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Parts for Simplicity 990805 Snow Thrower

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I could use some help locating some parts to restore an Allis Chalmers Tracker-8 Snow Thrower (or Snow Blower or snowblower or snowthrower, if you like) P/N 1600262 (8 hp, 28"). The equivalent Simplicity P/N is 990805. Other Simplicity throwers that use the same Drive group as this one are 2 stage 7hp models 990373, 990430 and 990560. I need a 21 tooth worm gear Simplicity p/n 161067 and a bushing for a 7/8" shaft p/n 158337. So long as I'm asking for the moon I could use the drive case gasket p/n 118024. I think the gear is NLA. Any sugestions on places I could contact that might have some NOS or bone piles? So many of these drive units seem to be functionally equivalent, perhaps I could even replace the whole rotor drive unit. The worm drive shaft is 7/8" and the Auger drive shaft is 1". See the following link for the operators manual and parts listing for the ROTOR DRIVE GROUP (Page 13) [url]http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_100_3685_00_XX_S.pdf[/url] I hope someone can set me on a course to success. Also, was this the correct forum to post in or should I have put it elsewhere?

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UCD
Harry Welcome to the club I moved this to talking tractors I think your best bet is to find one for parts I have seen some on ebay that went cheap.

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Dutch
The gear may be the same as that used in a Rotocul. Read this post > http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17981

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Lowcarb
:D LOL. This is one of them (a cheap one off eBay)! Too funny! The engine is good. All the belts need to be replaced. Somehow in it's past the bushing on the worm drive shaft wasn't there. This allowed excessive play in the shaft to grind up the worm gear. How the bushing got lost is a mystery I'd like to know the answer to. The oil seal behind it looks like the original (orange paint on it at least ). So I don't know how it gets lost unless it fractured and fell out. That seems unlikely though. Thanks for moving the post and for your suggestion :)

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UCD
Kent has an Allis Chalmers that is the equivelent or close to yours that he wanted to sell.

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Lowcarb
I saw the pictures of Kent's machine. His is already in working condition. No sense in taking a good one apart to fix a bad one.

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Dutch
The #161067 2.968" OD worm gear is actually #1610-67 (a funky Simplicity number) (AC #72026809). It should be superceded by #1612141 which is still available @ $49.62. The #158337 .877" ID bushing is actually #1583-37 (AC #72026802), superceded by #1667099 still available @ $10.65. Same with the #1180-24 gasket. Still available as #118024 @ $.86. Check back with your dealer, and ask him to check his catalog closely. Don't forget to let us know how you make out.

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Lowcarb
Thanks Dutch. You are a fountain of information. Did you design the darn thing? We found the 1610-67 part in his computer and it was listed as NLA. There was no superceeding part listed by his computer. How did you find this? I left out the dashes in the old Simplicity pn's because that is the way my dealer enters them in his computer terminal. The only part I was able to get from him my first go around was the worm shaft oil seal, 1181-17. The seal was in place with original paint on it but compleatly worn out BUT the bushing that should have been on the inside of it was gone! How could that have happened? I wanted the auger shaft oil seals also (1181-18 in my parts listing) but what he found under that pn was a bearing. Maybe he needs a new computer! Mine still look OK but I figured why not change them now while it is all apart. The trailing edges on the impeller 1610-11 are worn thin. Is it worth while or even possible (available) to replace that while it is disassembled? I don't have a welder to try and build up the metal I will comeback after I've searched for the parts. Also, so long as you ar being so helpful can you straighten me out on up-to-date pn's for belts? My parts listing says the belts are BELT-V 1610-98 and BELT-V 1743-23 or 1650352 (was hand written in). Thanks a heap.

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UCD
Harry Here are your belt #'s Allis Chalmers MFG# 1600262 Tracker, 8HP 1973 Drive Belt# 1650352 length 61" Type 3/8 Rotor Belt# 161098 length 39.1" Type HA

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Lowcarb
Thanks UCD. Now that you showed me the way I figured out how to use those belt pages. I started checking on this project while I was on vacation in Ohio. The dealer I checked in with, in Chagrin Falls, OH had a big parts department and computer terminals for looking stuff up. All he could tell me about the gear is NLA. We must have looked at exploded diagrams of 6-12 different models hoping to find a cross ref to a new pn but we didn't. [update 7/26]Come to think of it maybe we were looking for the worm and not the worm gear. I can't be sure. Anyway now in one day Dutch gives me hope of finding a part. I called my local dealer and just for fun gave him the old pn and in 45 seconds he is telling me the new superceeded pn that is the same as the one Dutch supplied. I just ordered the Gear, bushing and gasket. My dealer wants a few bucks more for the gear than Dutch listed but a few cents less for the gasket :) . I should have them in a week Thanks for your help.

