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cruddy fuel system

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Last weekend, on my maiden tilling trip, my big ten wouldn't run except at full choke idle. Advice from club members led me to tearing the carb off the beast for a cleaning. Nothing was visibly dirty. Reassembled and reinstalled, the darn thing didn't run any better. The local small engine shop had the kit, which I picked up today. Again the carb came off along with the line and tank. (I'm getting real good at this) Tank was full of rust flakes and line was partly clogged. Heading for the parts store to see if they carry a sealer to coat the inside of the tank while the carb rests in the can of cleaner. I did find that a few well aimed ajustments from a BFH on the drive belt guide cured the problem of the clutch not disengaging the belt enough. I was afraid that I would snap something irreplacable in the trannie grinding it into gear.

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May be a little late to tell you know, but you can loosen and adjust that drive belt guide... :D You need to remove all the rust scales from the gas tank before even thinking of treating it. Put some old bolts & nuts, sharp-edged gravel, etc., in it and shake the heck out of it. If you have another running tractor, strap the gas tank with these things in it onto a rear wheel and go mow the yard or something. This tumbling will clean all the scale out. Then you can get it treated at a motorcycle shop with Kreem, or take it to a radiator shop and boil it out and seal it. I haven't had any luck getting anyone to sell me the chemicals to coat one -- though I haven't tried POR. Finally, knock the original screen out of the outlet hole, and use an aftermarket clear filter instead, so you can catch any remaining gunk coming out of the tank, see the dirty filter, and replace it when needed. You may want to consider putting one of those plastic in-line fuel shutoff valves in the gas line while you're at it. Two out of three of my Briggs carbs drip, and this is the easiest way to solve that problem.... Good luck with it!

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