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DaleC

Left hand hub

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DaleC
I put tire chains on my B_12 and discovered a disconcerting thing. THE HUB WAS LOOSE letting the wheel move back and forth. I had never checked the set screws so I loosed the jam nut and sure enough one set screw was loose. I mowed between 6 & 7 acres with it over the week end and checked it again when I took the chains off and IT WAS LOOSE AGAIN. I have tighten it again but am worried that there is some serious wear there. Any experience with this problem?

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Salthart
If you mean "lose" as in wabble, You may want to replace the hub before damage is done to the axle. The set screws are there to keep the hub from moving off the axle not to make up for wear. be sure to look under the hub for wear on the axle. If there is enough so that there is side to side motion with a new hub replace the axle also. Wish I had better news for you.. Salt

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Roy
If the hub and axle are worn badly a cheap fix is to weld the hub to the axle. I think it takes a nickle welding rod to weld the cast iron hub to the steel axle. Did my B-1 several years ago. So far it is holding up fine. the newer tractors come with a one piece hub and axle. Good luck.

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HubbardRA
Roy is correct. I have one piece hub/axles on all my tractors, even the 61 Wards. If you can find a late model posi unit with the one piece axle/hub, it is a direct bolt in. The one I have in my 61 Wards came from an AC716H.

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DaleC
Fellows, I will take it down this afternoon and tell you what I find. There is definite side to side motion with out haveing the tractor weight off the ground. Doesnot sound good to me. I will keep you posted. Dale

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DaleC
I went ahead and used the tractor to mow. I figured I really didn't know how long it had been "loose", had probably been a long time, so it won't hurt to keep using till I would get a chance to take it down. My reasoning was completely faulty. I took the hub off of the Big Ten to put on the B-12. I went to the take off the wheel on the B-12 and found that the hub was completely wallowed out. When I tried to loosen the set screws, the one to the axle was hard to turn. I put SOME pressure on it and it loosened and came out. I looked at the end and realized it had twisted off at the axle. I like to have died. There is no way to get the hub off. I would be afraid to us the axle anyway from the severity of the damage to the hub. SOOO if I understand right this is what I need.

Replace this two piece axle assembly with

this assembly. Of course I am referring to the axle only Parts to make a repair with original style parts is $160+ One piece replacement is $70+ Please tell me this is correct and that it is a cake job. Dale

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thedaddycat
Cake job yes, correct part, I don't think so.... I think that the weldment style left hub was not used until about the 3400 series(1972) which by then was using the new style right side hub-and-gear assembly. This means that you will have the longer axle shaft for the newer tractors instead of the shorter one the older tractors used. Do a search, I'm sure I've posted at least two or three times about the differences.......

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DaleC
Kirk, First I want to thank you for all your efforts on the rest of the club members behalf. You share your knowledge freely and it is greatly appreciated. I am printing the post that you and Rod H. exchanged on the differences between the long and short axle and the new vs. older style differential. Is this new style limited slip. I was unclear about that. Is that the reason that the nylon traction plugs are not in the newer style. I do not have access to any "spare" parts except what I own. I have not established a "network" here in northern KY. I am of a mind to return this unit to original condition for posterities sake and also because it looks to be easier than coming up with the parts to change it over. I am at a loss as to which is the best way to go. I cannot get the hub off because of the set screw. I am going to try to drill it out since I am sure that the axle is junk also. I love my B-12 and hate to see the old boy looking so "droopy" on the left side. Till I can get this done right, I am going to refire the Big Ten (uses oil) and just check the oil a lot. I mow about 7 to 8 hours a week and will use about a quart to a quart and a half a week. I only had to add to the B-12 once every two weeks. If you have any other suggestions. I am open. I did do a through research on when the one piece was introduced and you are right about the 3400 series. Thanks for your input. Dale

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thedaddycat
Dale, you are here so by default you ARE part of the network. The differences in the traction control are in the differential. The new style takes the hub/gear assy. and is longer. That's why the axle shaft has to be longer, to accomodate the hub. It is still a limited slip differential, just goes about it in a different manner. The new style uses springs pushing against the pinion gears inside the differential instead of cap screws pushing plugs against the shaft. What is it you need, short axle shaft and a left hub? Long axle shaft, left hub, and right hub/gear? There are plenty of folks who could help you out getting the parts you need to go wither way. Just PM someone and ask them.......

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KenK
Sounds like a no brainer,weld the hub to the axel.This will cause no problems in operation and there will be no problems if you ever have to get into the tranny.I think the only reason they made a hub out there removable was for the sake of changing the axle seal easier.

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DaleC
Ken, I would agree and I probably will try it, however when I said it is all wallowed out I mean it is all wallowed out. It is destroyed. The key way is twice it's width on the out side and I have my doubts that I can ever get it lined up true to even be able to weld. I will have to take my best guess and give it a try. It is a shame I didn't stop using it and ended up really tearing up my FDT. Ahhh I still have one to make run so I can get my fix...HEHEHE. Nothing like a good FDT. Kirk, If this doesn't work I will be screaming for help. I just ordered $100.00 worth of parts for the mower deck which Jack's shipped on the 18th. Should have them tomorrow to start that task.

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dirtsaver
Dale I don't have the axle you need but consider your Kentucky network started. I'm just off I-71 between Louisville and Cincy. There are still a few places to find parts around this area. Larry

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DaleC
Larry, Thanks for the info. I have really never looked for KY members on the site. Good to know you are there. There was a fellow over around old Washington in Mason Co. I don't know who he is but you have inspired me to find him and maybe more! I live on a 150 acre farm and have been toying with the idea of having a field day/tractor show/parts swap/tractor pull. Fellows could show off their restorations, equipment, plow, disk, rotary mow, sickle mow, load, grade, what ever. What do you think Dale

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Salthart
Put on safty glasses and grab yourself a side grinder. Cut the hub in 2 in about 2 minutes. Check the axle to see how badly the thing is damaged, post here for parts needed..If the B10 is the same, and I think it is, I may have something. Salthart/Marty

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HubbardRA
Dale, First I would try welding the old hub. I actually made a homemade hub for one that I shattered during tractor pulling. I will not go into that design now. Method to line up the hub: First find a wooden block or some pieces of metal that the wheel mounting face can be set on and will fit snugly against. Use a level to get this surface level. Put the wheel mounting surface of the hub against this level surface. Then use the level to make sure the axle is plum in the vertical position. Now tack the pieces together. They may now be welded and will be square to each other. You can also use a late model axle with the older diff. All the keys are in the same locations. Since the newer right side hubs are longer, the late model axle will stick through the older diff a couple of inches. You can leave the extra axle sticking out or cut it off. It is that simple. They didn't change much on these machines.

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DaleC
Rod, I never thought about that. I thought that the difference in the lenght was on the differential side. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21011 I will look. That may just work. The weilding is the best idea if I can get it lined up. This job will take about six hands.

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