Chris727 Posted September 4, 2003 Posted September 4, 2003 You might recall a story about a 7013 Baron with a nearly unrebuildable motor, well I'm not going to rebuild it. It would be very costly, so instead i found a 10 HP briggs for $100 but haven't seen it yet, but I almost hate to lower the hp. I also found a 16 horse briggs in an old Gilson built Montgomery Ward hydro with a 42 inch deck, the tractor looks fair and he wants $250, are these valuable parted out or should I keep looking for another motor, was the original engine a 12 or 13 HP on a 7013? Thanks. -Chris
SmilinSam Posted September 4, 2003 Posted September 4, 2003 Not sure how those Gilsons part out. On Ebay there seems to be a market for most anything. MPH had one or two of those old Gilsons. He might be able to give a review....
gretsch Posted September 4, 2003 Posted September 4, 2003 I've never seen one, but the "13" in 7013 would stand for the horsepower of the original motor.
mbrook Posted September 5, 2003 Posted September 5, 2003 I have a 7013 System, and yes it is a 13hp Briggs in mine. I picked mine up this past spring and was told its all original. As for repowering it to a 10hp. I would guess it depends on what you plan on doing with the tractor. If you just mow with it, I would think that is enough power. Unless you have a 48" deck then it might be questionable. And being that its a 7013 System I'm assuming that its a shuttle drive, if its a hydro I've been told they take more hp. On the other hand I think if you can pick up a good running 16hp cast iron Briggs for $250 in a Glson you could propable get at least $100 to $150 for parts through ebay or other places. Tires and rims alone can go for $50-$60 depends on condition. IMO
SmilinSam Posted September 5, 2003 Posted September 5, 2003 Just as a note, we had discusions on Horsepower ratings before and the 12, 13, & 14 HP briggs are all pretty much the same 30 cu in engine.
RickS Posted September 5, 2003 Posted September 5, 2003 SmilinSam, Is it the carb that changes the HP rating between the three engines? Rick............
HubbardRA Posted September 5, 2003 Posted September 5, 2003 I have an AC716H that I have temporarily re-powered with a 10Hp B/S 243431 engine. Tractor pulls my trailers and mows great, even with the 48 inch deck. If I let the grass get overly tall, I have to mower at a slower pace or take a narrower cut. I have had a 42 inch deck and now a 48 inch deck on this setup. I can't tell much difference horsepower wise, between the two decks. Of course it would do better with 16 Hp, but I needed money and traded that engine off several years ago before I decided to resurrect the tractor from the scrap pile. All three of my tractors are resurrections and none have the original engines. My most powerful is my 61 Wards that is running a 14Hp Kohler with a 10Hp head that has been milled .060. I don't mow with that one. It was set up for tractor pulling and currently does towing and snow plowing duties.
SmilinSam Posted September 5, 2003 Posted September 5, 2003 quote:Originally posted by RickS SmilinSam, Is it the carb that changes the HP rating between the three engines? Rick............ I think in the discussions that the conlusion was that the decals were the only difference on these. A marketing ploy. Have to find the original discussion to see for sure. I don't know if anyone actually sat down with carbs from the different engines and compared. I know the model numbers of the 12, 13 and 14hp all start with "30" denoting 30 cu in. I also know that the carbs on all 3 use the same parts to rebuild ( I use the same parts anyhow....& for that matter I regluarly interchange the carbs on the 10 -16 hp Briggs.) The 15 and 16 hp are the same situation. Same numbers that start with "32".
