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DavidG

Hydro Lift Question

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DavidG
Got my Hydro lift installed recently , and it seems to be working good, however ,I have some concerns .... The clearance between the impliment lift rod and the ram mounting bracket and bolt, is very, very tight. In fact , it rubs as it moves forward and back on the bolt that the ram pivots on. I doesn't appear to be binding , or damaging anything , but since the tractor is only built up to the BGB. ( the rear end is still off), I am worried that when the trans. is attached, there may be enough mis-alignment to cause binding. My b-10 is the older model that uses the impliment rod with the yoke at each end. Is there a special lift rod if you have a hydro, or is this tight clearence normal? Any adjustments I should be concerned about? Thanks, Dave

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Kent
As far as I know, there's no special lift rods or clevises required. If you'll loosen (lightly) the lock nut on rear of the ram, you can rotate it slightly so that the rear implement lift rod doesn't rub the hoses and fittings. Then, tighten that nut back down. You could also use some washers on the on the pin that goes through, and "shim" the ram over to the right as far as it will go... I show the problem, and how I rotated mine in the picture below, from when I was putting a hydro in my B-210. [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/images/var_hydro/full_tunnel_top.jpg[/img]

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DavidG
Kent, I'm not having any problem with the lift rod hitting the ram or the pto hardware, as the ram seems to be turned in the right position and the pto has a seperate mounting bracket, But it is rubbing on the bolt (actually the nut), that the ram is attached to on the rear bracket. I see in your picture that the bolt is installed opposite from the way mine is installed. I tried installing it with the nut on the right hand side, but it really interfered with the shift rod. In fact I couldn't get the cover plate to set in place, the shift rod would interfere and bind on the nut and I couldn't get the cover plate pushed down in place, so I installed with the bolt head on the right side. It does work , but now the clearence on the impliment rod is comprimised. Maybe I should re-install bolt the way yours is shown, discard the nut, drill a hole, and use a cotter pin. (?).....Not sure what I'm doing wrong here. Dave

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powerking_one
Dave, Kent: My Landlord 2110 uses a pin with dual cotter pins on the rear ram pivot as opposed to a bolt & nut. The parts manual also calls for a pin instead of a bolt. I'd think this would give you the adequate clearances you desire. Tom (PK)

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DavidG
Well, I'm not sure if I should have done this , but it seems to work.... I chucked up the pin that the ram mounts to in my lathe, and removed the threaded end all the way flush with where the pin changes to a larger diameter. I then drilled it about 5/8 deep, and tapped it for 1/4-28. Inserted it back through the bracket and ram , and screwed in a 1/2" long 1/4-28 bolt with a low profile,large diameter head and a fender type washer. Now the pin has a very low profile on either end and doesn't seem to interfere with the impliment rod or the shift/shuttle rod. I don't think I weakoned it , as the bolt takes up the space of where it was drilled , except for about an 1/8" or so area in the pin. I guess I will find out when i put a load on it. Dave

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Kent
What you see in mine is what I think came from the factory, since it has factory hydrolift... Not sure, though, but that's my guess. My problem is that I'm using a 9/16" rear lift rod instead of 1/2"...

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