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Will a lift hitch with solid rod work on 3310?

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Orange
I recently got a rear lift hitch assembly off of an AC 310 that has a lift rod instead of a cable. My 7016H has a cable so I am guessing my 3310H will need a cable lift too, but would the solid rod work? If not, who wants to trade? Thanks for your advice. John

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dirtsaver
John you might try the rod on your tractor but I think the problem will be either in the length or in clearing the hydro unit. As long as it fits and clears everything you should be ok. Just watch the down pressure and don't bust a seal or something inside the pump. Sam or one of the "engineers" here can most likely shed more light on this. Larry

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rokon2813
I just today pulled a cable out of a 912 Hydro for customer. i didnt see enough room in that one for a rod and the connection point was wrong too. You can give it a shot but I personally dont think it will work.

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UCD
If I remember right one of the differences between the 300 and 400 series Allis Chalmers and simplicity tractors was a difference in the way attachments connected to the tractor as they were not supposed to be interchangeable. One of these differences was the size of the sleeve in the rear lift to accept the lift point rod of the rear attachment. In other words the lift might fit the tractor but the attachments wont fit the lift.

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MPH
Is your 3310 hydralic lift or electric? The electric on my 3314 had a rod, which I sent to some Club member long ago, but the rod has a slipping type yoke on one end if I recall rt. so you don't burn up the lift with downpressure..MPH

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thedaddycat
Almost.... The 3310 H uses a Vickers hydro which will not power a hydraulic lift like the Sundstrand hydro will. There is no room or mounting point in the RBT frame for the old style hydraulic lift, either.... The choices were powered by the battery or powered by "Armstrong". The yoke is meant to allow the rear implement to float and not allow you to get downpressure. The electric lift has a type of slip disc clutch where once it gets end-of-travel it will not go any farther but will sit there and "click" as long as you hold the switch, but the force of the attachment kicking up will not cause it to travel backwards. This applies to either up or down travel. I looked under my 3310 H with a manual lift and it lacks the pulleys and mounting holes for their brackets. This machine still has original paint and though nobody can ever really be sure(unless you have a direct line of ownership), I'm fairly certain that this one is still "Factory Issue" except for normal wear items like the battery or tires. This one has a rear lift with the stepped left side collar and a hole for a Brinley hitch lift rod, but had no rod or cable to attach the rear lift to lift shaft.... The yoked rod is present on the first Simplicity I ever owned(and still have) which is a 3310 V with the electric lift. Based on these two examples and the testimony of our "Brother in Orange" to the North, I would think that a yoked rod would be the right one for your 3310 H. Now this just my thinking based on what's been presented, but I can go look at the other two 3310 V tractors to see what they have if you want me to.... BTW, I posted somewhere about the two different rear hitches on these two tractors a while ago. I tried a quick search but couldn't find it right off. Maybe someone else can find it? These are both 3300 series tractors, my thinking was that Simplicity was using up the last of the old stock on the early ones and then switched. If you find the post you'll see what I mean....

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Kent
Unless, I'm mistaken the 3300 series used a solid rod -- but that rod had was in two pieces with an interlocking loop on the end of each piece that allowed the "float"... Is this what you're calling a yoked rod, Kirk? The 3400 series was the first one with cable lift, I think...

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thedaddycat
Yes, the two loops form interlocking "U" shapes on the ends of the rod sections. I guess that "yoked" is maybe not exactly the correct term, but it was late..... The 3400 did go to the cable.

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SmilinSam
300/400 AC lifts may not work on a 3300 or newer series Simplicity. The lift is shaped to be higher up at the lift rod attaching point. The rod is also a different shape and possibly length. You can try it but I would be skeptical as to it working.

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HubbardRA
It may take some finagling, but you can make a rod work on most of the tractors if there is a hole in the frame to run the larger rod through. I mounted the rod and rear lift off of my 61 Wards on my 77 AC716H. Had to add a piece onto the front to give it the additional four inches of length to match the longer wheelbase. Also had to bend a Z offset into it to run it through the right side of the frame and hook to the right lift arm underneath. It worked pretty well, but it took a lot of trial and error to get it right. I'm actually planning to convert it to cable and put the solid rod mechanism back on the Wards.

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thedaddycat
Now this one is new to me, but Pat Rarick sent me this link in which fellow member Karl Brandt drilled and tapped ports in his Vickers and added hydraulics and controls. I wasn't aware you could do that, a big thanks to you Pat and Nice Job Karl!! http://www.simplicityva.com/winter/hydraulic.html

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