AC917Hydro Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 Hi all, After pulling out the compressor for the eleven-hundredth time to re-inflate the old tires on my AC917, I'd had enough. I removed the front offending wheel and took the tire off the rim with limited drama. I cleaned up the rim and gently slid the new tire on. (by gently I mean I was on my hands and knees, jumping up and down, cursing and swearing, all while poking and prying with screwdrivers:I)I did however, get the new tire on okay. I pulled the tire up on one edge of the rim with high hopes that I might get some air into that baby. Well, here's where I'm stuck. There is a 1.5" gap on the other side of the tire letting all my nice compressed air shoot right out of my pretty new tire. How the heck do I get the other side close enough to the rim to hold a little air back and press itself onto the rim completely?!? (and yes, the new tires are the correct size;)) Any ideas? Thanks,
Dadsy98 Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 I use a ratcheting cargo strap around the tire. It helps if you do this on a warm day. Also, there is the ether option. The first idea works pretty well. The second idea is more entertaining. [:0] Steve
DaveM Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 Sometimes it helps to beat on the top of the tire with your fist while putting the air in. This will sometimes pull the other side up and tight so a bead is formed. It may take several tries to get this to work. DaveM
RickS Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 I have also used the ratcheting strap around the tire. It does work great. Steve is correct, the warming the tire is, the easier it is to get it to seat. Lubrication will also help seat the tire. Good luck. Rick.........
tractormike Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 On all of my tractors I put a new inner tube in when I put on new tires. Tubes for the front wheels run about 6.00 and you don't have any trouble getting the tire to seat on the rim. It saves at least 6.00 worth of time and trouble and works the first time.
PatRarick Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 I lubricate the tire and rim with a water and dishsoap mixture, then support the assembly by the tire only. Pound on the rim with a heavy rubber mallet to partially seat the beat on one side. GENTLY push the rim against the unseated side of the tire while putting air in the tire. Remove the valve core to seat the bead, as the core greatly reduces the volume of air going into the tire. Pat
jkmustang1 Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 If you don't have a strap. A bit of rope long enough to go around the tread of the tire tied. A bar or a pipe in between tire and the rope. Twist it tightening the rope forcing the tire out to the rim at the bead. Add air till it seats and seals. It worked for me putting the front tire on my B10.
HubbardRA Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 If all else fails, and you don't have one of those high volume air blast tanks that tireshops use, you can use starting fluid. It is explosive and dangerous, so don't assume that I am saying it if for everybody. You will need starting fluid that has ether in it. A short blast of about one second, then flip a match at the gap between the tire and wheel. Pop and it is seated. I have used this technique several times when nothing else worked. No more that one or two psi in the tire after explosion. Bead gets seated by the shock wave from the explosion. Please don't put too much starting fluid in the tire or the explosion will be violent and could injure or kill. The blast tank is the best way to seat a tire. Small portable tank with about a 1 1/2 inch discharge pipe and a ball valve. Place the discharge pipe in the gap between tire and wheel and open the valve suddenly. Sudden, high volume of air causes tire to expand onto the rim and pushes the pipe out of the way. Please be careful if you try the starting fluid. I don't want anyone to get hurt because of my suggestion. Hope this helps.
MPH Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 I used a bunggie cord around the two flat tires on the 'parts needed' seeder I bought last week. Worked good on the first one but the second one was too stiff in a beads are almost touching shape. Stopped by the tire shop and gave it a big blast and popped rt on. Air volume is the big key. Forgot about removing the valve core, Thanks Pat..MPH
arnoldir Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 Here goes one more potential trick. Tear some strips about 4" wide off an old towel and soak them in soapy water, then wrap them around one side of the rim to make up the space thats left after putting the ratchet strap on it. Air it up slowly and you might be able to pull the strips back out., if not you may h be able to put in enough air to seat the opposite bead then air down pull the strips and then set the tire over a bucket to froce the final bead up against the rim. I've not tried it yet, but a small bicycle tube can be inflated and used as a "cheater" also. Good luck
HubbardRA Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 I have also used the bicycle tube a couple of times and been successful. However, it has not always worked.
