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Johns

7117 surges forward: have to ease back on hydro

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Johns
Hi,All...I have a problem with my 7117 that I hope someone can help me with: After running the tractor for half-hour or so, then making a sharp turn, the tractor takes off!! It's like I floored it and then have to ease back on the hydro to slow down! Once this starts to happen, I have to keep playing with the hydro lever to attempt to keep the speed of the tractor consistent. Could this be due to low trans fluid?? When I attempted to check the tranny fluid level, I opened the release (on the axle, if I recall, correctly), and the fluid spewed out of the pipe in which you add it (the unit was still hot). So, 1). how do I check the transmission fluid level?, 2). how do I add tranny fluid, 3). could something else be causing this surging? Thanks...it's been a beautiful spring here in CT.

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Dutch
Before you do anything else, make sure your BGB and frame plate bolts aren't loose permitting tractor to flex. 1) If you're not sure it's okay, replace the hydro filter with OEM. Don't use any other kind of filter that just happens to fit. 2) Check fluid and bleed air as per manual. 3) Check belt and idler for tension and slippage. Replace if necessary with OEM. 4) Check and all external linkage for binding or worn parts. Lubricate all linkage joints. Check and lubricate roller on hydro valve. 5) Adjust linkage as per manual. Follow procedure exactly. 6) Check for spring on hydro control (spring is often missing). 7) If problem still persists, perform pressure check.

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TimJr
Here are a few more helpful hints on the later style hydro like yours. Make sure the control linkage is CLEAN. Only lube it with a spray type penetrating oil - grease or lithium can tend to gather too much dust and chaff, especially where the spring is on the rod that is in the cage - sorry for the poor description. The roller mentioned before is also prone to sticking and also to getting a flat spot in it if it was stuck - that is on the swashplate control lever itself. Some of the later Sovereigns were prone to having the control lever at the dash wear out - usually associated with erratic creeping or speed control problems. After the pivot passes through the frame, the shaft has a "double D" cut into it for the lever between the framerails to engage on. This double D can wear and get sloppy. Quick fix - weld it after getting as close to center as you can. Better fix - squeeze the female double D of the lever so it fits tighter onto the control levers shaft - the new levers aren't real cheap. Double check your trans idler pulley arm pivot - they tend to get sticky - if you push on the clutch pedal, it may not return all the way - people tend to not use the clutch on these for easier cranking when starting, then when someone does, the pedal sticks. Hope it helps.

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a7117puller
all you have to do is readjust the one bolt thats inline behind your shockspring, and the rollerthingy, should keep it from creeping forward or backwards if done right...i got one that creeps forward, and one that creeps backwards, lol. oh, feel free to oil anything too.

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Johns
Thanks, alot, guys. I'll check everything out this weekend. I do have a quart+ of the Simplicity hydro oil as well as the correct filter. I'll probably replace those while I'm at it. Now, how do I bleed the system? And, do I check the fluid level when the tranny's cold? How about adding fluid: do I wait until it's cold? I know when I checked the fluid and popped open the pressure release valve the hot fluid came running out the input pipe....what's up with that? You can't add fluid unless you pop the release valve....to let the air out, I suppose.

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