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Salthart

New one on me....

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Salthart
I know some of you turn wrenches for a living like I once did. Have you ever noticed how many time something that never happens when working on something for others WILL happen when working on your own equipment ? My Broadmoor.. I am almost done with this thing. Just replacing bearings in the mower deck.. I pull the arbor assy.. The pully won't come off.. I use rust remover.. Won't come off.. I use heat, won't come off.. I use penetrant, won't come off.. I use bigger hammer, won't come off ! LOL Its life...

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MPH
I feel for you, last week I put new shocks on my van, took me 5 hours to do one rear shock, never have seen shocks rusted on that bad, They been on for 4 years. The bolts screw into the frame on it, used penatrating oil first day, soaked it all night, next morning I got some O 2 for the torch and after heatting to cherry red, cooling bolt with pen. oil, they finally gave.IF you can put a heat sink, like visegrips, on the shaft, so it doesn't expand at the same rate the pulley does, it might just put you over the edge to winning...Also might try the ole coke trick, worked for me on machined cast iron parts once...MPH

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DaleC
I has the same problem with a cast pulley. I had to rotate it on the shaft to get it to come off because the key and keyway on the shaft were "buggered" from where the blade had hit a less than cooperative object. I tapped tapped tapped with a hammer till it loosened and moved and then presto, it came off.

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UCD
One trick that has worked for me is hot and cold. Heat it then douse it with cold water, do this a few times. I have used this on brake bleeders where if you heat it cherry red you will blow a brake line. I usually did it with a propane torch. after a couple times I could turn them out with a 1/4" ratchet with very little force. On something like the arbor shafts you can heat cherry red then the cold water. Putting pressure on it with a bearing puller and rapping the center of the puller shaft at the same time will in most cases shock it loose. On nuts and bolts try tighting them a little before you try to remove them. Hope this makes sense.

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MPH
The ole coke trick is to use coke as a rust penatant. I was trying to take apart a gilson tiller houseing, which swivels in two cast iron pieces that are machine fit, didn't want to heat cast iron, had an old mec. tell me of using coke, just don't quit until you win was his warning. Guess its the acid in the coke that eats the rust away. The tiller housing came apart within half an hour. I still only use it when PB blaster or areo kroil fail me...MPH

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Salthart
What UCD offered has worked for me for years.. Rear wheels on keyed shafts being the best example. But I have no torch handy so yesterday i set it on the stove and quenched it in the sink 3 times.. So far nothing. MPH, I have heard of this with coke but have yet to try it.. I do know that coke and a news paper will clean glass like nothing else. I was told this when fussing that nothing would remove the results of cigarette smoke from my windshield. It worked and clean up from the coke was just a wet cloth. I think I'll try it on the pulley. Thanks to you all for the input !

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HubbardRA
The best penetrant that I have ever used is "Kroil". I put a few drops on the joint between a shaft and collar each day until it can be seen at the joint on the other side. A few taps and the parts usually come apart. The company that makes it is Kano. A friend recently ordered a gallon and we split it. Use it sparingly. It is expensive but it works. It is also a good cutting fluid for machining, drilling or tapping.

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chivic
The thing that has worked best for me is to heat the shaft & pulley and melt some wax from a candle on it. Just like you were soldering it. The wax will wick-up between the shaft and pulley. It's worth a try. You can use MAP gas to heat it. It gets hotter then propain. It comes in bottles like propain. Hope it works for ya.

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Salthart
I have it soaking in muraitic acid now.. Got tired of playing. If this don't work, I'll try the wax.. Sounds kewl and maybe it will work. I know I can cut the pulley off the shaft NP and its not at all about the money ( Though I don't have that to spare either ) I just can't bear the thoughts of ruining a perfectly good part. Am i strange or what ? LOL

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chivic
Nah, you're not wierd. It's just that you know that thing should come off and there is no good reason why it shouldn't.LOL! I'm like you, I just hate ruining a good part. I hope you can save it.

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thedaddycat
In this case it's not a problem, just make sure the parts you have in hand are SUPPOSED to come apart..... I took apart a 1-3 gear once, and they're furnace brazed together. Had to run the press up to about 8 tons but it came apart..... OOOOPPPPPSSSSSS.....

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Salthart
Well, As I said, Mom did the mowing with this thing for the past 4 or 5 years and I'm sure this kinda creeped up on her so that she didn't notice it.. But When i got on it the Hydro was "Screaming" pretty good. I have done about all the other work to the unit and mowed today. I noticed that when put in a fair pull I got a kind of "Bump" feel from it. This could be caused by a few things that I can imagine but having never been into a "Hydro-gear" brand , Imagine is all I can do. I can't even figure out what fluid I am to be running in the thing but once I figure it out I will likely change it to the next heavier weight to maybe take up some wear. But thats putting the cart before the horse. I plan to pull the transaxle and see just what is going on inside it before doing another thing. I will also write Simplicity asking for an ID on this unit seeing that the numbers don't match any I could find on the page posted by UCD.. This noise is caused by air getting into the fluid. This can happen when the fluid is low, But i can see no sign of a leak so tend to think there is an inside leak or a strainer/filter that is clogged.. Neither is good really being the transaxle is built as it is.. But time will tell.

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fuzy
First to deal with salthart's problem. The unit you have has a hydro gear trany. The dealership I work for has had many failures of that drive. First signs are a sluggish drive. The only real repair is to replace it. It is not really worth opening and trying to repair it to only have it happen again. The replacement trany is a Tuff torq brand. It comes in kit form. (due to needing different mounting and belt, etc.)We have not had any failures on the new style. If you decide or ultimately need a new one, we can help you with that. Check us out at www.simplicityparts.com (name is changing soon but will forward you to our new site) and we can ship one right to you. Sorry for ruining your day. Next for johnp's problem....The leak may be from the oring between the pump and trany. It is the most common place for them to leak. The whine maybe due to the gears between the pump and trany meshing too tight together. Not going to cause any problems just noisy. If you decide to fix the leak when you are about to tighten the pump housing back onto the trany have someone lift up slightly on the pump (taking all the play in the bolts upwards) there by moving the gears just slightly further apart causing a better mesh. We have found this to help in some cases. I hope this helps you both.

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Salthart
THanks for your input Fuzy, But I'll go to a heavier fluid etc and drive it till it does fail before I spend the kinda money it takes to replace it. 6 years old, 3500 bucks and complete drive failure from engine to tranny ?????????????????????????ohhhhhhhh dear.....

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