Questions on switching to electronic ignition

[Nick]

I would like to switch over from points and condenser to electronic ignition. It got me thinking because I have read some stories in this board of some members acquiring a tractor that did not run right after it was switch over to electronic ignition. Since I have to change the coil anyway (it's very rusted, pulling apart, and the wires were all chewed) do I need to buy the same type of coil, or do I need a Magnetron coil to replace the old one?

[BLT]

If you get a Magnetron unit the flywheel has to be re-polarized. As long as you have to get a new armature anyway this might be an option. A Briggs dealer will have to help you out. You can go with a powered coil, points and condensor as another option . I haven't done this yet and other people have. And lastly go with an original armature and then get an electronic trigger unit. You'll get all kinds of help about that.

[KSever]

Sent my flywheel in myself without going through a dealer. I just had to pay for postage to B&S and they sent it back well packed. Worked out great. Here is the address and directions to B&S that is posted on SimpleTractors.com Kris The Menomenee Falls location below is where to send your flywheel for re-polarization or re-magnetization service. Turn around is generally the same day. You pay for shipping to them, and they do the service free and cover the return shipping. Include a letter in the box stating what you want done (re-polarize or re-magnatize) and include your normal business letter info. Make sure the box is sturdy and well packaged to prevent damage. It is recommended to insure it for full replacement cost value. You can contact them for any further information at: Briggs & Stratton Corporation P.O. Box 702 Milwaukee, WI 53201 (414) 259-5333 (NOTE: not toll free) Briggs & Stratton Corporation Menomonee Falls Distribution Center W148N9121 Patrita Drive Menomonee Falls, WI 53051

[Spencyg]

You should also take a look at converting to a 12V automotive coil and utilizing your points and condenser. I did this on my tractor and it is absolutly fabulous. Starting is instantaneous, and the spark is very strong. I had to adjust the points back to a 0.012" gap to get a smooth idle, but I just figure this is part of the game. I just know that when you don't have to rely on the flywheel velocity to produce the spark the starting will be much improved. Spence

[HubbardRA]

I agree with you Spence. I converted a 10 Hp B/S to a battery powered ignition using a Kohler coil over 15 years ago. Still running same points and condenser. Mag was dead at the time, and to save money and time I did the conversion. I'm currently putting together a 13 Hp B/S. I'm going to try the mag, but if it doesn't work then I will go with battery powered set-up. All of my engines run fine with .020 point gap. both Kohler and B/S. I like battery ignition because everything is external and quick to fix if something dies. Also, the slower the engine turns, the more spark you have.

[stumpy]

I would concur with you gentlemen. A battery coil is the way to go, unless you're trying for an exact restoration. Heck...I was gone about five months during the recent international difficulty. Came home, sprayed a little oil in the jug and pulled it through twice (just to make the cylinder walls happy), fresh gas and lit the fire in my B-112. Kicked off with about one spin...and I feel pretty durn sure that a lot of that easy starting can be attributed to the old Ford pick-up coil currently mounted on the tractor. I wouldn't hesitate to convert another machine.

[powerking_one]

My concerns for converting to battery ignition, keeping points & condenser vs going with the electronic/Magnetron system (I assume we are talking about cast iron Briggs singles here) would be: 1. Replacement points & condenser go for almost $30 now. As with any aging product, the price is sure to go higher or even obsolete? 2. The pushrod/plunger boot tends to tear and leak oil into the points box, thus fouling the points; hence another replacement/maintenance item. 3. Timing adjustment was intended via moving the coil(armature) and not by changing the point gap. The marks to do so are on the flywheel aluminum magnet boss and coil mount. 4. Going to battery ignition means no more ability to optionally rope start the motor via the pulley on BGB if the battery is dead. 5. Real estate for mounting a 12V coil can be tight, especially on an earlier "Big Ten" style tractor. It shouldn't be mounted above the head due to heat. Counter-pointing, Tom (PK)

[HubbardRA]

Tom, I rope start mine(with the battery ignition), even when the battery will not turn the engine. Battery has to be extremely low for ignition not to fire. Point burning has not been a problem with mine. I use a Kohler coil instead of an automotive coil, since the Kohler has an internal ballast resistor. Without a ballast resistor, point life is relatively short. I've had the same points on my 243431 B/S with battery ignition for 15 years and not replaced them. It starts great every time. I also have the coil mounted on the head and haven't had any problems.