Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
BigRick

Rusted/Stuck Rims on a 6011

Recommended Posts

BigRick
Hi, I am in the process of rebuilding my 1978 Simplicity 6011 and attachments (mowing deck and snowthrower). This site and it's members have been an invaluable source so far with ideas and inspiration. I have followed your advise on paint choices, part / owner's manuals and part sources and am very happy with my progress on the mechanical aspects. Now for the embarrassing part ... I can not get a rim off of the axle. The left side rear wheel is stuck in place. I have tried soaking the rim/axle overnight with Zep, WD-40 & Marvel Mystery Oil. I tried heat and a pry bar. I am only glad that there is not enough space between the frame and rim for me to resort to my usual heavy-handed techniques! The other three wheels came off with relative ease so I know everything is disassembled. Any advise / suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Rick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom_Byrne
MY TWO CENTS: Try using PB Blaster. Soak between the axle hub and spray around the lug nut area and let it sit for a while. Then take a hammer and some kind of flat pin, and tap around the inside and outside of the wheel where the axle hub is connected. May have to spray and tap a few times but it usually works for me. Good luck and welcome to the Club!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Agricola
I'm not sure of what the situation is but I have been known to beat the front wheels on my pickup against the mounting plate and the rebound sometimes helps them come off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kent
Be careful trying to use brute force to get it off... Another member broke the aluminum casting on the transmission trying to remove one that was rusted on....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jkmustang1
I have a strange thing that has worked in the past. coke pop pour it between the rim and axle the acid in it will eat the rust. My uncle an I have gotten stuck car rims off that way. It may take a day after soaking and a hammer to release them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rokon2813
diet coke seems to have more acid than regular. I've also seen this work on cars

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lsenus
Kent, you are right as usual. I'm the member that broke the trans trying to get the stuck rim off the left axle. See[url]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=10015&SearchTerms=stuck,rim [/url] for the gorry details!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LeoB
I had a similar problem on my B-112 last winter when I had to change the axle tube, it was on the left side as well. I may be wrong and someone here will correct me if I am. There are two bolts that hold the left hub to the axle, you should see them on the inside of the rear wheel. One of these bolts locks the key into the keyway on the axle. The other locks into a divit in the axle. I removed both of those, thinking the wheel should slide right off, it didn't. I checked the bolts and they were both the same length. I tried using a puller and a hammer and any number of things to get the hub off, it just wouldn't come off. It'd move a little, but once it got to a certain point it wouldn't budge anymore. I spent hours trying to figure out why the wheel was locked on. In frustration, I went back and studied the drawings in the manual, I finally realized that that the bolt that goes to the divit in the axle is supposed to be longer than the other. What happened is that the end of the bolt of the bolt that goes into that divit broke off and was wedged in there, preventing the wheel from coming off. The only thing I could figure to do was to drill out the hole slightly oversize until I hit the axle. In the process, I was able to drill out that broken bolt end. Once I got that done, the wheel slipped right off. I then retapped the hole and bought a larger bolt to replace the one that had been there. You'll probably want to grind the end into a blunt point like the original so it'll fit into that divit in the axle. You'll need a jam nut as well to lock the bolt into place. I hope this helps. Leo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
I use Kroil to soak joints such as this. Best penetrating oil I have ever used. Then I remove all fasteners that hold the stubborn wheel on and proceed to drive the machine around the yard, going forward, then backward while making sharp turns both left and right. Just be careful because when it comes loose, the wheel will fall off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
UCD
Rod Better idea and safer. Just loosen up the lug nuts/bolts then when wheel breaks loose it will not fall off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rokon2813
am I mistaken that most of you guys are talking about 5 bolt wheels while the problem is a sinlge hole wheel on a keyed shaft???? Maybe I just got lost somewhere?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LeoB
Maybe I got it wrong, it just sounded exactly like my problem with the left rear and all. We'll have to see when he posts an update I guess.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kent
Dan, I think you've nailed it...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
UCD
quote:
Originally posted by BigRick
Hi, I can not get a rim off of the axle. The left side rear wheel is stuck in place. Rick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Guys, I was talking about the type wheel where the center hub is keyed onto the axle, not the bolt on type. I used this technique on a car with the wheel center being stuck on the axle, by loostening the lug nuts and driving a little. I also used it on a 1947 pickup that had the rear hub keyed onto the axle, and I wanted to remove the hub. Loostened the axle nut and drove around a little. It came loose. Thought it might work on the tractor. I would jack up the left wheel as high as possible and put a few drops of Kroil on the axle each evening. Eventually it will soak through the entire hub and wetness will be seen on the back side. Once the Kroil has soaked completely through, the item will usually come off with a little persuasion. I have used PB Blast and Liquid Wrench and they are nowhere near Kroil in penetration and loostening capabilities.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
UCD
I would heat the axel shaft with heat concentrated on the shaft not the wheel center and when hot put cold water on it.(Do this a few times) All so try putting even pressure on inside of wheel and using a block of hard wood or a brass drift hit the axel with a large hammer You can all so tip the tractor onto its side supporting the tractor with 2 bars behind the tractor wheel one on each side of inside axel shaft. Using the weight of tractor for the pressure pound on axel shaft using a block of hard wood or brass drift. Do not hit the axel directly with a hammer or steel drift as this will mushroom the end of the axel. The combination of the pressure or weight and sharp blows with hammer will usually break it loose.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MPH
Rod, I'll have tosecond you on the Kroil, that some good stuff. Since I don't know the tractor being delt with I'm lost on the situation at hand..MPH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thedaddycat
Rusted/Stuck Rims on a 6011 I'm not sure that the rims on these tractors attach the same as the LFGT's do. I know those two old Broadmoors had an odd set up for the rear wheels/hubs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tacey
I have a 6011. The rear wheels are held on by a cotter pin. Tacey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BigRick
Thanks for all the advise. The rim is soaking now in a combo of chemicals that could be scary. I am going to let the concoction sit for awhile as I am going away for the weekend. I will let you know how it goes. By the way, http://www.kanolabs.com , is having a buy one get one free offer, it maybe a good way to try some of their other products. "1 FREE can of AEROKROIL, the oil that creeps,penetrating oil that loosens frozen metal parts with any purchase - OR - substitute any Kano aerosol when you buy one." Rick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LeoB
Damn... you know... I was psyched when I first read this post. I thought that maybe I had a solution to problem instead of always having the problem. Oh well... maybe next time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×