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UGH! snapped a bolt off in the BGB


Nick

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Well, after member MDB enlightened me on how to take the drive flange off the drive shaft, Which came off easier then I thought, I went to take out the bolts that hold the frame to the BGB. I got the top right bolt loosened, and then tried to loosen the top left bolt, I thought I had it loose, and then I heard snap. I broke the head off.:(! Now I guess I'll be using a screw extractor on that bolt, unless any you guys have any ideas of taking it out, the two bottom bolts are pretty rusty on the sides, due to all the leaves that turned to dirt from sitting. I guess with those bolts I'll file the six sides down, heat it up with a propane torch, spray it with WD-40, and then put a 5/8 socket on it to try to get it loose. Just hope it doesn't happen again.
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Try using a penetrating oil such as PB Blaster. This stuff comes in a yellow spray can and works great. WD 40 isn't that good for your'e problem. PB Blaster works really well. I have bought it at my local Napa dealer.
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Old trick I posted once before: Spray the bolt, lightly tap several times with a hammer, spray again, and let it sit. Repeat a few times. Generally works for me.
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quote:
Originally posted by Dadsy98
Accept no substitutes! Ask for it by name! [img]/club2/attach/dadsy98/PBCatalyst.gif[/img]
It's the only thing that I will use, I buy it by the case at the local NAPA store.8D^
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Good luck with the broken bolt. Be careful not to bust off the easy out, they can't be drilled very easy. Take your time to get the drilled hole centered and go as large as you can.
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I totally agree with you Short, I've used them both, and the PB blaster works really well, but Kroil is by far the best. Dave
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Try using a six point socket instead of the usual twelve point. You'll have a lot lower chance of rounding off the corners....
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I will try to get the hole drilled on center, and I will try to use the biggest extractor I can. I picked up a 5 pack at Home Depot yesterday. So I should have the right size. I need to get some PB Blaster. I have something very similar called UM penetrant it's about 25 years old. I had picked up a full can at a local auction house at one of their yard sales, which the sell their non auction worthy items for 25¢. It was made by Ultramotive Corp., some where in New Jersey. I heard they aren't in business anymore. BTW, what is Kroil? I never heard of it before.
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I found that easy-outs work best if you can use the largest one that will fit, and don't pound it in super hard. If you do that, it flairs out what's left of the bolt, and grips the thread walls just that much tighter. Was pulling a broken exhaust manifold bolt off a John Deere 40c crawler. Was really worried about breaking the easy-out. Once I removed it, and then tapped it back in with less force, the bolt came right out.
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Kroil is an industrial type penetrating oil. It is advertised in most maintenance & repair trade magazines. I got mine from the local Motion Industries store (industrial supply house for bearings, etc.). They may have a web site. Give it a try.
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Found their website. It does list the stores in different states. [url]http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mi/index.jsp[/url]
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Well, I noticed last night I might not need to use an easy out any the bolt. If I got the two bottom bolts out without breaking them, (I can't get the socket on the bolt heads straight enough to get a good grip) I could just use vice grip pliers to grip on to the bolt shaft once it's disconnected from the frame. Thanks for the Kroil info. I located a Motion Industries store in New Jersey. I don't plan on heading there anytime soon, but I will keep that location in mind.
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There is a Motion Industries I deal with locally. They can get you just about any bearing you may need also. Didn't know they sold Kroil though. Used it years ago, great stuff. "The Oil that Creeps".:D
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If you have enough bolt sticking out after removing the box, I would try the vice grip. Apply penetrating oil first, give the bolt a few sharp raps with a hammer, then try the vice grip. If it still doesn't come loose, place a 1/2" nut over the bolt and weld the nut solidly to the bolt. Let it cool. The combination of penetrating oil, rapping on the bolt, and the heat from welding will almost always loosen a stubborn bolt. Pat
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Kroil is made by Kano Laboratories. Their web site is "KANOlaboratories.com". Kano is located in Nashville, Tennessee. Their phone number is 877-862-6755. You can order direct with this phone number
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quote:
Originally posted by Tom_Byrne
There is a Motion Industries I deal with locally. They can get you just about any bearing you may need also. Didn't know they sold Kroil though. Used it years ago, great stuff. "The Oil that Creeps".:D
I swear I have seen the Motion Industries in Whippany before.
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Thanks Roy
quote:
Originally posted by Roy
Kroil is made by Kano Laboratories. Their web site is "KANOlaboratories.com". Kano is located in Nashville, Tennessee. Their phone number is 877-862-6755. You can order direct with this phone number
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I have had the best of luck on getting busted bolts out, by drilling the center of the broken one in graduated steps using the smallest drill first to make sure I have center then skipping a size and move on up until the best fit for the largest easy out possible. sometimes a dremmel tool is needed to make a flat spot for the initial drill bit to start out. Sometimes a cutting torch gingerly warming the center of the bolt and a pair of vise grips on the threads to twist it on out works well too.
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