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JBucketman

3212H differential help

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JBucketman
Guys, I used my fully restored Sovereign for the first time to cut the grass today. I am hooked on Simplicity. WHAT A GREAT CUT!!! I have a minor problen though. I am ripping the beutifully cut grass around corners. I jacked up the rear end and the differential seems to be locked. Did this model have limited slip positraction? If it did is there an adjustment to unlock it? Thanks for any help in advance, John

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Kent
The 3212, if stock, should have a nylon sleeve that it used as its traction control. Look on the end of the right rear axle hub, where it sticks through the center of the wheel. You should see two small bolts that function as set screws. Loosen them, then re-torque to 25 ft lbs. See if that solves it. If not, it is likely a problem inside the differential itself. If it doesn't have the two set screws, that indicates that someone has replaced the differential at some point.

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Kent
John, It sounds like it might have been over-tightened, so that the axle can't slip when it should. The correct torque is 25 ft. lbs., to make it work as designed. You could run with less torque without hurting anything, but you lose the "posi-traction" functionality that's there to aid traction. If this doesn't solve the problem, it's something internal to the differential itself... BTW, based on discussions I see on Garden Web and elsewhere, it sounds like the Johnny Bucket business is booming for you. Congratulations! Kent

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JBucketman
Kent, Thanks, and yes, Johnny Buckets have had record sales the past couple of months. Not bad for a slow economy. We also have a JBSR and JBJR solution for the Legacy, the 620/720, Power Max large frame types and the 94 and up Landlord. We need to get them listed on the web site when we get a breather. I tried loosening the bolts you are talking about but it didn't seem to make a difference. They weren't that tight to start with, so I will have to give re-tightening a try. Thanks, John

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Kent
John, The 25 ft lbs of torque is the "slip point" on the nylon sleeve in there. You might try removing the bolts entirely while you have it up on a jackstand, and see if you can get the right wheel to move without moving the left one -- it should slip, without the setscrews in there. That should tell you if it is a problem with the sleeve/setscrews in the hub or internal to the differential itself. This is about the limit of my personal experience -- I've never opened up a differential, so I can't help you there.

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RenegadeJ
Some differentials had solid spacers and some had coil springs for spacers. If one or more of the springs is broken this could cause the gears to slide to the other side which would cause a locked differential. Sounds to me like you are gonna have to take the differential apart. They are not that complicated one you get into it. Just watch how it comes apart.

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HubbardRA
If the axle gear that is keyed to the left wheel is allowed to move to the right, it will intersect both right and left side spyder gears and lock the axle. This can be due to a slippage of the collar on the left side of the tractor that holds the axle in position. Try raising the wheels off the ground, then tapping the axle in the center of the right wheel with a small hammer and a wooden block. After tapping the axle inward,check to see if there is clearance between the axle collar on the left side of the rear. If so loosten the set screws and remove the clearance. This should re-position the axle gears to the proper position. Tf this doesn't help, then there is an internal problem.

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JBucketman
Guys, I found the problem and fixed it. Rod had the closest explanation to the problem. While restoring this tractor, I found all kinds of problems that were caused by the last owner trying to fix them. This was the case as well. I took apart the differential and found that the axle tube gear was turned around so the offset of the gear was meshing with both sets of spider gears and locking up the differential. Turned it around and all is well in differentialville. This screw up would be a good method if somebody wanted to convert this tractor into a puller. Thanks again for your help, John

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HubbardRA
John, The reason I gave you the explanation above is that I used a setup just as you found inside your diff on my 61 Wards puller several years back, before I finally converted to the late model limited slip type

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callwill
I am fixing the diff on my B110. I had fractured the keys that bind the inner gear to the center drive axel. On partial reassembly i found that i now have a locked diff do to the spacing described in this topic. Before i disassemble i want to know if i can completely remove the center shaft/axle without anything else falling apart on me?

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thedaddycat
If you have the differential apart and the gear off the axle shaft, you should be able to remove the axle out the left side without doing anything else as far as disassembly.

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thedaddycat
Yep, you don't even need the carrier taken off the axle tube, just the gear on the end of the axle shaft. The final drive gear inside the tranny is keyed to the axle tube, as is the differential carrier. With the outboard half of the differential removed and the gear off the axle shaft, it should slide right out. You don't even need to take the wheel off, but make sure the jack stands are under the axle TUBE. Here's a pic of the 2012 project sitting in the garage. You see that the carrier is in place, while I have the axle shaft slid out a ways. While this is just a bare shaft, you could easily have the hub and collar on it. OOOPPPPSSS...... Sorry, but I just noticed you're talking about a hydro, this is a three speed gear tranny. I'm not sure if the hydros are set up the same, since I have not worked on either of mine yet...

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callwill
no, you got it right, my B110 is a 3 speed. I do have a 3212H that i did a Diff gear change on a while back. i also have a 3112V that i just don't like & plan to sell or trade for another hydro tractor.

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