      Got to pay close attention to the weight on the one fork and turning, and load heighth.  Easier to flip a tractor over lifting a unbalanced  load in a turn than one might think.

      Drove  forklifts and fork  loaders for almost 30 years now......

      Edited by SmilinSam
    • gwiseman

      Report ·

      Posted


      On ‎8‎/‎21‎/‎2020 at 1:10 PM, Talntedmrgreen said:

      I agree!  Prior to my forklift days I used an overhead electric hoist, along my attachment shelves.  It was not ideal, but worked really well.  I would roll the trolley on large barndoor rails to align with the needed attachment and extend the cable out.  I used retired implements belts to wrap around the attachment, and then connect to the hook to the belt.  I would then run in the cable and guide the attachment by hand as it pulled toward the edge of the shelf and upward.  There was a moment of 'swinging' free of the shelf, and then I rolled the trolley to the end of the track, jsut beyond my shelving where there was plenty of room to lower it to the ground and approch with a tractor.

       

      On ‎8‎/‎21‎/‎2020 at 1:32 PM, SmilinSam said:

      Doubt it .....the way the shelves sit on the left wall. Not enough room to turn to face the shelving and be able to lift clear of hitting anything. Thats whats nice about the forklift attachment....straight up and down with no swing outward. Now if the shelves were on the back wall for a straight run into them, then it would work AoK.

       

      On ‎8‎/‎21‎/‎2020 at 2:34 PM, Talntedmrgreen said:

      I think you’d be surprised! I put my stuff on pallets so I have to hit it fairly straight, but items that are not on pallets don’t require a straight on approach anyway.  I wiggle my Legacy through some pretty tight spots in my garage to scoop things up. You got to go slow and sometimes things need to be moved out of the way, but it sure beats trying to wrestle something down by hand. Maybe sometime I’ll video it, and if it’s not too embarrassing, I’ll share… &:)

      I lifted everything up by engine hoist that is going to hit the road soon. Forklift would be great but of course those are hard to come by - especially in MO. But, I have been using the legacy loader, not the most desirable, but it works. Think I'll get a set of forks built to use in place of the bucket (cheaper than a forklift attachment I hope @SmilinSam @Talntedmrgreen  Thanks for encouragement. Like any addict - that's what I need....

    • Talntedmrgreen

      Report ·

      Posted


      I think you’d be surprised! I put my stuff on pallets so I have to hit it fairly straight, but items that are not on pallets don’t require a straight on approach anyway.  I wiggle my Legacy through some pretty tight spots in my garage to scoop things up. You got to go slow and sometimes things need to be moved out of the way, but it sure beats trying to wrestle something down by hand. Maybe sometime I’ll video it, and if it’s not too embarrassing, I’ll share… &:)

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