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GregB

Riveting Sicklebar Sections

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GregB
A couple of questions: What tools do you use to rivet sections to the bar? Can they be purchased? Does anyone use an under size diameter rivet successfully? The local suppliers have only fractional size diameters. Would anyone be interested in correct diameter rivets? The parts list for the mower calls out a # 6 dia x 1/2 inch section rivet. I have found a supplier for a Oval head # 6 x 9/16 inch section rivet. I would have to buy a minimum quantity, I would then be able to supply others who needed them. I am a little concerned about the additional length, I guess they could be shortened if needed. GregB

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Tuffy
I use a chisel to whack off the head of the rivits, then a rivit punch (concave head inside) to hammer and roll the rivit head into form & place. I am sure there are rivits of the right spec out there. Steve

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HubbardRA
I used 1/4 inch rivets, and turned them all down in a lathe. I guess I am a glutton for punishment. I put the heads on the rivets with a ball-peen hammer.

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Dutch
I've rebuilt several of the Haban sickles. I just chuck the bar in a vise, grind the heads off the old rivets and punch them out. The sickle tools I've seen seem to be for doing field repairs on the larger sickles. I just place the new rivets (proper size 1/2") on an anvil and whack them flat with a hammer. The proper rivets should be relatively inexpensive. Try your local John Deere dealer if you want to buy them individually. Unlike the 2" blades and rock guards (expensive), rivets are relatively cheap, even in boxes of 100, 500, % 1000.

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HubbardRA
Don't make the mistake that I did. I bought the closest size that TSC had (1/4" diameter), drilled the holes in the bar slightly larger to that size, then discovered that the cutter teeth could not be drilled. I used a lathe to turn down the part of the rivets that goes through the cutter tooth to make up for my mistake.

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MN_FISH
I don't know what the sickle looks like or the cutter bar. When we get something with rivets we switch them over to bolts. You have to have enough clearance under the bar and guards so it doesn't knock the bolt head off. On top you might need new holddowns or you might get by with bending them up a little. 7/16 wrench and get it timed right with the guards and nothing to it to replace a section! If you hit something and break a bolt knock it out with a punch and replace the bolt. Simple fix in the field. On the head end you will need longer bolts. When we change them we use an airratchet. Lots of sections and bolts on a 30' and 25' combine header. It should be worth checking out or somebody knows if the bolts will work? I forgot to mention they are special bolts for sickles! Most places that sell sickles and mower & combine header parts should have them.

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