Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

  • Announcements

    • Kent

      Sign In or Password Problems?   10/09/2016

      If you can't Sign In, you need to reset your password.  Use the Forgot Your Password link at the bottom of the Sign In screen, and the site will send you an email to reset it. If you have an AOL email account, use the Contact Us link at the bottom of the screen -- AOL is intermittently blocking email from the site.
    • Kent

      Feedback Please!   10/28/2017

      See News and Announcements forum.

Sams Shop Talk

Sign in to follow this  
  • entries
  • comments
  • views

About this blog

 Just sharing my little corner  of  lifes  experience and viewpoints on this tractor hobby. Hopefully these little tid bits will help someone out sooner or later.

Entries in this blog


Many in here have bought and used the China made replacement carburetors off Ebay for Kohler single cylinder K series engines . Most of us who use these for replacements on a regular basis have come to understand that quality control  where they are made is not the best.  The rule seems to be that about one out of three or four carbs you get is going to be no good for one reason or another. On the last bad one I had  the throttle shaft butterfly would bind up against the carb body throat. If you buy from a well established Ebay seller, they are aware that a certain percentage are no good. You contact your seller, tell the it does not work and why, and they just send you another. My experience anyhow thus far. No big deal, other than some waiting for another carb.

What is a big deal though, is that on all these China made K series carbs that I am aware of  is that the choke shaft control plates are all installed backwards. The plates should have the cable holes pointing towards the air cleaner. On the China made carbs, the cable holes are pointing towards the engine block. What this means is that if you can get the cable hooked up, "on will be off " and "off will be on" in relation to the tractor cable operation on the tractor. Here is the proper fix to this problem....

First you have to remove the shaft from the carb. To do this you need to remove the 2 butterfly screws. As far as I can see that factory does not use a thread locker to secure the screws, which helps in this operation. You need a phillips screwdriver that is  properly sized to fit the screw heads.. Too small and it will slip and ruin the screw head, too big and it wont bite well enough...and again ruin the screw head Use the correct screwdriver because you only have the one chance to get the screw out without creating more problems. While turning, and turning real slow, you have to put a good amount of pressure downward onto the screw head.  You have to be able to "feel" whether the give in the turning action is from the driver slipping or the screw breaking free.  Breaking free will result in a quick short "pop" feeling. If you damage the screw head, well , I don't have any advice on how to proceed from there.....so don't ruin the screw head.

Once the screws are out and the butterfly is removed, its time to slide the shaft out. Before doing this, set the carb flat  on a table with the engine block side down so you are looking down onto the choke shaft. reason for this is that on the left side of the carb were the shaft is supported, there is a tiny little detent ball and spring that will fall out. Even sitting like this the ball may roll out as you slide the shaft out. Be prepared to catch it. If it falls onto the floor, your chances of finding it are slim to none. This I know first hand to be true.....

Take the choke shaft and get yourself  a small punch that fits in the center half of the flared end of the shaft on the control plate side. 



 Stick the open end of the shaft into a vise  and close the vise down against the shaft, but not tight, so that the control plate is resting on the top of both jaws of the vise. (The above picture is after I have already repositioned the plate, but you will drop the assembly in the vise  like this and use a punch that is smaller than the outside diameter of the flared end of the shaft.)

Using the punch and a hammer, drive the shaft out of the control plate. This will let the flared part of the shaft be force straight up without losing any of the metal. That metal will have to be there to be peened back down once you reposition the control plate.

Your shaft should be like this now..


You see the flat sides of the shaft clearly.  The flat sides of the plate are not so flat, but they are there. What you do now is just flip the plate over so it faces the other direction and fits on the shafts flat sides. There is a bent over thump lip on the shaft. It will have to be cut back so it does not hit the side of the carb. I don't cut them completely flush. I leave a little lip there. for stiffness in the plate.


Once the plate is flipped, you can use a small ball pein hammer to peen the end of the shaft tightly over the plate. You will have to set the opposite end of the shaft on a anvil or other firm surface. Do not hit it super hard as you are going to flare he opposite end of the shaft as it is. Once the peening is done, you will likely have to file the edges of the open end of the shaft a little to remove any swells, this so the shaft will be able to slide through the carb body. Check and file , re-check and file as need. Wipe the shaft clean after each filing.

