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7013 hard start at 60 and below


MaxN

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Posted
Hi, I'm a simplicity newbee and I really appriciate this site!! Its just now getting cold and my 7013 starts like its 5 below. At 55 I pull choke and it will start. But it pops than pauses than pops and usually puffs a small bit of black smoke each pop. If I push the choke in it will die. It runs like crap for about 5 or more minutes than runs great. I've tried adjusting the carb while its running bad, but makes no difference. Today while it was warming up I pressed the govenor rod down and held it there. That seemed to make it run better. Am I on the right track? The tractor has an aftermarket(kwik-way) hydraulic front end-loader, could the pump be causing to much load on a cold engine thus causing my problem? I aquired it early this summer so this is the first chilly weather. I was really getting excited to push snow this winter, now I'm concerened. Thank you
Posted
That sure is strange Max. Have you tried disconnecting the pump? Thick oil in the pump causing the engine to have to work harder.... I dont know. Even at 55 degrees the oil should not be THAT thick tho. Im stumped too.
Posted
Any time you adjust a carb and do not see a result is is a pretty good indicator that something is wrong there. Popping is many times a sign of "Lean burn" and being that an engine needs a choke more and more as the weather cools, If you have restricted flow already, it only stands to reason that it will show up worse now. For a running engine you can many times mix by directions enough fuel injector cleaner with your gas, run the unit until you know the cleaner mix has reached the float bowl, Shut the engine down, back out the mixture screws a few turns and let it set an hour. On restart, you should notice that soon you have a rich burn and need to adjust the jets. If you don't, Building the carb is about the only option left to you. Good luck
Posted
Check the carb gaskets. Sounds like you have a vacuum leak and are sucking air someplace other than through the carb.
bubba_t _flubba
Posted
If there were a air leak, would it help to spray the carb with starting fluid while running. If it was sucking air it suck staring fluid and cause a change in RPM's. Just a thought. Greg
Posted
Thanks for the replies. I've tried spraying carb cleaner on and around the carb,while it was running,to see if the idle speed changed. Nothing happened, but maybe starting fluid would work better. I'm going to check the carb setting before I start it today. I'll reset them to factory specs and spray the inside of the carb with cleaner and see what happens. It runs perfect when warm so I hope I don't screw it up.
Posted
I have heard that one should spray WD40 around the area you think is leaking. Go slow and keep track of the number of turns you change the screws and you will be fine. Rick.........
Posted
Carb cleaner works just as good as starting fluid. I use carb cleaner in place of starting fluid, and starting fluid will also remove gasoline varnish. You may also want to check your spark plug to see that you have the correct heat range. You may have a plug that is a little too cold. First thing I would replace is the plug. Also check points. Rule of thumb: If it appears to be a fuel problem, check the ignition first, If it looks like an ignition problem, then check the fuel first. Engine problems can be very misleading.
Posted
MaxN, Just for the sake of it, change all the mounting gaskets for the carb and intake system. I was having a simular problem and decided that I had to have a leak somewhere. I already had the gasket paper so I made my own. It was like magic. Now I just Hit crank button an it starts. My gasket material was not real heavy but heavier than the orginals. I like it because it allows for more machining differences between the mateing surfaces. The POP POP is definately a lean condition caused by either fuel restriction or by a vacumme leak.
Posted
Sounds like my B-112 when the plug is dirty, which is after about 4 hours run time..I'd check it out, I've come to agree with Rod,""if you think its fuel, check the spark"..MPH
Posted
I checked carb settings, they were very close to factory specs. Started like crap as usual. Found some starting fluid and sprayed all over carb and carb/engine mount,when engine was cold and warm, but no changes noticed. After engine was warm I did richen the mixture some. The engine would sputter a bit during sudden acceleration, the richer mixture seems to have helped that. The clear fuel filter only has a small bit of fuel visable on the bottom. I took the fuel line off and there seems to be plenty of fuel flowing out. Its already pushing 70 outside so I'll have to wait untill morning to see if what little I've done made a difference. Thanks
Posted
Thinking out of the box per se......what does your air cleaner look like ???? and add some carb cleaner to your fuel also .....and what engine weight oil do you have in the engine ???and if you haven't recently try a new plug ..... You may actually be running to rich with a dirty airfilter and you may have fouled the plug .... So change/ clean the airfilter and replace the spark plug....then adjust the carb ! Good Luck Jim
Posted
I just got back from the parts store. I bought a new plug and a can of seafoam. The guy at the parts store makes seafoam sound like a miracle in a can. I've heard of it but just thought it was a gimmick, like many other things for engines that come in a can. What the heck, I put some in the tank and will run it today and try starting it in the morning when its cold again.
Posted
I don't know how they are supposed to start but yesterday at 28° I turned the key on my HB-212 with 30wt oil and the starter didn't turn more than ¼ turn and was running with no choke.
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Thank you to all who replied to my problem. This is the second fairly cold morning (40 degrees) in a row that its started great!! The first thing I did was put in a new plug, double checked the air cleaner, and fiddled again with the fuel mixture screws. I also added the seafoam and used it for a couple of hours. Next morning no improvement. Next day I checked the point gap. It was just a bit to wide, so I closed it to factory specs. Started it and it was now running a bit lean so I richened the mixture. I ran it a bit than shut it off. Came out 2 hours later and it started O.K. but not great. I assumed the engine and or air temp was still a bit warm, and my attempts had failed again. Parked it for the night. Yesterday morning, 38 degrees not expecting anything, I started it, and could tell immediatly it was fixed!! It didn't die, It didn't sputted and pop and I was able to increase engine speed almost immediatly without it dying!!! Same thing today!! I'm a happy man. Was it the points? And if so why did it run so bad while cold but great when warm? Could it have been the seafoam? I'm assuming it was the points and would never have had checked them without the advise of this forum. Thank you all very much.
Posted
I have never heard of the Seafoam. I take it that it is a type of fuel system cleaner.
Posted
HI Dale, according to the can it cleans fuel systems and removes carbon from the engine. You can also put it in the crankcase. The guy at the parts store sells alot of it to GM car/trucks and older tractor owners. I guess GM's suffer from stuck lifters and this cleans them up. I've been buying parts from this guy for years. He said he has seen so many engine related problems fixed by this stuff that he strongly recommends it.
Posted
I have used Seafoam in my tractors for over 20 years, also my outboards, never have fouled a plug. When I first purchsed my AC 620's I was fouling plugs on a regular basis. The stuff is great. Floyd
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