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KSever

amp meter jumping

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KSever
Got the Landlord running tonight, and in fact it started on the first crank of the starter/generator. Didn't even have to readjust the carb after rebuilding it. Got the adjustments from Cleanbee and they were right on. 1 1/2 truns out on the highspeed and 3/4 turn on the idle. Question I have is my amp meter is jumping all over the gauge. All the wiring is new and wired by the diagram found on Simpletractors of the B-10. Any idea what could be the problem?

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Dutch
quote:
Originally posted by KSever
All the wiring is new and wired by the diagram found on Simpletractors of the B-10. Any idea what could be the problem?
Don't know what diagram you used, but the one in the Simplicity manual is INCORRECT. Could also be a short, or the regulator may be sticking. Does the ammeter jump from - to +, or just jump on the + side?

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KSever
Thanks Dutch, Yes it does jump all the way from - to +. Could you look at this diagram and tell me if it is right because this is how I wired according to this diagram. The only different thing I did on my wiring was run the wire from the amp meter to the + side of the battery instead of from the amp meter to the start switch which I didn't see any difference. [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/images/wiring/lighting.jpg[/url]

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BLT
My 7010 has a jumping ammeter and I would guess the contacts on mine are sticking contacts. I have been ignoring it the last five years as my battery is always up to snuff and spins my engine over. For me it is at high speeds as it settles down about mid throttle speed.

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KSever
I just noticed a wire on the bottom picture in that diagram that connects to the mounting bolt on the regulator over to the mount on the starter. That wire is really hard to see in the picture but it runs right off the regulator mounting bolt. Which is not on the top diagram and which is not on my tractor either. Do I need that ground connecting them two together (starter/generator and regulator)?

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CleanBee
Hi Kris, Best I recall the diagrams you linked is correct, and no it makes no difference on your connection directly to the battery. Let me know if you would like me to bring my meters to the meet up north. I can set up the voltage, current and circuit breaker relay adjustments in your regulator. It is probably out of adjustment and/or dirty contacts. I will clean them also. It might also be a bad Amp meter, I have seen this on early models (without inline fuses) if the amp meter gets to high of currents by accident. I know the proper way to set these regulators up and can do it in about 5 minutes. Here are a few tips and notes if you want to try. Set up an inline shunt and amp meter and a separate voltage meter. Facing the regulators relays with connecting tabs on top; the left relay is for voltage, center is for current, right is cut out or circuit breaker relay. Warm the coils up to operating temperatures prior to adjusting by running with about an 8 amp draw for a few minutes; this can be done by first drawing battery down by cranking or by operating lights. Do not crank for to long to heat up the starter and cause damage. Do not close the circuit breaker relay contacts, (far right contact) with out the motor running, this will blow your fuse or fry wiring on the early models without an inline fuse. It will want to try and start the tractor. Be careful when cleaning contacts so this doesn’t happen. The voltage differs (rises) by about .6 volts if the regulators cover is off due to it not being in a magnetically isolated area. Adjust circuit breaker relay to close its contacts when VDC generator output is just above 12.8 (approx battery voltage for older worn battery), usually occurs just above idle. Next, adjust voltage regulator relay with engine at about 3/4 full RPM. Set to about 14.5 volts. Take readings with and with out an additional load. Slow motor down to open circuit breaker and idle up again to recheck and adjust. Remember the cover changes readings. Also, do not short cover on circuit breaker while removing. I did this once. A defective battery will invalidate voltage readings. Adjust current with voltage regulator contacts held closed momentarily with your finger. This is the same as having the GEN lead connected to the Batt lead. Adjust to maximum 10 amps. You may need to drain battery some or run lights to obtain a charge current requiring your maximum reading. Hope this helps. It is late, heck, I hope it is right. LOL Used to doing these things not writing about them. Drop me an email if you want me to bring my meters up north.

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Roy
The ground bonding wire is needed to ensure the regulator frame is grounded to the tractor, battery, & starter/generator since the regulator is "hung" from rubber mounts for vibration protection. I would make sure the bonding wire is installed. A poor ground anywhere in the system can cause problems. My 2 cents.

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KSever
Dan, I tinkered a little today with the idle on this tractor to slow it down to a better idle speed. Seemed like it was a little high, after slowing it down to a slower rpm the gauge stopped bouncing and stayed from a range of 0 - +2 on the amp gauge. Seemed to be working right until I speeded up the engine just above idle then started bouncing again. After rereading your post above I would like to try and set this regulator up to see if I can do it?B) The only part I didn't understand in the above post was this Question: what are you talking about when you say set up an (inline shunt and amp meter)? I did buy another amp meter today (before I adjusted the idle) and am going to replace the old even if it isn't bad just for the new chrome:D

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CleanBee
Hi Kris, A seperate inline shunt is part of most high Amp Meters. Other lower amp meters have this built into them. Basically, it is a set resistance metal that you hook in line with what you would like to measure. The meter actually measures the voltage drop accross the metal and the meters face converts that voltage to a current reading via I=V/R. Time passed so quickly at the show...I was really hoping to do it there for you. Let me know if you would like me to still do it or you have any other questions. BTW, these are still grounded trough the two right mounting bolts onto the chassis through them. Your tractor has fresh and heavier than stock paint so it might be a good idea to do as Roy said and ground it from an unpainted metal to unpained metal via the wire like it was stock.

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DaleC
I grew up with Farmall tractors with generators. The amp meters on them jumped as well. The only time they did not is when the battery was down and a charge was being put into the battery. Both my B12 and Big Ten act the same. When I run the lights, the amp meter does not jump because of the added load. The jumping is just back and forth from + to - and not a big swing at all. It looks more like a vibration. I have just assumed that this was normal operation. DaleC

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KSever
This was an easier fix than I thought it was going to be. Bought a new Amp gauge to try first and waalaa no more jumping. I now have a amp draw of about 4-6 amps right after I start the tractor then settles down to about 2-4 amps. Found another problem in the works after I hit the wrench on the frame while tightening the positive cable on the battery. The ground terminal was just about to go bad from rust inside the terminal, luckily it did this when I made contact from postive to ground. After I made contact from the postive to ground the tractor wouldn't start, this is how I found the ground connector to be bad.

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