ambler Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 I was putting a deck on a 7100 back in commision after new bearings. I RTVed the flange between the two plates as a moisture barrier. Found that the belt idler was frozen. I pulled one off another deck that worked better with some encouragement. Question: Do I just punch out the bushings and spacer? The old Idler doesn't have a grease fitting. It sure is quiet now.
fuzy Posted November 7, 2003 Posted November 7, 2003 Yes you should be able to drive them out, clean and relube and reassemble. Should work good then. Could add a grease zerk if you wanted. John
HubbardRA Posted November 7, 2003 Posted November 7, 2003 I just bought a new one at a local hardware store for $7.00 recently when the clutch idler on my 61 Wards siezed. It wasn't worth messing with at that price. I also used one of these hardware store idlers on the deck belt tensioner of my AC716. They work very well. By the way, neither of my idlers had removable bearings. Looked like the bearings had been inserted, and then the pulleys were spot welded together.
fuzy Posted November 7, 2003 Posted November 7, 2003 Ambler, I thought you meant the idler arm was frozen not the actual idler. Sorry. But yes you should be able to drive the bushing out of the pulley. John
ambler Posted November 9, 2003 Author Posted November 9, 2003 Thanks for the input. I was talking about the idler pivot. The idler pulley is fine. Rebuilt the deck in preparation for leaf removal. Spend this weekend building reciever on an old sears trailer. PTO hoses etc. I should fire it up this week and post some pocs.
MDB Posted November 9, 2003 Posted November 9, 2003 If you use neverseize on that idler bushing it won't cause any more problems as far as seizing up.:)
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