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Foot Dragging Running Board Tractor


Mack

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After seeing the posts on the AC 310 hydro lift question and FDT vs RBT debate I had to do some investigation.So I took the foot rests of a B 10 and held them under one of my 300 series tractors And it looks likes a pefrect fit! So it looks like the 312 Variable Speed (Best in the garden)Running Board Tractor is the likely candidate to become a FDRBT.
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I don't know Mack, there may be some here condemn you straight to hell for that...Maybe you should do a search of years gone by on FDT vs RBT first.. Personnel, I wouldn't blame you for helping it out...MPH
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Personally, I rather favor putting AC Homelite running boards on a B-210/212. Since the AC Homelite frames are the same as the 200 series, they would bolt right on. Just need to paint them yellow:D
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Well it looks like the ("WALL ASY.,front support AC part # 1602486)per AC 300 series parts catalog April.72 is a carry over part from AC 200 series and older.Could this not be a transitional changeover? Surly Hell is too strong a place... maybe?
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Well, I did say a couple of Hail Marys for the ham sandwitch that I had for lunch during Lent this past spring so I should be alright.If only I can be forgiven for a 1971 FDRBT transgression whith a few Our Fathers!
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Where do I fit with the aluminum foot plates from an old wheelchair bolted to the foot pegs of my 61 Wards. I guess I will be totally condemned by both factions.
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You short legged people need to realize that dragging feet is the only way to go. I think I have actually gotten taller by letting my feet hang. If they get caught under the wheel, I bet I get taller still.
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quote:
Originally posted by Mack
Well, I did say a couple of Hail Marys for the ham sandwitch that I had for lunch during Lent this past spring so I should be alright.If only I can be forgiven for a 1971 FDRBT transgression whith a few Our Fathers!
Top them off with a good Act of Contrition and resolve to never let it happen again. Genuflect on your way out, and Go In Peace. ;) Tacey
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I bought a 3110 with "running boards" I love it for snowblowing. With all the bulky clothes, it makes it a ot easier to get on and off.
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quote:
Originally posted by SmilinSam
Personally, I rather favor putting AC Homelite running boards on a B-210/212. Since the AC Homelite frames are the same as the 200 series, they would bolt right on. Just need to paint them yellow:D
Well, I'm not Catholic, but I don't know if there's any way of getting forgiveness for putting running boards on a foot-dragger... :D Maybe we're starting to understand why the Homelite brand name has really gone down the tubes over the years.... :)
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Originally posted by Kent Well, I'm not Catholic, but I don't know if there's any way of getting forgiveness for putting running boards on a foot-dragger... :D Maybe we're starting to understand why the Homelite brand name has really gone down the tubes over the years.... :)
:DOHHHHHHH .........do Offend![:0] Now he's insulted my Homelite, a factory footdraqgger turned RBT... Sir , you have insulted my honor.... Spring loaded lift rods at 20 paces? :D:D;)
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Originally posted by SmilinSam :DOHHHHHHH .........do Offend![:0] Now he's insulted my Homelite, a factory footdraqgger turned RBT... Sir , you have insulted my honor.... Spring loaded lift rods at 20 paces? :D:D;)
Spring loaded lift rods? Is that some "new-fangled" invention unique to RBTs or what? Real tractors didn't use spring-loaded lift rods, slow electric lifts, limp lift cables, or hydraulics that wouldn't work with the clutch/brake pedal in -- they had things like solid steel lift rods, real downpressure front and rear, front and rear counterweights to help "lighten the load", hydraulics that worked ALL the time, and had a float position for any implement, mounted anywhere.... :D Sir, I'm afraid you'd have an unfair advantage, since I've never owned nor used a spring-loaded lift rod... nor have I ever had the need for one.... 8D8D8D
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Originally posted by Kent Spring loaded lift rods? Is that some "new-fangled" invention unique to RBTs or what? Real tractors didn't use spring-loaded lift rods, slow electric lifts, limp lift cables, or hydraulics that wouldn't work with the clutch/brake pedal in -- they had things like solid steel lift rods, real downpressure front and rear, front and rear counterweights to help "lighten the load", hydraulics that worked ALL the time, and had a float position for any implement, mounted anywhere.... :D Sir, I'm afraid you'd have an unfair advantage, since I've never owned nor used a spring-loaded lift rod... nor have I ever had the need for one.... 8D8D8D
