Axle & Hub

[Guest]

To All, I take it since no one volunteered to donate an axle and left rear hub for my B-1 I will have buy them. Unfortunately, since the left hub is cracked I cannot use the dozer blade to clear snow. And, since the blade won't fit my Sovereign I guess I'll just have to wait for the weather to warm up an melt the snow.

[tej]

Roy, Why won't the B-1 blade fit the Sovereign, they use the same front axle mount points don't they. Don't the new Sovereigns still use the same mount points as the old B series ACs. Tim

[Guest]

Hi Roy, can you more precise in discribing your problem. Is the hub cracked clear thru?? Or on the inside half or outer half where the axle shaft goes thru it? What is wrong with the axle shaft it self?? Are the keyways wore out or just what is wrong with it? If the hub is not cracked all the way acrossed from one side to the other that should not be a problem. And if the axle shaft is messed up at the keyways that isn't a problem either. May I suggest welding the hub to the axle shaft. Weld the hub where the shaft slides thru at both ends and it should hold at least until you can either buy a new one or find a used one or forever. I have done this on 3 tractors now and have not had one come back and one of them is mine. E-mail me if you have anymore questions or post them on the board. The new hubs for the left side come welded to the axle shaft anyway so its not like that would be a problem as you are doing the same thing. Good Luck->happyjack<-

[Guest]

Regarding the dozer blade: The new Sovereign is longer from the hitch attachment points to the front end of the frame. I can modify the hitch and lift rod to fit by making them longer but have not done so. The frame of the Sovereign extends beyond the front axle. On the B-1 the frame stops just behind the front axle. Regarding welding the hub: My hub is cracked about 120° from the keyway to the second set screw. I broke it while using a puller to remove the hub with the tip off the set screw stuck in the spotface for the screw to seat in. I take it the axle will come out (pull) from the left side if the hub can be welded on and still leave the axle removable. Is this correct? Thanks, Roy

[dlcentral]

Jack, Are you talking about welding a cast iron hub to the steel axle?? If so, what type of welding rod should be used? And, you are correct. The axle and hub are both severley worn. The hub bore is oversize. The axle OD is undersize. The keyways in both parts are beyond help. Roy

[tej]

Hi Roy, yes you are write about the axle pulling out the left side. Infact it will either side but Simplicity found away to save a few $$$ by doing away with your type of hub. I priced a new hub and axle ass. for about $80. to which the hub if found new alone is about $60. I would try to find just the hub ass. used if possible and then weld it on the shaft if the shaft is damage at the keyways which it likely is. I had the same problem with the tip breaking off but decided to just weld it on like the new ones. It was my dealers idea and has saved my tail a few times now. Best of Luck to you->happyjack<-

[dlcentral]

Hi Roy, cast iron is real hard to actually weld. But use a mild rod such as a 6013 rod 3/32-1/8" dia. and set the welder at about 130amps depending on whether you have a ac or dc welder and just run the bead where the two surfaces come in contact with each other. I will e-mail you and take more time to talk about this if you like. Trust me this will work and if you have a welder you can do it. I will try to send the message tuesday sometime or contact me Thanks ->happyjack<-