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UCD
Harry The parts info that Dutch and I have is a little over a year old but not that far off. I would take a chance and say The people on this site have more info and Knowledge than MOST dealers. People here can tell you info that you can't get from Simplicity as most of the younger people there don't know and don't know where to find it.

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andy gartner
The excellent dealer in Chagrin falls, Ohio has been selling Simplicity tractors for 40 years; right up until Simplicity pulled a BMW on them, and said they had to have more floor planning, more $$ in tractors on floor. Four dealers in Cleveland, faced w/similar prospects, no longer sell Simplicity, just John Deere, Honda and other brands.

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Lowcarb
OK, The parts are in. Now some questions on Lubrication The worm drive case just gets filled with engine oil (10w30). Do I have to pack the bearings with grease when reassembling or are they lubricated by the oil? The auger shaft is supported by needle bearings on either side. The oil level in the housing does come up has high as the shaft (at least partially). The drive shaft is supported by a bushing where it enters the case and a ball bearing at the end of the case. The ball bearing is well above the oil level in the housing though I suspect that the worm gear will splash a lot of oil its way.

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Lowcarb
I asked a mechanic at the Simplicity dealership when I picked up my parts today. He couldn't believe that the owners manual said to use 10W30 in the auger drive case. He said that all snow throwers now require 90 weight gear oil and he thought that I should be using that. He even went so far as to suggest that the manual might be a misprint. So, cast your vote, voice your opinion, 90 or 10W30 or something else.

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Roy
A worm gear needs oil with extreme pressure additives due to the wiping action between the worm and pinion. I would use Mobile 1 gear oil which is rated GL5. My 2 cents.

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Lowcarb
So, I've got the old parts cleaned up. Roy has voiced his opinion on lubrication (Thanks Roy). Now how do I seat that .877" ID bushing into the case? It slides smoothly down the auger drive shaft but is a snug fit into the gear case. Should I get a piece of 7/8" ID pipe, slide it over the drive shaft and use it to drive the bushing in? Is there a better way? I don't want to screw it up at this point. Thanks, Harry

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UCD
tap it in useing a drive tool like a piece of pipe and you should not have any problem.

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ReedS
A socket will do in a pinch for a drive tool as long as it isn't a nice new snap-on (this is where I use my taiwan specials). If you use some kind of soft faced hammer (lead,plastic or brass)it won't damage the socket as much. You can also use an extension in the socket if it is a hard to reach spot. The big trick is to keep the bushing square to the bore while driving it in. Of course the proper tool for the job, in this case, a bushing driver, would be preferred to the socket or the afore-mentioned pipe. just my 2c

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Lowcarb
Thanks for the idea about using a socket ReedS. I'll keep it in mind for another time. I couldn't use it this time because I wanted to seat the bushing with the drive shaft in place. I don't have a socket with an 18" depth.;) I found a piece of closet clothing rod that was just the right ID and was plenty long enough. I probably could have saved myself $8 and just cut a piece off this pipe and used it as the bushing but who knows if it would fit or wear as well as the proper part. Thanks for your confirmation that this probably would work UCD. Now that I've seen the real part I think I know how the bushing came to be missing (my nagging question on how this unit came to fail in the first place). Since it is a split sleeve bushing all that was required was for heat, wear and time to create a crack on the opposite side of the bushing. Now it would be in two pieces and could easily (now that it has been worn some) drop out and fall off the shaft. There was enough wear around the rear oil seal that the bushing could have slid through there. If that is what happened the previous owner might not have noticed it being lost. It probably got noisy and vibrated more and more, started leaking oil through the rear oil seal and then one day there was enough movement in the shaft and enough wear of the gear that the worm bit into it and that was the end. Before seating bushing. [img]http://www.frontiernet.net/~nobel/Pictures/Auger-Gear.JPG[/img]

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