Oh Ho! :D Get a load of this now.... Now I 'm not even driving a "REAL" tractor[:0]B) Sir, While my tractors are gulity of all your accusations, they do have their fine points to consider, You don't have to disassemble the upper end of the tractor to access your driveshaft or steering gears, neither do you have to be double jointed or ambidexterous to unhook your driveshaft to replace a starter /Gen belt, nor do you have to unbolt the hood to service your battery or change spark plugs, steering wheels don't have to be beat or pulled off, headlights are neatly tucked inside so you don't knock them off while trying to get up close to something, and fuel tanks are made of plastic so they don't rust, and they hold more gas to get more work done before refueling, nor do the center pto's have problems staying shut off. Even so.. I must concede that I will have to rebuild my 3212 with its hydro lift to verify myself the claims you have made of your machine...to be fair of course.|)
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Originally posted by SmilinSam You don't have to disassemble the upper end of the tractor to access your driveshaft or steering gears, neither do you have to be double jointed or ambidexterous to unhook your driveshaft to replace a starter /Gen belt, nor do you have to unbolt the hood to service your battery or change spark plugs, steering wheels don't have to be beat or pulled off,
And, as any gentleman would, I will concede those points. But, since I switch implements from one end of the tractor to another (along with the appropriate counterweight) much more often than I switch steering gears, starter/generator belts or driveshafts, I guess I'll just live with those limitations... Are there some reliability issues with these new inventions you seem to like so much? Do they not keep the battery charged with their puny built-in alternators? Do they need more frequent tuneups than the old reliable Briggs one-lungers?
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headlights are neatly tucked inside so you don't knock them off while trying to get up close to something,
Careful -- maybe you're so comfortable with those running boards that you tend to doze off at the wheel or something.... don't they have some complicated safety switch or interlock to prevent that? You know, something else to fail and significantly increase the troubleshooting headaches... And here I thought they were supposed to be so much safer....
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and fuel tanks are made of plastic so they don't rust, and they hold more gas to get more work done before refueling,
Well, since the old single-cylinders don't drink nearly as much gas as those new-fangled twins, do you really wanna talk about refueling and why they need those big plastic fuel tanks?
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... nor do the center pto's have problems staying shut off.
Lemme see... a $15 belt and an occasional adjustment or a $70 cone clutch that can't be serviced or adjusted.... Hmmm... Modern marvels, I guess! I guess I just must be old-fashioned and like Simple trACtors... To each their own! :X:X:X
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Egads! It must sure be a slow day where you two are!! But dang it, you sure make me laugh after a long day in the "rock bucket"! Thanks Kent and Sam! Larry
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This on going fit of laughter has me glad I am sitting in a cushy leather chair with arms8D If i wasn't I would be under the desk or somewhare on the floor because I would have fallen out or off any other chair:D:D:D I ride the fence I have a B10 a B110 and a 312h and got my eye on a 410 all ac of course:) Thanks for the:D:D:D
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Ummmm, Kent..... Didn't you deliberately convert one of your beloved FDTs to a Sundstrand w/cone clutch??? That had to be in the persuit of pure empirical data...... Ahhh Yes... Science at its finest!!
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quote:
Originally posted by Kent Are there some reliability issues with these new inventions you seem to like so much? Do they not keep the battery charged with their puny built-in alternators? Do they need more frequent tuneups than the old reliable Briggs one-lungers?
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headlights are neatly tucked inside so you don't knock them off while trying to get up close to something,
Careful -- maybe you're so comfortable with those running boards that you tend to doze off at the wheel or something.... don't they have some complicated safety switch or interlock to prevent that? You know, something else to fail and significantly increase the troubleshooting headaches... And here I thought they were supposed to be so much safer....
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and fuel tanks are made of plastic so they don't rust, and they hold more gas to get more work done before refueling,
Well, since the old single-cylinders don't drink nearly as much gas as those new-fangled twins, do you really wanna talk about refueling and why they need those big plastic fuel tanks?
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... nor do the center pto's have problems staying shut off.
