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Stoneheartfarm

B110/B210 Steering gear boxes FYI

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Stoneheartfarm
I bought a B110 stearing gear box off eBay for use on my 210. There were some slight differences, so I laid both out and took a pic. The 110 gear is on the left and the 210 gear is on the right. The two are different in the size of the quadrant gear, and in the shape (and length) of the steering arm. All other parts appear to be swappable, and I was able to use my old arm and quadrant without problem. Steve

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Kent
Steve, Good tips. I tried using the smaller quadrant off an older tractor on my B-210, and it won't work -- in tight turns, it will jump the teeth at each end of the quadrant. I need to break down, order new parts and rebuild the one on my B-210 soon...

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HubbardRA
It appears from the picture that the smaller quadrant mates to a longer arm, giving a faster turning rate with less overall steering wheel motion. The larger quadrant with the shorter arm should give less effort to turn, but take more turns of the wheel. I would not try the small quadrant with the short arm or you will probably rotate the shaft gear off the edge of the quadrant. I would think the quadrant and the arm must remain as a pair to produce proper operation.

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Stoneheartfarm
Rod, That actually makes pretty good sense. I was lucky that my quadrant was in pretty good shape (compared to the yoke which had teeth that were proverbial "toast".) I used my quadrant and arm and the new box and yoke. Seems to have tightened up the steering considerably. Wonder what would happen with the longer arm and wider quadrant? Kent, I had a similar problem with mine last year. Have you tried adjusting the eccentric bolt on the yoke? It's kind of a job, but it did help quite a bit. Took a little off the turning radius though. Either Dutch or Maynard posted the instructions for the proceedure.

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Kent
My quadrant is simply worn out in the center. If I adjust the eccentric to get rid of the slop in the center, it binds when turned either direction. If I adjust it on the ends, it's sloppy in the middle. Plus the bushing on the pinion gear is worn out. That gear, with bushing, alone is a $56 part as I recall... It's right at $100 to rebuild it with a new quadrant, pinion, bushing and bearings.... That's why mine is still sloppy!

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Nick
That explains why after I rebolted the steering wheel shaft to the steering gear it wouldn't turn the wheels. It has to be shot. I removed the tie rod, and the front wheels were able to be turned manually. It could be something else though. I haven't even gotten to that part of the tractor yet, as I have been cleaning all of the spider webs and gunk out of the cooling fins on the engine. Plus, I have been doing tons of other things besides working on the tractor.

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HubbardRA
Steve, The combination of the long arm and the larger quadrant should make no real difference. The steering gear will never get to the edge of the quadrant because of front axle linkages hitting stops. I would guess that the large gear could be used as a direct replacement for the small one, but not the reverse.

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Stoneheartfarm
quote:
Originally posted by Kent
My quadrant is simply worn out in the center. If I adjust the eccentric to get rid of the slop in the center, it binds when turned either direction. If I adjust it on the ends, it's sloppy in the middle. Plus the bushing on the pinion gear is worn out. That gear, with bushing, alone is a $56 part as I recall... It's right at $100 to rebuild it with a new quadrant, pinion, bushing and bearings.... That's why mine is still sloppy!
My problem was strictly in the pinion (yoke). The teeth were pretty well gnawed by rust. I still have the narrow pinion and longer arm combination if you want to give it a try. Steve

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