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SmilinSam

Homeade 36" tiller idler assembly

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SmilinSam
Here is one of my homade idler pulley sets in place for my revitalizer. [img]http://a2.cpimg.com/image/0E/BE/23496462-9a88-01A80196-BB.jpg[/img] I didn't make all the difficult bends that the original has. Kept it as simple as possible. I started with 5/16 to 3/8" thick x 1 1/2" wide flat steel and started the process by cutting a 14" long piece. Then I picked out a piece of pipe to fit over the rear lift shaft stub and cut it to length. (all measurements are in the 3rd Photo). Then I Got the torch and cut a hole for the pipe to fit in at about the middle of the flat. Then positioned the pipe in the flat according to measurements from a original bracket and welded it in from one side. Then I took a Heavy flat washer(same as used on the drive shaft couplers) and welded it to the pulley side of the pipe over the end. Then we took and by measuring and trial and error (3 attempts at heating and bending) bent the flat to the right shape. Then I cut a slott in the upper end for the flat idler to be bolted into. I made it a slot so I can use slightly different sizes of pulleys , depending on what I have laying around. The first setup I made(1st Photo) today uses a 4 1/2" V pulley off a Broadmoor mower PTO Idler group and a original flat pulley from a 36" tiller idler group. The second setup (2nd & third Pictures) uses a 5" V pulley from a 7000 series Center PTO and a 2 1/2" dia(wide width) pulley from my misc junk pile. [img]http://a3.cpimg.com/image/0F/BE/23496463-2079-01B20186-.jpg[/img] Finally I trimmed the end of the flat down to the right lenght to fit and marked & drilled the hole at the bottom to pin it to that littel ear that sticks out on the tractor frame upright. [img]http://a8.cpimg.com/image/24/09/23498788-9c4e-01060172-.jpg[/img] Ran the revitalizer around the yard a few times and it seems to work OK. I didn't put any of the shields or belt stops on, but can do that later if needed. I doubt I need them though. On the measurements these are not 100% exact. There was an amount of grinding off and trimming to get the fit and positioning right. I tried to give myself overage in building it so I could "take off" materiel rather than "add more". Works for me anyhow.

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SmilinSam
one other thing I noticed is that the Rear lift rods on the older tractors are longer than the ones on the newer style. The older ones may have to be shortened for this idea of mine to work on them, otherwise the bolt head in the pipe will prevent the piece from sliding all the way up against the frame of the tractor. Thsi is only my fix for my own use to solve the problem of " missing idlers" as inexpensively as possible. The idea is free to you all to use or modify to suit your tastes.

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UCD
Sam The cost of those parts are Part# 1657777 Arm assy          $63.30 Part# 105380  V pulley            $57.90 Part# 1657712 flat idler pulley   $20.50 Part# 105351  Belt stop           $6.10                                   Total    $147.80 So you saved your self a little bit of money

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PatRarick
Think I'll take Sam's route next time. It looks a lot easier than mine. I bought a 36" tiller that someone had mounted on a frame with a seperate engine to pull behind their MTD. Got it without the lift arm, idlers, and belt guard so I had to fabricate all of these. Here is the idler bracket.

Pat

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PatRarick
That's why I figured I'd do your design if I do it again. Much easier that way. Though mine isn't an exact copy (I didn't want to spend the money for the original V pulley with the 1" bore), I proved to myself that I can make an exact copy if the need arises. Pat

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