Roy Posted October 25, 2003 Posted October 25, 2003 Today I put new valve cover gaskets on, cleaned and lubed the starter drive with Lock-Eze, and then removed the cylinder heat shields to clean the fins. The R-H side fins, with the worst oil leak, were pretty well gooped up. The L-H side fins were fairly dry but plugged with dry grass. I'll give Kohler credit. It is fairly easy to R & R the valve covers and heat shields. But, this should not have been necessary on an engine with only 105 hours. It was caused by the leaky valve covers and the poor engine design and application by Simplicity and Kohler. The starter would have been easier if they had not cheaped out to save a couple of bolts. I had to tape the two end plates and main housing together to get it back on. They used the motor assembly bolts to hold the starter on the engine. Ditto on the starter Bendix (drive). The drive should not have become sticky so soon. I am concerned about the R-H cam lobe for the fuel pump. It looks like is has severe wear. There is a groove galled completely around the lobe. I put cam assembly lube on it but doubt that the lube will slow or stop the wear. It also seemed like the timing belt looser than it should be but the engine runs OK the way it is. Knowing what I know now about the new Sovereigns I would buy a Kubota next time. On a more positive note, the tractor runs and mows great. My experience,
fuzy Posted October 25, 2003 Posted October 25, 2003 I will check on monday but I thought I remember a service issue regarding all the items you are complaining about. I will let you know either way. John
Roy Posted November 3, 2003 Author Posted November 3, 2003 Fuzy, Did you remember to see what you could find? Thanks,
BillC Posted November 3, 2003 Posted November 3, 2003 Roy, The RH valve cover on my Kohler Triad OHC 18HP engine has leaked since new and I am in the process of replacing the gasket. For ease of inspection and cleaning of the cylinder cooling fins, Kohler offers an access panel kit, part no. 25-755-20, for both the Command OHV and Triad OHC engines. I have installed the kit on my OHC and I like it. The kit includes (2) cover plates, mounting clips, screws & hole template. In order to install the kit, the engine has to be removed from the tractor in order to cut the (2) access holes in the blower housing. You can also install an oil pressure switch kit with a dash mounted warning light, Kohler part no. 28-704-02. See the do-it-yourself section for my installation instructions. I am currently in the process of installing a oil temperature sensor with a dash-mounted warning light, using Kohler part no. 24-418-02S, which is a 255 degF open / 310 degF closed switch. Kohler also offers a 310 degF open / 350 degF closed switch, part no. 24-418-01S. Bill
Roy Posted November 3, 2003 Author Posted November 3, 2003 Bill, Thanks for the info. Where does the oil temp probe install on the engine? If I can get the oil leaks stopped the engine may not need the cleaning ports. In any event I am not eager to remove the engine to install them. I use compressed air to blow throgh the cooling system after I mow. But, when I removed the cylinder covers to clean the fins after putting the valve cover gaskets on the L-H cylinder did have an accumulation of grass clippings in the bottom fins. I think the OHC engines are an example of an "award winning design" that was not thoroughly field tested. Thanks again,
DaleC Posted November 4, 2003 Posted November 4, 2003 Spoken like a true Engineer Roy. It takes "the proving ground" of everyday use to make the real "award winning design" really work.
BillC Posted November 4, 2003 Posted November 4, 2003 Roy - The oil pressure switch screws into the pipe tap on the front of the oil filter base. There are black and green unused wires with female spade connectors by the oil filter. These wires connect to the oil pressure switch. The black wire is connected to the engine ground and the green wire runs to the engine electrical connector on the right hand side by the starter. You will have to mount a light in the dash, provide power to the light and run a green wire from the light to the engine electrical connector. The installation instructions are in the do-it-yourself section. Bill
fuzy Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 Roy, Sorry for the delay and I hate to be the bearer of bad news. I have found out a few things. First off the cam will need to be replaced. We have seen several of these failures. Some have been so bad that the fuel pump will no longer work. We are not sure if it was a heat treat issue or not. But the new cams definately have the distinctive "heat treating" coloring to them. In regards to the belt there is a proper way and torque setting to the belt. The sad part is the motor must be pulled. That would be a good time to replace the cam though. I have posted a copy of how to adjust it. The final thing to think about if you do pull the motor is that Kohler has an "enhancement" kit for that engine. It includes many of the parts in the timing belt area. Belt, Cam gear pulleys,etc. I think (but would need to check) that it also includes the belt tensioner, a dipstick tube, valve covers, service book, sealant, etc. It is supposed to "enhance" the engine. I think it means update a few issues. The kit is part # 28 755 37-S & I think it runs about $45.00. It might require special service tools and I can check that if you are interested. If you decide to put the cam in and/or the kit I can send you the parts if you wish. I hope this helps you. John
Roy Posted November 5, 2003 Author Posted November 5, 2003 BillC, Thanks for the info but it looks like I have more serious problems. Fuzy, This is not good news!! What about disabling the fuel pump and putting an electric fuel pump on? This would remove the need for the fuel pump cam lobe. Thanks,
fuzy Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 That would be an option. I am just in the habit of putting things back to their original state. An electric pump would probably be cheaper.
Roy Posted November 6, 2003 Author Posted November 6, 2003 Hummm. Looks like I need to figure out the best route to go. Tractor only has around 105 or so hours on it. I wonder if Kohler would warranty the fix? Bad part is that this is my good tractor and I need to use it. I'll have to get it fixed soon or hurry up on the 7013S.
DaleC Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 Roy, If you go to a parts house that still has part books and buyers guides, have them check the Carter book for this application. I don't know the pressure that you need but Carter makes a couple of universal fuel pumps that can be mounted in just about any configuation and will do a good job of supplying fuel at a low pressure.
BLT Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 What about a pulse pump like what is on the CH 20?( I have that on my Sunstar) All you really need to do is get a pulse (crankcase) pressure to run pump. As far as pump pressure to carb, all you need is enough flow to stay ahead of full load engine speed which is not much.
UCD Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 Napa sells an electric electronic pump for foreign cars that puts out between 3 & 5lbs. It is about 1 1/2in square x about 2 1/2in long. price is between 15 & 30 dollars. 1 wire to ground 1 wire to hot side of coil or to ign. switch. takes less than 20 min to install.
fuzy Posted November 7, 2003 Posted November 7, 2003 Probably would only get warranty within 2 years of purchase. Unless dealer works really hard on Kohler. John
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