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Chris727

Always happens at the worst time!

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Chris727
It never fails, the equipment always breaks down when you need it most. I went to start my B110 which used to always start easy and something didn't sound right. STUCK VALVE[:0] Why would the valve stick? I had it running a couple days ago. I do know the valve guides are a little worn. And in three weeks I was going to take it to a tractor show:( I hope I can find the time to fix it, I've got 13 other lawn tractors but none of them mow grass! Looks like I might have to borrow my dad's craftsman:(

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Chris727
I know I shouldn't be superstitious but a black cat crossed my path earlier that day. Fortunately I'm getting a 1970 Sears Custom 10XL with snow blade and mower deck for $25 next weekend, hopefully I can get it to run and cut. The guy I'm getting it from is trying to get me to take some old Sears Suburbans for free but I can't get a big enough trailer to get them all. At least its a "SEARS" not a "Crapsman" Has anyone ever had to fix a stuck valve, I'm guessing I'll have to get a valve spring compresser and remove the valve. -Chris

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Salthart
Naaa, Don't pull the valve.. Remove the valve cover and the spark plug.. Turn the engine slowly by hand and watch the valves move. You will see when the lifter stops on the bottom side. Just notice how far from the valve stem it is.. If one valve is much higher than the other, its the one thats stuck..Spray WD-40 or some such on the valves as you turn the engine. Most times this will free it.. Change the oil and if you want my 2 cents worth, Use Havoline. Not wanting to argue with anyone about what oils are what, I can only say that no one has ever shown me a sludged up engine that ran Havoline.. This includes my time spent as mechanic for the state. I had 138 motor vehicles and a large number of farm, lawn, and earth moving equipment that I had to take care of.. Huge inline and V-8 diesels gen sets.A Fleet of 935 John Deere diesels and Front cut Toro's with 4cyl gas engines. They all used Havoline and not one oil related failure or sludged up engine. Could other oils have sone as well ? I'm sure some could But I know Havoline so I recoment it. Salthart

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HubbardRA
Chris, You probably only have a varnish buildup on the valve. Remove the valve cover/Breather. Spray the valve shafts with PG Blast and use a screw driver to work them up and down several times. Then turn the motor over to make sure both are working. The PB Blast should loosten the varnish enough to let the valve move freely. I have had several valves stick from varnish buildup.

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Chris727
Took the head off and the intake valve had major carbon build up, when I scraped the carbon off the top of the piston it revealed some bad news, its already been bored out to .30 It was going to need a new set of rings, the guy I bought it from had owned it for 30 years and he only changed the oil once a season, and the engine uses a little oil. I hope I can still save it. -Chris

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HubbardRA
Chris, Look at the cylinder. If it is smooth with no scoring, then put in a new set of rings. I have a 10Hp B/S that I have put new rings in twice and still have not bored it. First time the rings were stuck, second time my son got it too hot for lack of oil. If the engine gets overheated the rings will lose their tension even though the cylinder walls are not worn much.

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Salthart
I know that there are many here with there own thinking. And what works for me others wouldn't dream of doing. This is well and good. And I am not in any way knocking anyones way. I just offer what has worked for me. I costs 80 bucks around here to bore and sleeve a cast iron single. I have never bored to over size.. My thinking being that the engine was set up and balanced for standard. Another good thing about a steel sleeve is that they are far less pourous than cast. This means much IMO like there are less tiny holes for combustion by products to hide and build up in.(grit also ) But I think maybe the best thing is how much more "Slick" the steel is... I have build quite a few and must say they seem very long lived. So I wouldn't sweat it should this be the way you go..You may find it to be a good thing. Salthart

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johnerj
I too feel the same as Salthart, but I am wondering, are you going to hone the cylinder before installing the new rings? Rod, did you hone first or just install the new rings? Just wondering if honing really needs to be done before installing new rings, or new piston and rings. John

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Chris727
The scratches in the cylinder aren't bad so I am just going to fix the valve, and worry about a rebuild in the spring. By then the BGB will need some work too, fortunately I have some spare parts to fix that. The engine doesn't use too much oil, I change it problaby more often than every 20 Hrs. Main thing is the valve guides are worn, and the tractor smokes under heavy load a little and on start ups it smokes a lot sometimes but not all the time. Thanks for all the suggestions. -Chris

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