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richp

Bevel gear drive pulley

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Kent
Rich, As I understand it, the pulley acts somewhat like a clutch, helping to prevent grabbing as the clutch is engaged.... A Big Ten (1965) dealer sales training manual that I have has the following quote: "The Big Ten's belt clutch with its very short belt and EXCLUSIVE split pulley design allows slippage, just as in automotive clutches. This helps eliminate jerky starts." It repeats it, by saying: "The design of the belt clutch includes a split pulley. This allows the clutch to slip a bit which in turn helps prevent jerky starts." So, since they "pitch" it as an exclusive feature, and repeated the information, I'm sure the Simplicity engineers used this type of pulley intentionally. I haven't personally replaced one with a standard pulley, so I'm afraid to speak of what the real difference is or how significant it might be.... Perhaps someone else has tried a standard pulley.

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Guest
Rich, Kent is right, I have tried a solid pulley and it jerks when the clutch is let out..

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richp
On my 64 Landlord, the pulley that goes on the bevel gearbox that drives the trans has A two piece friction device that seems to be making A high squeeling sound. This pulley also has the plate with rope slots in it for manual starting. What is the purpose of this pulley setup and can it be changed to a standard groove pulley. regards, Rich p

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dlcentral
Hey Rich, How've ya been out there in 'snowland'!?Good I hope. I have a slip pulley assy on a Big-10 if you need it? As Mr O. so correctly stated,it probably only needs a good cleaning/sanding.So nice to see you're back FRED! Keep that puter a runnin! Your pal! dlc

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dlcentral
Hello Richp, Yes you can put a standard pulley on inplace of the fiction type but as stated you will experience a somewhat jerky start upon releaseing the clutch. This pulley also helps when the belt is hot so that the belt does not crab so quick and even when the belt is somewhat out of adjustment. I would do what Fred stated about cleaning any rust or oil from the assembly. It also sounds like you have a couple of parts that are either missing or worn out. One is a plastic type bearing and the other is a plastic type thrust washer. The good news is that Jack's small engines can get both parts as I looked them up. The first part # 157033 is the bearing-price $2.22 and the other-thrust washer part # 157032 has been replaced with part # 960172 price $2.51-I don't know if he has these in stock but I checked his site and they still are available "neat" way of being able to check things out. Without the thrust washer the pulley halfs are able to run againest one another metal to metal and will cause the noise you are talking about. The Bearing if bad will allow the two halfs to have to much play in them and also allow metal to metal contact. Seems as though everyone has pretty much hit the "nail on the head for you. Best to all and its "great to have "Fred" back with us all. >>->happyjack<-<<

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Guest
Nice to hear from you Fred - we always enjoy your contributions - keep it up!

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yeoman
Yes, but only if it isn't manual start. First find a older garden tractor (Simplicity 700 or 725) and remove the clutch. It is a single pulley without all that plastic crap. Then remove your clutch and install the older one. It won't make the noise anymore. I hope I helped you.

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yeoman
My B-1 experience is that a new belt will grab and jerk. Once the belt is worn in it will not jerk unless you dump the clutch. The friction clutch sounds like another "improvement" that is just a lot of trouble. Remember "KISS" (keep it simple stupid). Roy

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Guest
Rich, First; I don't have a tractor with this style pulley so please take this with a grain of salt, and only if it seems to make sense for your situation. Assuming that the slip clutch consists of something similar to two flat organic friction discs bonded to the inner faces of the pulley halves, the squeal may be due to contamination by dirt/grease/crud. If so, a possible fix would entail removing the pulley and lightly sanding the friction plates on a piece of fairly fine sandpaper (do not use emery), on a flat surface, using an orbital motion. Sand only enough to remove the contamination and expose clean friction material. DO NOT try to cheat and use any solvent to clean the pulley. That would only dissolve the contamination and drive it deeper into the friction plates. That caveat also applies to belts, by the way. Clean ONLY the belt groove surfaces with a solvent, or by mechanical means. Also clean the driven (trans input) pulley. If the belt grooves were greasey the belt is likely also contaminated. If it feels at all gummy or slick on the working edges, replace it. I would strongly suggest an original equipment Simplicity belt. If there is evidence of oil contamination, you likely need a new seal at one or the other shaft. As always, anyone is welcome to amplify upon this, or to tell me how stupid I am. Oops! Kent's 'auto-logoff' thing got me while I was typing this. This reply was from Fred Olsen.

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