1967 Simplicity 3012 vs. 2001 MTD

[roneil]

Just got my mower deck set up on my Sovereign (thanks Rob B). I inherited the tractor without one. The deck has got to be as old as the tractor (it has the little wire footrests). I adjusted, leveled etc. last night and tried it out. WOW I have never seen a cut like this! My front lawn looks like a golf course putting green. A two year old MTD rider (42" also) with brand new blades cuts like CRAP compared to this beauty. My only problem now is the engine seems to be trying to quit after about 15 minutes of mowing. If I catch it I can goose the choke and keep it running. I'm going to check plug and point gaps and go through the Briggs carburetor adjust procedure. I blew a great deal of snow last winter and did work all summer without any problems. I guess the center PTO and mower puts a lot more strain on the engine than a snow blower on the front. Going to tear down the deck, sandblast and paint it this winter for a project.

[Salthart]

Roneil, A couple of things I would look for if I had a machine acting that way.. First and most important would be to remover the head shroud and make sure the cooling fins are clean and clear of grass etc. An air cooled engine with no air flow is no different than a car with a dry radiator. The reason I would look for this is that heat can cause what your speaking of. The next thing I would look at would be the screen in the fuel tank. On a machine that age it would be more of a suprise to me to fine one clean than not. Sluggish fuel flow can also cause what you spoke of. This is another problem than can cause overheating. IE lean burn.. Salt

[roneil]

Thanks for the suggestions. Getting ready to dig into it now. bob

[UCD]

Check your fuel line the filter screen in the tank and the vent in the gas cap. the deck should not work the engine any harder than a snow blower. all so check the cooling fins under the shrouds they could be plugged and the engine is heating some. but if you can chock it and keep it running check the fuel things first.

[a7117puller]

AND use SAE 30 oil, no automotive stuff...it foams up and leaves engine with no lubrication...thus throwing rods and other stuff.

[Boney]

a7117puller Can you elaborate some more on the "use SAE 30 oil, no automotive stuff...it foams up and leaves engine with no lubrication...thus throwing rods and other stuff." I did not know anything about this. THanx:)

[roneil]

I went to my auto parts store yesterday. Found only one brand of straight SAE30 oil, and it was some off name I've never heard of (30 years changing my own oil). The Briggs and Stratton operation and maintenance page for my engine says 10W-30 so I'm going with Castrol. http://www.simpletractors.com/operation/b_%26_s_243431.htm Bob

[johnmonkey]

I have seen where a clogged air filter could cause the problem and also a clogged breather. I hope this helps JH

[UCD]

SAE 30 is Automotive oil

[andy gartner]

Bob Lot of past posts on oil, but even the Briggs site recs., only one oil for all conditions-Synthetic- 10/20-40. But, you'll never go wrong in the summer w/30WT oil. Also many past post about a $10.00 trigger for ignition system. Bob Tiark and others know about it. Many members daddycat's post? have used these for years. When I get into my 4111, will try one this winter, to circumvent points, condenser. My 4111 would seem to start missing after about 30 min. in hot weather but, the shroud and fins were clear, thought maybe carb vapor lock? One interesting post mentioned prob if the gas tank was not full enough! How true if gas line goes up to carb! Lots of good info from people above to start with.

[roneil]

Thank you all for your input. I cleaned the fuel path to carb,and apparently that did the trick. Bob