300421 Won't Start - Update

[MadMike]

Well it is definitely no spark. Turned the engine over with my finger on the spark plug hole and had my finger blown off, somewhat suprising, so I have compression. Sprayed starter fluid in the hole, quickly put the plug back in and still won't start, did get to see vapor blowing out of the exhaust though. Also noticed that after cranking for a while gas oozing from around the throttle shaft, not good. I guess there's no getting around it now, plan to pull the engine, check to see that my armature is mounted correctly, look for rust on the flywheel magnets, and order parts for the carb. Is it possible to mount the armature backward? From the photo's that I can reference, it appears that the spark lead should be to the rear of the tractor. Also, has anyone ever had a grounding problem with mounting the armature points lead to the mounting screw as shown in the manuals? Thanks again for everyones help, MadMike

[RayS]

Hi mike make sure you got a good ground on that module that you put on it before you pull the motor out of it. when I first put the module on mine I didn`t have a good ground and it gave me problems. My armature on my tractors are mounted with the spark plug wire coming out of the left side of the coil(sitting on the tractor seat looking forward it would be on left side not standing in front looking to the rear of the tractor). Ray

[MadMike]

Ray, Left side. Good. Of course to check that I have to do you know what. The more I think about your advice from yesterday regarding rust on the flywheel magnets, I just don't know if there was or not. Taking apart the front half to get the engine out is really not that bad, a few hours or so. Heck, who needs sleep anyway. As far as a ground, I wire wheeled the inside of my blower cover and JB welded a nut to it, form the outside just to the right of the Carb. I would think this should give me an adequate ground. The directions that came with the module said that it needed to be mounted where it would get good air flow. I had intended to mount it under the points cover, but that would give no airflow. If a armature were mounted reversed, would it still produce a spark? As usual, Thanks! MadMike

[RayS]

I have take the shrouds off engines just to clean them out and have seen the armature mounted both ways and the engines still ran fine. The coils that I have replaced, I always have put them on as described in the first post because if it was put on opposite of that it would not reach the spark plug if you went through the hole that is provided for the plug wire. Ray

[MadMike]

Ray, That would make sense, I imagine that's the way I have done it as the plug wire does reach the plug through the cover access. Thanks, Mike

[samson]

I had the same exasperating problem, It all boiled down to the set screw that holds the points at the correct gap was lose and it grounded the ignition out. If you are not using the original points, it still sounds like its grounded out some where, like that wire that goes to the points from the ignition key. Is that wire unhooked?

[Bunky]

I don't know I have talked to a bunch of people on these point replacers.. Some say they work others say they won't.. I bought 2. 1)Green one from NAPA... wouldn't work.. 1) metal one want to Say a NOVA maybe ... wouldn't work either... Tried grounding, switching wires, Still no luck....

[HubbardRA]

I use points, condenser and a Kohler coil. Always works.

[MadMike]

samson, The key wire now ties into the new ignition module, basically you have the three wires from your armature, one ground, one spark plug lead, and the third to the module. The third to the module is also where the key switch ties in. This is how the wiring diagram explains it that came with the module. Incedently, this module can also be bought form Jacks Small Engines, it is listed as their universal ignition module. Basically I almost in agreement with Bunky, I'm getting rid of this and going back to points and condensor or I'm going to convert to a 12 volt automotive coil. Thanks again for all of your advice, MadMike

[HubbardRA]

Mike, If you convert to an automotive coil, you will need to add a ballast resistor in the circuit or you will not get long point life. A Kohler coil has a built-in ballast.