Chris727 Posted September 5, 2003 Author Posted September 5, 2003 A guy I know told me that he though the 16 horse briggs engines aren't as good as the old 10's. Other people as well have told me that the tens were the best engine briggs ever made. Is this true? My 7013 is a shuttle with a 42" deck but I have thought of putting a 48" on it someday. Also I have found a couple more 16's one for $175 that runs great from what I'm told. Thanks for the input. -Chris
SmilinSam Posted September 5, 2003 Posted September 5, 2003 Frankly, I've never had any problems with any of the cast briggs 10-16. Even worn out they still were able to do work. I like the Kohlers too, maybe even better to a degree, but they don't seem to stand up to operator neglect as well as the Briggs do.
goatfarmer Posted September 6, 2003 Posted September 6, 2003 I went to look at 3 "AC" tractors a few years ago. 2 of them were AC's,a B1 and a B210,which I purchased. The third was a Wards Gilson,which I turned down,simply because I didn't know if I could get parts,or part it out.
patrician12 Posted September 6, 2003 Posted September 6, 2003 The 16hp Briggs is indestrutible but do you have one.The 32 series briggs is quiet different in appearence of other L-head single cylinder in their size alone.The tractor is well worth the money for the engine alone.As far as parting don't be too optimistic,I have 2 Gilsons.You wouldn't even think they were made by the same company.Gilson made so many models with so many configurations I could see that their production costs alone probably did them in. What I found is there doesn't seem to be a big demand to restore them because like in your case the motor is worth more than the tractor.One Gilson of mine is almost like new with a 16hp v twin briggs and the other needs a trans and paint and sports a 12hp single cylinder Kohler.You know the first good tractor that comes along that needs a motor its adios for the Gilson.
Chris727 Posted September 8, 2003 Author Posted September 8, 2003 Well tonight I found a 16 Horse I/C off of a yazoo for $100. I'll have to convert it over to a starter generator but that shouldn't be a problem as I have all that stuff off the old engine. Hopefull the baron will be running within a couple weeks. Thanks for all the input guys. Oh and the guy I'm getting the motor from has an AC 710 with square headlights, needs a connecting rod, tractor looks real good though but I just have too many to try to get another tractor, I gotta say these things are just too addictive!!!!!!!!!!
rokon2813 Posted September 8, 2003 Posted September 8, 2003 If you found your 16, its too late but my 2 cents anyway. I had a baron 3410, 10 hp with a hydro and the 10 hp had no problem with a 48" deck under it unless the grass got real high. It also plowed snow for 2 years and pushed a johnny bucket for one summer. Biggest problem I had was keeping the hydro adjusted but no problems with power.
thedaddycat Posted September 8, 2003 Posted September 8, 2003 I don't know about the Briggs CI single 16 horse being indestructable, there's one in my back yard that has a mangled rod and piston. I have the Foley-Belsaw catalog ordered, I'll have to take some measurements, see if I can get by with honing it out or if it needs to be bored out a size. Heck, I dont' even know if it's been bored out already or not. I pulled it from the frame and haven'touched it since(except to swipe the upper S/G bracket... lol). I have a Briggs 10 that will go right into it, and I'll mount the front PTO from the 16 onto it. I'd like to see how that 48" deck cuts.
Chris727 Posted September 10, 2003 Author Posted September 10, 2003 Well I got the 16 HP I/C home and discovered that I have a problem. The oil fill is on the pan like on my B110 but then I discovered the oil fill is on the block on the 7000 series because the frame is narrower and there is not enough room in the engine compartment for the fill on the pan. I have another pan I could use but I would need a place to fill it. Has anyone ever drilled the hole in the block for the dipstick and fill tube? I can use my old fill tube off the 13. Thanks. -Chris
PatRarick Posted September 10, 2003 Posted September 10, 2003 On the PTO side of the engine, look on the top of the crankcase, behind the cylinder on the side opposite the carb. Many of these engines have a provision for a dipstick/fill tube. It looks like a plastic oil plug screwed into the top of the crankcase. It your engine has this plug, there is a rubber gromment and dipstick tube that can be installed in it's place. This puts the oil fill/dipstick at about the same level as the head. It's pretty handy. If not, the block of your engine should have a flat boss, slanted upward toward the engine, on the oil pan mounting flange of the crankcase. It can be drilled and tapped for your oil fill/dipstick. Pat Pat
MikeES Posted September 11, 2003 Posted September 11, 2003 I have drilled and tapped the block on a pre 1971 B&S. This was quite simple. Just need the correct drill and tap. Drill it at 90deg to the casting angle (about 45deg). I swapped the oil pan and fill tube/dipstick from another B&S, and sold it to go into a B10.
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