You will have to again lay the carb with the block side of the body down and the air filter side up. Make sure the little spring is in the hole it goes in on the laft side of the carb. Get a tiny flat blade screwdriver that is magnetized and get the little metal detent ball on the end of the screwdriver , then hold the ball in the hole against the spring while you slide the shaft back in. You should be able to get the shaft to go over the ball/spring as it goes through. Rotate he shaft to the proper position . Ball should snap into the detent slot in the shaft as the business end of the control plate points towards the air filter side of the carb. Then just re-attach the butterfly plate so it sits as it did before it was removed. I used blue loctite when tightening them down. 

Not a horribly hard operation. Just a bit tedious when trying to get the butterfly screws out without stripping the heads. 



I am writing this, not because of a tractor I have bought in particular, though I could write a book full of examples of this idea. Rather I am writing because of  recent "repairs" that  I made to a tractor.

A few days ago I was mowing with my 03 Prestige, a tractor I bought with a dead Kohler 23 which I repowered with a 20hp vanguard. Everything was going along just great when all of a sudden I started hearing some loud clanking and banging.  Fearing the worst, being internal engine problems,  I ran it quickly back to the shop and parked it.  Finished mowing with another tractor till I had time to hunt down the problem.

Well, I got back to the Prestige a few days later and began pulling the deck and checking things out.  Did not find any problems with the deck or belts, no troubles with the transmission drive line, idlers or anything in that area.  Clutch seemed ok, nothing out of sorts there. Opened the hood and looked down onto the engine and found the problem straight away. There under the flywheel screen was the large flanged flywheel nut laying loose on top of the flywheel. Thought to myself, "well, no internal engine problems, but I bet the flywheel magnets are shot as probably is the stator and charging system".  Not so much  from a doom & gloom mentality, but from previous experiences..

I then began pulling the engine shrouding off to get to the flywheel.  While the flywheel did not appear to be loose, it did just lift up off the crankshaft with only a little effort. When I flipped it over to look at the magnets something fell off onto the floor. Thought  probably a magnet or  one of the cooling vanes.  Looked it over and no magnets missing , loose, or banged up. No cooling vanes missing, Stator did not appear to be damaged in any way. Huh?... Looked around on the floor for the piece that fell out.  Found it...." well this aint good!"  Looked at the crankshaft around the half moon flywheel key....  Yep  ..a large chunk of the crankshaft had broken out with one side of the half moon keyway.wah

After the initial despair wore off, I got on the phone with  my son Stephen about working over another potential engine sitting here.  Amidst the conversation , got to thinking, that we could just put the broken chunk  of crankshaft back in place with the key and tighten down the flywheel. Its a tapered fitting so it should compress down and hold it all in place. This given that the break was a wedge shaped piece and the break was pretty clean it should work. Stephen suggested a light coat of JB weld on the broken surfaces, so I did that. Put the flywheel back on and used the permanent bond  "green" loctite on the threads liberally and torqued it all down & let dry good till the next day.  Got nothing to loose by trying this, and don't care if it wont come apart again. Not going to be fixing this engine again anyhow. Just trying to buy more usage time. Fired it up yesterday and mowed with it for an hour with no problems. So far so gooddOd We will just have to see how many more hours we bought with that last ditch repair job.

Think about the above the next time you go to buy a used tractor. While a lot of last ditch repair jobs are readily visible( welded up differentials, wheels welded to hubs,  steering wheels welded to shafts,  and so on and so forth), other repairs like the above just are not able to bee seen. Tends to make one a little more cautious  about laying out  larger amounts of $$$ for tractors that you don't have a verified history of. That's why when I go to consignment auctions to buy  garden tractors, I have a rule.... to pay only parts tractor prices  for the tractors that show up there. That way the only surprises are when the tractor actually turns out to be a good one.

You never know what you are going to really get in a used tractor.....



I recently had the transmission serviced on one of my two prestige tractors. I paid my son to do this in his shop as I was busy with other things and did not want to monkey with it. That tractor had 600 plus hours on it and was beginning to whine  alot at startup and was acting a bit sluggish compared to normal.  Other than that it was operating normally.  With the irregularities and hours on the machine I figured it was time to  service it and  perhaps a few others I have here in use. I am doing the second Prestige myself and sharing the experience here with you.

