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pofarm

Broadmoor pivot won't

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pofarm
As I posted earlier in my post "Need part for Broadmoor" ( http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=19023 ), the right plate that connects the tranny housing to the pivot shaft is broken. I got the rear end pulled this afternoon and found out why. The pivot shaft is frozen in place. It wouldn't pivot at all. After spending over an hour heating it, beating on the end of it and twisting on it with a big wrench, I finally got it to move ever so slightly. Has anyone else had this experience? If so, how did you get the shaft freed up?

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gregc
When I got my Broadmoor 738 the pivot shaft was frozen on it also. I put Liquid Wrench on it and let it set for a while. Then I hooked the front end of the tractor to a post with a cable and picked up the rear end and started trying to twist it back and forth. Finally got it to move a little. More Liquid Wrench, more waiting, then more twisting. Kept working at it this way until I finally got it apart. After getting it apart I sanded and polished the shaft and used a sanding drum in a drill to sand the tube. Works great now.

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BLT
Brute force is about the only answer. That is why your plate cracked as it didn't pivot. Maybe by chance you can get plate re-welded and if you do, don't foget that there is a grease zerk down there that needs annual attention. Keep your pivot greased and you won't crack the plate.

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Chris727
I used to have a B-207 that wouldn't pivot, spent at least 15 hours trying to get it to twist, tried all kinds of things, penetrating oil, hooked each end to a truck and pulled but did nothing. I ended up stripping it down and taking the frame with the frozen pivot pin still in it to the metal scrap. It was the most frustrating tractor I ever owned. I also have two more pivoting frame tractors that work great, a 727 broadmoor and a Homesteader8. I never tried liquid wrench. I guess I should have had more patience. -Chris

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tractormike
The 728 I restored came to me with "broadmoor disease". It had sat outside for several years and the pivot was rusted solid. I worked an entire saturday to strip the tractor down and loosen up the pivot. I used an oxy-acetelyne torch with a large rosebud tip on it and worked for over 2 1/2 hours heating and hammering and spraying penetrating oil on the pivot. I had the area heated up enough that I thought it was going to melt down but it was still quite a struggle to break that much rust free. After I got everything cleaned up and free again I used what they call never-seize on the shaft. Never-seize is like a grease but the parts coated with it are not supposed to rust togther. I guess time will tell.

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Al
hi, we have seen quite a few of these. we usually remove the battery and take the fork lift and hang the tractor from the front bumper. Then take the torch to it and use about a ten pound sledge on the plate. The weight of the transaxle helps the process. Some come easy and some are unbelieveable. Lesson 1 keep them greased after they are freed up. Usually we take a piece of rod in an electric drill and slot the end so we can roll some sandpaper on it and polish the inside out. Good luck, Al Eden

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andy gartner
Well Pofarm, We're getting closer to resolution of the mystery. Downloaded the Manual for your mfg no.1690090. It says, "System 3008 Front Engine Rider" which explains why it's not in the Broadmoor 1964-1976 Parts Big Book/Cross Reference Book. But you're correct, it looks like many B-moor parts will fit. Never Seize is a great product, we used to use it at the race track and shop when remounting engine bolts and spark plugs in the early '70's. You can mix it w/other stuff to make up your own brew for various situations. But caution, may effect eg. bolt torque settings.

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Drigon
Hello, the correct work is to be used a puller. spray they you parts one day before well. fasten they the puller into both holes in frame, and press them with the spindle on the rusty wave. they can heat the outer part up additionally with a gasflamme fast. Attention do not strike! the wave is damaged and cannot not separate. [img]http://www.mx-racing.de/motorradwerkzeug/media/srp2100.gif[/img]

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pofarm
Andy, When you type in the serial number in the search on the tech publications site, the page that opens says,"ENGLISH OPERATOR'S MANUAL - Broadmoor 3008 8HP Tractor, 36" Mower Deck ". That is what clued me in that it is a Broadmoor. The pivot was frozen when I got this mower and the plate already broken and welded.It has broken twice more in the year I have owned it. I didn't know until recently (thanks to you all) that it was supposed to pivot. I will keep working on it and when (if) I get it freed up, you can bet I'll keep it greased!!! If I have to, I'll tear it down to the bare frame and take it to work with me. I have access to a press and acetaline torch there. I have also given some thought about making it a rigid frame tractor. That will be a last resort, though. Thanks for all the replies. At least I know that I'm not alone in this matter.

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andy gartner
Pofarm, I stand corrected (see your other forum). It is, in the B-moor repair manual link Gregc left! You've got great advise above. Once you get it loose, just lube it. I have 2 Broadmoors-in 20 years use-never had this problem. I lube and oil and grease before every 3 hour cut. I don't wait for 25 hours as manual suggests. A

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pofarm
I got the pivot shaft out and cleaned it and the tube up. It was quite the adventure, but one that I don't want to take again! After soaking it in chemical penetrant for a couple of days, and beating and twisting it, without much success, I might add, I ended up cutting the cross member completely out so I could get at it with a sledge hammer. After I got everything cleaned up, I just welded the crossmember back in. I also welded the plate up again. I think it will hold up now that the pivot is working. I have the tractor almost all back together, but I ran out of steam. Getting home at 7am from work and going right at it for another 8 hrs does that to a person, especially in this 95 degree, 65% humidity weather. LOL Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm glad you got to learn of another Broadmoor and got the link to the repair manual, Andy.

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