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BigOrange

Amp Gauge....... HELP!!!

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BigOrange
I've got everything hooked up and running just fine on my big ten. except my amp gauge. Every time I hook the wire to the batt. terminal on the regulator I get a giant spark. I've got the other amp wire running to the starter button where the positive cable meets it. I just bought another regulator and polarized it properly and when I hooked up the wire bang another spark! What gives?

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MikeES
One idea....If you have removed the amp gauge and reinstalled it, maybe you missed the plastic isolation washers. The older tractors used a metal u-clamp to hold the gauge in place. This must be insulated from the posts of the amp gauge. Nothing on the amp gauge posts should touch anything grounded.

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BigOrange
Thanks Mike I see in the wiring diagram a fuse. I don't think mine ever had one, do I neen one? Even if I sit the gauge on plastic out of the tractor and hook up the two wires it sparks.

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Dadsy98
John, Try an continuity check between the BAT terminal and chassis ground. Should be open. Then try the same check on the wiring harness-- the wire that you would connect to the BAT terminal. This too, should be open. Steve

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BigOrange
The wire coming from the amp gauge is hot it turns on the test light when touched to a ground. The batt. terminal is not hot,is this right?When I touch the amp gauge wire to the batt. terminal it almost trys to turn the ebgine over. But if I don't connect the batt wire everything seems to be cool.

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Dadsy98
Seems like a wiring issue. When you tried the gauge, on plastic, did you use some different wire to make the connections? The ammeter circuit is just a straight connection between the regulator BAT terminal and the battery. Electrically, a single wire between these two points is equal. The gauge is placed there for us humans. Steve

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DaleC
If I am not mistaken, the Amp meter is wired into the charging circuit. It sounds like you have it wired into the hot circuit. It seems like they are one in the same, but I think that the amp meter is hooked in conjuction with the regulator.

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MPH
We have two different wireing digrams here, The second one is like the votage reg on my 725 and the 16hp briggs I scored, the first is like my Landlord, no wire from underside of regulator. As my Landlord came without a S/G, I took the one off the 16hp briggs for use on it, should I also use that regulator??I left the OEM on it as I will need to drill a new hole to mount the narrower one. Might this mess up the 'newer' S/G? thanks MPH

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BLT
Marty, both diagrahms are the same in function. However, the fist one shows the ground wire on the regulator and Maynards does not and on Maynards there is a light terminal shown and the first there is not. There should be a ground (bonding) wire on all the regulators as all the circuits are chassis ground. All regulators of that type had only room for three terminals off the side and when the light terminal was added, the field terminal was put in underneath. Go ahead and try your existing regulator. Don't forget to polarize everything. I think the worse that can happen, is that your ameter will flucuate a bit. Even with that in mind, connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals and observe to see if there is any increase in voltage. That will tell if anything is going back to the battery. BLT

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