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rhinodjanghardt

Landlord 3410 - how does it stop?

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rhinodjanghardt
Howdy all from a UK (English) newbie ... I have a Landlord 3410 which has gradually developed an ignition problem (I believe), which has resulted in my removing the engine twice - it's on the bench now. I'll tell the abridged version of the story, so as not to bore the reader: Initially, I suspected ignition timing and on checking the points, realised there is no adjustment other than the gap. Took tractor to my local agricultural specialist, who suggested removing the original B&S 243143 in order to drop the sump to extract the "stuck" and - he suspected - too short points actuating pin. In order to save money, I took the tractor back home and after taking the motor apart, realised that - like Michael Jackson - the 243143 engine's points are not like other guys; they are open for 98% of the cycle and close momentarily. This appeared to work fine at around TDC: when they were shut they were shut, .020 gap the rest of the time. Anyhow, after foolishly attaching 12v to what I later gathered to be the "stop lead" (according to B&S) and burning out the original magneto coil (I had thought a normal coil lurked under the cover), I ordered and fitted a new one. £75 - ouch! Checked the top end, changed the oil, plug, etc., and put it all back together, only to find the original problem persisted. Good compression (100+ p.s.i), ether spray was no help, then I realised there were far too many sparks coming very irregularly, even when points were not attached to the "stop" (coil) lead. More than two per cycle. Are the points somehow controlling these into one big spark? Fitted new condensor - no change. Sparks now getting very intermittent and latterly none at all once the coil lead was connected to the points. Well, to cut a long story short, I then suspected tracking to ground in the old short lead from the insulated terminal post, to which I had (also foolishly) attached the new coil lead. Take engine out again and remove this lead, feeding the new lead all the way out to the points. Yet to fit the engine and prove this works ... So, whilst the motor is out, I'm looking for a wiring diagram, to check and understand how the stop mechanism works. The points wire also attaches to a cream/beige wire going back to the ignition switch (it's a key starter), so this should surely go to ground when the ign switch is off? It doesn't! So how does the engine stop? It always used to ... ?! If someone could post a picture of the wiring diagram, or otherwise explain what this cream/beige wire does, I'd be very grateful. Neither of the two diagrams in a recent post ("Wiring Diagram") are good for my 3410 and the Repair Manual is not available as a .pdf from the Simplicity site. Thanks for reading this far. I'm now going to do a test fit and turn the motor over on the key ... BR, David. PS: I love this machine, which I use to mow my 0.75 acre orchard. This affection accounts for recent long hours in the garage, new sticky tyres, etc., etc. They don't make 'em like this any more!

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Steell
You did not state your product number (990xxx) so the best thing to do, is to go to the link listed below, and download the appropiate manual. (Type in 500 for repair manuals, 400 for parts manuals). [url]http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/v_techpubsearch.php#start[/url] Steve

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goatfarmer
Welcome David. I've got a 3410 also,and it's my favorite tractor. I think you're right,that the wire from the points going to the switch grounds the magneto,and shuts it down. It's possible that you're switch is bad,and not working properly.

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gregc
Parts list for a 3410 tractor here: http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_400_1351_00_LL_S.pdf Wiring diagram on page 31. Large Frame Tractor Repair Manual here: http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_500_973_01_SV_SMA.pdf

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SmilinSam
if it won't shut off when you turn the key off then it is likely that the keyswitch is faulty and not making ground in the off position, or a wire is broken to it somewhere.

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rhinodjanghardt
OK, it's a Model 755, Serial 02976. The B&S model number is of course 243431, not 243143 as I said in the original post. After re-fitting the motor, it still won't start. There is NO spark when magneto is connected to the points; however, without magneto connected to points I'm getting multiple, almost randomly intermittent sparks. Very confused about this. It always used to shut off, but as it won't start, I can no longer verify this. However, I can't determine how it stops. The magneto & points are connected via a cream wire to terminal D of the 4 pin ignition switch. Terminal D is open circuit (i.e. not connected to any other terminal) in all three switch positions; the Large Frame Tractor Repair Manual (which has many errors and inconsistencies surrounding the 4 pin switch) reinforces this, stating that in the OFF position, no terminals should be connected (strange?)! The other terminals are B (+12v), C (genny light) & S (starter solenoid); none goes to earth. B & C are connected in the RUN position, B & S in the START position. The repair manual says B, C AND S should be connected in START, but C is not. Weird thing is, I believe that in the RUN position, the only thing "activated" is the generator lamp! Why is this? It doesn't really matter whether the lamp is on during starting, so I'm not concerned about C in START posn. The engine cranks fine. The wiring diagram on page 31 of TP_400_1351_00_LL_S.pdf shows terminals L, S, M & B (B & S match) with magneto going to M, which doesn't exist on my switch. Anyhow, the main problem is I can't get a regular spark, even though there are plenty of random ones when the magneto wire is disconnected. Any help on this would be much appreciated, as I running out of time and patience! The grass grows fast in England, even during a virtual drought. My neighbour charged me £30 for a cut last time. Thanks again, Cheers, David.

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