AC917Hydro Posted September 3, 2003 Author Posted September 3, 2003 Thanks for all the suggestions guys, I'll go and try a few of the less lethal options now. Thanks,
roneil Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 Jeff, Try to get back to us before trying the Starting Fluid / Ether trick :)
BigSix Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 I haven't tried the ratchet strap, which seems easiest, but if you can't get enough compression that way, you can take a good, thick, rope, with a slipknot at one end, and run it around the tire/wheel, parallel to the tread. Then take a steel bar, 18" or longer, but no bigger than you want to have whap you in the shin if you let go of it, and start winding it up in the rope, like the rubber band on a giant model airplane. I prefer a straight bar to a wrecking bar, which will do more damage if it gets loose. So twist and twist and if your rope is strong enough, the center of the tire will come down, down, down and start crushing the beads down toward the rim. This can dramatically close up your gaps. Then start with the air, but BACK THE BAR/ROPE TWISTS off as you inflate the tire. This may seem a little tricky, but I've done it and it's really pretty easy and effective. Having said that, the gentleman who puts the tubes in everytime may be on to something, for a mere $6.00. Good luck!
PatRarick Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 I would NEVER recommend the starting fluid/ether trick. A trucker in a neighboring town used ether or propane (whichever was convenient at the time). It's been about ten years since his funeral, and yes, his death came about from that practice. It's like many other unsafe things we do. You can do it for years without a problem, but one mistake is all it takes with something that dangerous. Pat
ROBBYDOB Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 I definately agree with Pat. As a young teen, I watched a trucker's leg hurl across the highway, into traffic. Please use a good ratcheting strap, or buy an inner tube. Everyone of mine has innertubes.
Ishmael2k Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 Not to minimize anything but the amount of ether needed to seat a small tire like we are talking about is not likely to amputate a leg or kill someone. Both the above cases were truckers and I'd wager a bet that they were both working on split rims or at the least very large stiff semi truck tires.[:0] It only takes a second or so blast from the can to get enough ummmpf to seat a 2-4 ply garden tractor tire. Having said this, I agree with tractormike, if you don't have access to a tire machine with a big blast system then put a tube in it. ;)
HubbardRA Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 Jeff, Go buy a tube. I knew the starting fluid idea would stir up a lot of confilct when I posted it. I have only used it when none of the other techniques that have been suggested will work, and only on automotive tires where a tube presents a catastrophic blow out hazard. I run tubes in all of my garden tractor tires. I mentioned this in another post. Sorry I didn't mention it earlier in this one. A tube is the easiest and safest solution.
DaleC Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 You need to use the soapy water even if you put a tube in. expecially on a 16.5X6X8. You will have a hard time seating the bead otherwise.
ReedS Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 another trick (NOT involving either) is to use a bucket or 5 gal plastic pail (needs to be air tight). Place tire/rim assembly on the top of the pail, stem side up. Add air to pail/tire /rim through the bearing hub(I use an air nozzle with an extension tube) sealing the space around the air nozzle with a rag. As the air pressure increases in the bucket it will also fill the tire and cause it to expand. It may be nessecary to have a helper add air to the tire at the valve stem. Of course I've also used the rachet strap as well. Good luck!
AC917Hydro Posted September 4, 2003 Author Posted September 4, 2003 Well. I'm back and in one piece too! Even better, the tire is seated and the tractor rolls around again. I kind of used tid bits of advice from everyone. I do not have a strap, or rope at home so I had to improvise. First I hung the rim/tire in a 5 gallon plastic bucket and pounded the rim down onto the bead on one side of the tire. (I did not use soapy water) With the bead on very securely on one side, I then placed the rim/tire on a small basketball to press up on the rim while I pressed down on the tire. I was able to pull the tire down enough to get it to grab the bead on the other side. I added some air and presto! The tire and rim became a wheel. Thanks again to everyone for your very helpful suggestions. I'll try my luck with the other one tomorrow to see if I just got lucky or I actually know what I'm doing now. :) Thanks,
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