RodStayner Posted July 28, 2003 Posted July 28, 2003 My 4040 electrical system looks like it has been cobbled up. Someone added a big kill switch (which is disconnected), rewired, taped, and who knows what else! Here's the problem: The ammeter is not showing a charge. I checked the fuse and it is okay. Voltage at the battery is 12 volts while running. I followed the PowrMax repair manual, and the biggest concern I have is that my voltage regulator is only showing 3 terminals instead of 4 like the diagram on page 2-13 is showing. The top termial is connected to the ammeter (12 v to ground while running) , while the 2nd (16 volts to ground) and 3rd (12 volts) go underneath to what I think is the alternator. Nothing appears to go back to the battery anywhere (like the book shows the 4th terminal doing). Nothing is shorted to ground that I find with my Fluke meter either. Am I right in thinking that the voltage regulator is not the right one? This explains why the previous owner had to put a brand new battery in it! Thanks-- Rod
JP Posted July 28, 2003 Posted July 28, 2003 A Lot of guys are switching over to the 'Radio Shack' version, where it's a regulator/rectifier. Cost being the biggest reason. Also access, the reg/rec on the ccka is behind the flywheel (pain in the kiester). The big question is AC output from the stator (They're NLA!) although you can get them rewound & make it a 'Kohler style' system. JP
RodStayner Posted August 2, 2003 Author Posted August 2, 2003 8/2/03 Update: The problem was with the regulator/rectifier. It had been changed by a previous owner(to a John Deere one) and someone had not hooked it up properly and ruined it. Also, they had rigged up so much of the wiring circuit with a push button starter switch and an "on/off" toggle switch to kill the engine! I put on a new rectifier, an ignition switch (spare one I bought a couple years ago for the Sunstar), and got all the wires straightened out and it works much better. Showing +8 amps in the ammeter with everything running. I plan on changing some of the wiring when I do the engine work. Until then, happy mowing! Rod
MN_FISH Posted August 26, 2003 Posted August 26, 2003 My 720 quit charging:( Seems like there aren't any disconnected or broken wires. What should I look for before digging to deep into it? What is the 'Radio Shack' version? For now I've been charging the battery to mow & vac with it. Does running both front & rear PTO'S for the mower and vac draw too many amps and burn something out? I am planning on selling this 720 after I get it to charge. With a 60" mower deck or just the tractor. Thanks in advance for any help ^ Wayne
JP Posted August 26, 2003 Posted August 26, 2003 Hey Wayne, Unplug the reg & rec, then test with a DIGITAL ohm meter against factory specs. Yes, running both pto's will cause a SIGNIFIGANT draw. That's one of the big reasons why they went to the CCKB & 20 amp system (that was designed to charge at idle...) Hope it helps, JP
fomoco390 Posted August 26, 2003 Posted August 26, 2003 Uh-oh, sounds like I've got an odd regulator too...only 3 terminals. Anyone have a picture of an original regulator? James
MN_FISH Posted September 2, 2003 Posted September 2, 2003 My younger brother started to check on the 720 so I took time to help and we got it to charge :D^ Loose connections on a little black thing ?with 3 wires fastened to the frame so we didn't have to go digging to deep. Had a spare from my parts tractor and didn't need it. Kind of an easy fix once we started on it. Only had to take the belly pan off and start checking with the tester. Now comes the hard part? Which one do I sell? The 9020 :(or the 720:(? Both are great ^tractors but I can only drive one at a time. Now to find time and fix the hydro on the other 720 that only goes in reverse? Soybean harvest is coming soon and need over 300 ^icesaws to ship on 10/1/03 & not many in the shelf yet:( Did everybody else get theirs fixed?
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