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7018 Welding rod

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MPH
Got my hands on some 7018 rod for my spring tooth last sunday, tried it out today, Sooo whats the trick to holding an arc with it once you get one struck?? Ain't no pro, but I don't have any trouble with 7014, 6013 or 6011 that is old rod I got with the welder..Thanks for any tips..MPH

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dieselman
I hope your trying to weld 7018 with a reverse polarity welder. 7014, 6013, 6011 are all straight polarity rods. 7018 is a reverse polarity rod and will not work with a straight polarity welder. Some arc welders you can switch to reverse polarity. For welding spring steel I have heard that super rod works good. It has more nickel than other rods and you cant cut it with a cutting torch. I've used it on cast and it works good.

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StanD
Airgas distributes 7018 designed for AC welders. If the steel is clean they work super. Personally I use mostly 1/8 rods. They also seem to require 10-20 amp higher setting than like a 6011 StanD

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dieselman
StanD You can buy 7014, 6013 and about all other rods in different sizes. I have some real thin 7014 for welding thin metal and larger rod for new metal. I use 1/8" 6013 the best for penetrating rust and paint i can lay a nice bead horizontally and vertically with 6013 but 7014 likes to drop. Also I'm guessing that the 7018 that you described for AC welder is still reverse polarity because all 7018 is. you can tell what a rod is by the numbers 70 represents tensile strength in 1000 pounds. so 7014 is 70,000 LBS. and 6011 is 60,000 LBS. the 1 in 7014 and so on represents all position welding a 2 represents if i remember right horizontal, flat, and vertical and a 3 i think is just flat. and the last has to do with the flux coating on the rod and i don't know what the different numbers on that mean. hope that helps.

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iweld
It takes much practice and good open circuit voltage to "light" a 7018 rod and keep it lit. You can't just "lay it down" and go like 7014. Practice on some scraps first. I'm not sure the polarity has that much to do with it, but to change polarity just swap the stinger for the ground. Try starting the fresh rod by brushing it lightly across the workpiece, and when it starts to arc raise it away about a half inch for the count of two, then put it to work. You can't "shove this rod in to the work, it will just stick and go out and whiz you off. 1/8" rod takes about 120 amps to keep a good arc. Also take note of the rod burning back into the flux coating, pinch this off when you go to start the next weld, otherwise you will end up banging the rod to the work and then it will stick fast when it does make contact. Whizzing you off again.}:)

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dieselman
the 7018 rod is usless to you with that old of welder. I would try finding some super rod. Airgass sells it under a diffrent name. It is $10 a pound but tougher than steal

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MPH
Dan, under the trap rests a 14hp Gilson, sold as a Wards. Got it couple years ago, main interest was the starter/gen. After I got it home and messed with got a good running 14hp briggs and working Hydrostat tranny. Hate to tear up a working tractor that all I can use is the engine off of, which I haven't come up with a need for yet, so it sits and waits, like most my toys since last July when I went to workin outta town...'minds me, time to head back...See ya all...MPH

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HubbardRA
I tried 7018 rods on my "buzz box" and they wouldn't hold an arc. A friend then gave me some "7018 AC" rods and they welded great. My normal rods are 6013 and 7014, with some occasional NiRod or stainless.

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JoeJ
Marty Although they say AC/DC most standard 7018 won't run on an AC buzz box. And if that is an AC welder, swapin the leads over does nothing. As the fellas said, there are 7018 made just for AC. [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/uploaded/JoeJ/joej_sig2.gif[/img]

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