RickS Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 I just had a large riding ring put in for my daughters horse. As the ring gets used I will need to re-arrange the sand to level the ring out. The size of the ring is 60' by 80'. Even after the sand was compacted with a large excavator, it is still very soft to walk on. What tool would you recommend to keep the area level? And any hints or advice would be appreciated. My currect tractor is a 7012H with a rear lift and sleave hitch. Since I also use this tractor for cutting my lawn, I would rather not uses a grator blade. (Since that would require removing and re-installing the 42" deck.) Or maybe I could use this as a excuse to get another tractor. Thanks in advance for all the hlep and advice. Rick.........
Dutch Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 If you want to use your present tractor without removing the mower, check out the Brinly rear blade or box scraper. Here’s a link to the Brinly website > http://www.brinly.com/landtools.htm [img]http://www.brinly.com/images/landscaping_tools/RearBlade.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.brinly.com/images/landscaping_tools/BoxScraper.jpg[/img] A second tractor is even a better idea for several reasons.;) Then you could use a one of my grader blades (or even two). :D I have them on eBay right now > http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&include=0&userid=netco-nj&sort=3&rows=25&since=-1&rd=1 [img]/club2/attach/dutch/combo.jpg[/img]
Dutch Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 All kidding aside, you may also want to try making a drag mat out of an old bed spring or a piece of chain link fence. If used regularly on loose gravel, they do a very good job. [img]/club2/attach/dutch/mat1.jpg[/img]
RickS Posted August 1, 2003 Author Posted August 1, 2003 Dutch, I have been admiring your blades ever since you starting making them. If I had a second tractor, my next step would be to place an order with you for your blade. In the mean time I like your idea of the chain link fence. thanks........
Dutch Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 quote:Originally posted by RickS Dutch, I have been admiring your blades ever since you starting making them. If I had a second tractor, my next step would be to place an order with you for your blade. Thank you........... quote:Originally posted by RickS In the mean time I like your idea of the chain link fence. Good idea. Try experimenting with some old tires or a railroad tie at diffrent locations on the mat. Sometimes a little additional weight makes a big difference.
stumpy Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 Dutch is dead-on....go with a chunk of chain link fence, particularly if your ground is soft. That's what we use on our roping arena. When things get too compacted from hoof-action I run over it a couple of times with a spike-tooth harrow, then once over again with the chain link to smooth things out.
Guest Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 Fence, ties, harrows will keep it level...if there are depressions that develop they will have to be filled however you decide to do it. I used to help keep a home hockey rink and in the summer it was used for horses. we would hump up the depressions with several wheelbarow loads of sand THEN drag it out to make as level as possible......
snapper1650 Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 You've heard it all here.... all good advice. I use a chain link drag on our roping pen and round pen. I use a cultivator, as well as a disc to keep it broke up. You don't want it compacted. Have fun.......
Guest Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 I have used a chain link drag with good results-(better than a box spring).Dutch,do both of those grader blades raise and lower simultaneously? Can you set one different than the other? I think I could find some good uses for one-especially the belly blade.8D
DanBov Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 This is a drag harrow made for old sears tractors . It works well on my gravel driveway . It will tear up those pesky weeds that grow through the stone .
IronPony Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 Dutch, Do you sell the hitch for the belly grader blade? Dan
Guest Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 Danbov, Can you put down pressure on the harrow or does it float....I would LOVE to have a harrow like that for trail making as opposed to a pull behind..(less snagging) and I bet you can just lift it when crossing the lawn or going down the road (as opposed to dragging). very cool. The harrows work great for ripping up trails which in turn i seed with clover which attracts grouse and deer which i kill and eat which brings me great satisfaction. Both physical and emotional. Dougm
Dutch Posted August 1, 2003 Posted August 1, 2003 quote:Originally posted by howlanddm Dutch, Do you sell the hitch for the belly grader blade? Dan No.... but I include plans for a hitch. As far as I can tell, half of those who have bought a blade make their own hitch. The other half have one built by a welder. I'm told DIY costs for a hitch range from $0 (scrap metal) to $20. Welding shops seem to charge $50-$125. I have a dealer customer who first bought 2 blades, then 10, then another 10, then 25. He is having hitches made, and selling the package for $495. I've sold over 50 blades to members of this club, but have never seen any pictures or feedback posted, except from Kent. Go figure........
DanBov Posted August 2, 2003 Posted August 2, 2003 Yes Doug , I can put down pressure on it . On hard packed areas I start with just scoring the surface . After each pass I lower it deeper into the ground . Any weeds or brush I tear up I just drag it to a spot and raise the harrow to leave it there .
rokon2813 Posted August 2, 2003 Posted August 2, 2003 I dont have one of Dutch's blades but I do have an original from the 60's. From the look of Dutch's withe the opposite edge serrated it is better than original and anyone who gets one will absolutely love it.
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