I chose to buy the Tuff Torq Brand oil.  The capacity listed for the Prestige transmission is listed at just under 2 jugs.


Once drained and refilled, I found that the reality is that I ended up using just under a jug in each tractor.  The difference is probably because the oil in the lines, hoses, cylinders and steering valve dont end up draining out of the system when you drain the transmission.

For Prestige (and Conquest) you will  need  one of the tuff torq cylinder type filters. that goes into the lower front of the transmission., and a o-ring for the cap that holds that filter in.  For the Prestige you will also need a spin on oil filter that goes  up under the seat deck at the back of the transmission.



So, heres where I started, the front of the transmission. First step was to blow and clean off all the debris under the tractor and on top of the transmission. Loose dirt is a killer if it gets into the transmission.


I started with removing the plugs on the bottom of the transmission letting the oil drain out into a pan. To the left of the plastic plug there is one plug...


To the back of the transmission there is a second drain plug..


Following that I removed the plastic plug at the front. Just use a ratchet with the square end of an extension.


There is a spring on the end of the filter, and you can grab that and pull it out. This one is pretty dirty.


Once out and oil wiped off the edges and surfaces, I re-installed the plugs at the bottom of the transmission. Then installed the new Tuff Torq cylinder filter


Pulled the old o-ring off the plastic cap , then installed the new o-ring...


Then screwed the plastic cap back in place. I di not get carried away with torqing it on either. Snugged it up enough to compress the o-ring.

Then  I turned to the spin on filter under the seat deck.


Pretty tight in there , but found a filter wrench like this useful.


With this wrecnh I can get ahold of the filter on a slight angle and squeeze into the filter enough to get it grip and to turn to break free. Then just spin off by hand. Prepare for some oil spillage as you have to tip the filter to get it out and around the hose in the picture.  Then just get the new Briggs numbered filter  out...


I filled it halfway up with new oil, lubed the rubber seal up with a bead of fresh oil, and screwed it in place. I have a yellow paint marker that I write the hours on the filter with so I know when it was changed last. As you can see in the picture of the old filter in position above.

Once that is all done , pop the plastic access cap off from in front of the tractor seat and you will find the expansion tank for the transmission there.


Pop off the little rubber cap and get a long funnel and begin filling the transmission with oil.  I filled the expansion tank about a third full several times, letting it slowly drain down into the transmission  between fills. Di this until no more was draining  out of the expansion tank into the transmission.  You can look from the side above the tire to see the oil level in the tank. Helps to wipe the tank clean so you can see better. Will need a good flashlight for this. 


Once it stops draing into the transmission, I started the tractor up and drove it around a bit, working the powers sterring back and forth, running it forward and revers, and working the hydraulic lift up and down. After that I filled the expansion tank to where there is about 1" of fluid in it  with the tractor off.


This tractor was having some stiff steering problems before the oil/filter change. Its working alot better now. That and the transmission is alot quieter and smoother in operation. Going to tackle the conquest next...



My wheel painting method

While it is always best to remove a tire from the rim to blast and repaint, I find that many rims are in good enough shape to just clean up and brighten with a new coat of paint. If the tires are good, heres how I do the masking and painting without removing the tires.


Get a a roll of duck tape. Get the good stuff , not a cheepie with half the stickum on it.. The start with your index finger and push the leading corner up under the rim with the sticky to the tire. Push the sticky down against the tire, but just the width of your finger of tape.  Then just continue around the wheel  with two fingers holding the tape down and the index poking the leading edge down under and against the rim.


When you get around to where you started and get done it will look like this....


I usually have the top of the spray can down  just in the  taped circle and spray short bursts as I go around. Usually put the wheel up on a old garbage can turned upside down with cardboard under the wheel. This so I can easily walk around it as I paint.  Always keep moving as you spray as runs are easy to create painting this close to the part. Get done with one side, peel the tape off, turn over and tape up the other side. If you do get overspray on the tire by chance, just have a rag handy thats wetted with paint thinner and wipe it off before it dries.

You can also stand the tire up and paint with the can vertical, just turning the wheel as you go.

If you use the lay the tire down and paint method, you can also use a piece of carboard  in your off hand outside the tap to help shield the tire from overspray. At least till you get the hang of it.

I usually give the wheels  3-4 light coats, then let dry for a few days before reinstalling on the tractor

Sign in to follow this