Lemme see... a $15 belt and an occasional adjustment or a $70 cone clutch that can't be serviced or adjusted.... Hmmm... Modern marvels, I guess! I guess I just must be old-fashioned and like Simple trACtors... To each their own! :X:X:X
:DMy dear Gentleman, your attempts to slay my Running board TRACTORS shall be yet to no avail.... Indeed these machines have proved to me to be more reliable and less complicated than their Neanderthal predecessors. My "puny" built in alternators have never failed in their task and have simplified the charging system wiring and eliminated excess components. My 16 horsepower Briggs Singles have more power and use just as little gas as your antiquated 12 hp versions. My Briggs use electronic ignition , thus I never need to do more than change a spark plug. Easier to start and no time needed for periodic points maintinance. My safety interlock system is quite simple if one takes the time to understand it. For a experienced and professional operator Diagnosing a interlock problem takes 2 minutes at best. My interlock system is quite useful given aging and more forgetful operators want to continue safely running a truly fine machine into their golden years...
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Lemme see... a $15 belt and an occasional adjustment or a $70 cone clutch that can't be serviced or adjusted.... Hmmm... Modern marvels, I guess!
Is that why you put a cone clutch on your Footdragger?:D
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I have both. I like both. I use both. Does that make me bi-tractural? Both have their good features. Both have their drawbacks. Both were built by Simplicity or AC. Neither is a Deere or Cub Cadet! I rest my case.
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This thread has inspired me to start a website for 'the rest of us'. For people who own this type of tractor... http://warnersdock.com/images/Lawn/98landlord1650.JPG Hmmmmm, now what shall it be called??? I don't know, maybe "GizmoladenpriceyUsta'BeSimplefootballhelmutstyledgirlylawnmowers" Has a ring to it... :D Tacey
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Indeed these machines have proved to me to be more reliable and less complicated than their Neanderthal predecessors.
Neanderthals? Though they may be somewhat related, the Neanderthals were generally known as "knuckle-draggers" and not "foot-draggers." Methinks you have us confused, Sir!
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My "puny" built in alternators have never failed in their task and have simplified the charging system wiring and eliminated excess components.
Perhaps so, but I find the sound of a gear-drive flywheel starting system about as pleasant as listening to a Tecumseh with a rod-knocking and just looking for a convenient place to exit the engine block.... Plus, I like to be able to simply grab the starter/generator belt and pulley and turn it slightly when I need to align something rather than spend 5 minutes "bumping" a starter, hoping the engine will stop its rotation in the correct spot... Never had any luck on a roulette wheel either... :(
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My 16 horsepower Briggs Singles have more power and use just as little gas as your antiquated 12 hp versions. My Briggs use electronic ignition , thus I never need to do more than change a spark plug. Easier to start and no time needed for periodic points maintinance.
Just so happens that one of those engines will bolt right into a "foot-dragger" without requiring that you "throw out the baby with the bath-water" or "sacrifice your principles..."
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My interlock system is quite useful given aging and more forgetful operators want to continue safely running a truly fine machine into their golden years...
Thank you, Sir, for offering such personal empirical evidence to support your position. Hopefully, your "lessons learned" at the "school of hard knocks" were't too painful, and soon healed, leaving few permanent scars.... Enjoy those golden years! Personally, I think "experience is the worst teacher" -- it always gives you the test before it tells you the correct answer.... :D
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Plus, I like to be able to simply grab the starter/generator belt and pulley and turn it slightly when I need to align something rather than spend 5 minutes "bumping" a starter, hoping the engine will stop its rotation in the correct spot...
No... no... No....... You greenhorns just don't know what your doin there.:o) All you need to do is reach under the tractor and rotate the driveshaft by hand.8)
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Just so happens that one of those engines will bolt right into a "foot-dragger" without requiring that you "throw out the baby with the bath-water" or "sacrifice your principles..."
Been there done that:D about to do it again;) I'll conced the usefulness of FTD's on certain occasions, but I'm too spolied by the niceties of the RBT's. I'm afraid the best we can hope for in my case is a mixed machine. 3212H Re-decaled as a 3116H with a old style hydrolift , a Sundstrand tranny with new type controls, and both types of PTO's. ...and I'll leave off the running boards.... for now.....:D We'd better quit before we get the NDST guys arguing with the DST guys...[:0]
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