Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Charlieson

Grinding gears on 3212v

Recommended Posts

Charlieson
I replaced the rearend in my 3212v. I thought that I had all of the adjustments on the varispeed stuff acording to the specs. Now when ever I try to switch gears she grinds like crazy and doesnt want to go in. I check the rearend grease and it looks pretty cloudy, so I am going to change it, but I dont think that will fix my problem. Any suggestions? ddh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DaleC
Make sure that the tension on the drive belt is adjusted correctly. The belt guards need to be in place and adjusted correctly also. This allows the belt to "loosen" on the drive pulley and not cause it to turn when the clutch pedal is depressed. The tranny is trying to turn. That is what is causing the problem with the shifting of the transmission.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
callwill
I have had the same problem with my 3112V. It is a touchy interrelated series of adjustments between the belt guards & the belt "pincher". I have found that moving the vari to slow has helped immensly, but that ain't how it oughta work... there is a post with PICS of a tractor with a tranny pulley brake that is clutch/brake actuated-a small brake pad mounted on some additional linkage actually slows/stops that pulley so tranny action stops for shifting. he claims it works great & bought it that way... see post titled VariDrive by RAYH this forum currently on page 8...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thedaddycat
The belt "pincher" is called the belt stop. Its purpose is to stop the belt from moving when the clutch/brake pedal is depressed. You get the grinding when the belt(and tranny input shaft) keeps turning. Since these are not syncronized gearsets(straight cut gears), they need to be stopped to change gears. I kow I've posted pics of the tranny internals, a search should yield good results... Here's a pic of the "rear pulley brake" that came on the B-112 I bought a while ago. You can see the chain and spring(silver) and where the brake pad rubs the rear pulley's fixed section(dark band around outer edge of pulley). When the pedal is depressed, the chain pulls on the spring, causing the "brake" to rotate on the vertical pivot and press the pad against the rear pulley.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
callwill
Well now that looks alot simpler than the one i had pointed out in my previous post- that will be alot easier to copy. What did you use for brake pad material & where did you get it? How about a closeup PIC? Some pointers on copying it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ChrisACB-112
Wow! Ihave the same problem in my b-112. The belt isn't turning, rather the big pulley on the tranny seems to freewheel very long after the clutch/brake is depressed. Like other's have said, shifting in low speed is a really good idea. However, I'd really like to copy daddy cat's brake. Ditto for the close-up, brake material and pointers! Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kent
Chris, If the belt stops moving and the tranny pulley is still spinning, that means you need to adjust the brake. The brake should stop the tranny pulley from spinning, while the belt stop on the wide front idler should pinch the belt just enough to stop the belt from moving.... Kent
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • GregB
    • fisherman1122
    • CarlH
    • s_stephen
  • Today's Birthdays

    No users celebrating today
  • Recent Status Updates

    • jbrooks

      jbrooks  »  Talntedmrgreen

      Josh
       
      folowing  this from a link at the downloads.  I just rescued an AC 920 with the lambodini diesel. I can' t download  yet .  Where did you find the PDF copy you posted. . I would like to figure out how to adjust the injection pump. 
      I assume it's a bosche, correct
      · 0 replies
    • dav-1

      dav-1  »  Talntedmrgreen

        Over a year ago, you answered a question I had about the tool bar for my FDT. In your reply dated Dec 31, 2019  you said the spacer, part #16, goes in the bar to allow for up and down depth adjustment. does this mean the bolt has to be tightened at whatever depth desired or does the bolt slide up and down, allowing the lower hitch to free float?
         If it is tightened so the lower hitch and the bar are rigid, then is the depth to be controlled by the shoes? Or by the lift handle?
        Is there any kind of user directions for the tool bar? The Outdoor Power Manual basically shows how to assemble the bar but not how to use it
      · 1 reply
  • Adverts

×