Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
ikipp

Thinking of repainting tractors

Recommended Posts

Tom_Byrne
MY TWO CENTS: Imiron paint used to be real popular for painting large trucks because it is tough and you generally don't need to wax. My buddy's dad used to just wash his truck with Zip Wax and years later it still shined like new. THE DOWNSIDE: They fumes are VERY bad for you. A lot of guys around here won't use it anymore because of that. Different bodymen ended up with lung diseases supposedly from Imiron, including an old friend of mine who used to specialise in Imiron paint jobs. Get lots of info before you use it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
UCD
You need a very Good respirator to spray Imron paint. The other down side is the Drying fumes are worse than the fumes from spraying. When the paint is drying stay away and when it is dry open up the area to let air circulate and walk away for about 30 min. the fume build up from the drying process can KILL you. The end result is worth the extra precautions to insure your health

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mowerman1193
Yes, I would not mess with Emron,it is very dangerous and very toxic...I dont think you would like the cost of the paint and activators that have to go with it anyway...I bet it would be cheaper to have it powder coated and probably about as durable of a finish...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RayS
I would also agree that you would have to be set upright to use this paint it is very toxic. A friend of my that has a bodyshop says it is the only paint that he knows of that still has lead in it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
poolshark
i painted for 20+ years, used to spray imron every day for years, unless your experienced and spray often imron is hard to use, deltron is much more user friendly, and basically the same thing, both are polyurethane single stage paint, if you want the top show paint, try diamont basecoat/clearcoat system, not much more money, and much more chip proof, and fuel, oil, and grease proof, personally i recently bought a gallon of rodda equipment enamel, 25.00 for my big ten, you dont need to spend the big bucks for tractor paint materials, most guys are just rattle can painting them, any quality paint and materials will be at a minimum of 300.00 +++ just my 2 cents hope it helped some

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gotmilk007
I will second the recommendations of Poolshark. I also have been painting for years. I do like the durability of Imron, but paint technology has come so far in the past 20 years it simply isn't necessary to breathe that stuff in. My nervous system shuts down when I get a wiff of Imron now (I'm cooked). Deltron(PPG) is one of my favorites. If you are really hooked on bullet proof protection try POR-15 coatings. They ARE tough!!! Keep in mind that proper prep is the key to POR products.Approx $30.00 Qt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jlasater
Typical masks aren't rated for use with isocyanates. You really need a pressurized system that pulls air from outside the building to the mask. Filters, even one's rated for isocyanates just don't last long before the filter is shot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • Hick
    • MARK (LI)
    • ShaunE
    • Chris89
  • Today's Birthdays

    1. 9934059
      9934059
      (71 years old)
  • Recent Status Updates

    • jbrooks

      jbrooks  »  Talntedmrgreen

      Josh
       
      folowing  this from a link at the downloads.  I just rescued an AC 920 with the lambodini diesel. I can' t download  yet .  Where did you find the PDF copy you posted. . I would like to figure out how to adjust the injection pump. 
      I assume it's a bosche, correct
      · 0 replies
    • dav-1

      dav-1  »  Talntedmrgreen

        Over a year ago, you answered a question I had about the tool bar for my FDT. In your reply dated Dec 31, 2019  you said the spacer, part #16, goes in the bar to allow for up and down depth adjustment. does this mean the bolt has to be tightened at whatever depth desired or does the bolt slide up and down, allowing the lower hitch to free float?
         If it is tightened so the lower hitch and the bar are rigid, then is the depth to be controlled by the shoes? Or by the lift handle?
        Is there any kind of user directions for the tool bar? The Outdoor Power Manual basically shows how to assemble the bar but not how to use it
      · 1 reply
  • Adverts

×