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maxtorman1234

Kohler k341

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maxtorman1234
Hi, I have been running my 416H on a carb from a k301. Just recently it has started backfiring and stalling. I got the proper carb cleaned out, and it does the same thing still. It seems to do it more when I run it at 1/2 throttle or higher. THe points are set right, the valves are set and so is the carb. Does anybody know why it is doing this? THanks

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PatRarick
If the fuel flow is fine, I would time the ignition next. Point setting will affect engine timing, and sometimes, merely setting to the recommended gap is not enough. If that doesn't cure the problem, I would be looking for carbon on one or both valves, causing them to stick. Pat

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maxtorman1234
THe gas line is not plugged, We think the timing is alright, because it used to run when we got it, just one night it started backfiring, then it ran alright the next day until the night. Now it keeps wanting to backfire and stall when im using it.

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Al
Hi, I agree with the above. I would change the plug. Even if it corrects the problem, I would check the spark and see how strong it is. You may have a bad condensor or coil problem, and have a spark that is deteriorating at higher speed. Also check that the condensor is connected to the Neg term of the coil and that it is connected to the wire that goes to the points. I have seen the condensor connected to the wrong side more than once. Once on a combine that the owner fought for 2 years. A couple of thoughts. Al Eden

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HubbardRA
The condenser could have failed in the open condition )like nothing there). I had one Kohler that I started, but couldn't get it to smooth out. It spit, sputtered, backfired, and did everything except run right. I called a friend who built Pro Stock pulling engines from Kohlers. He told me to check the condenser. Guess what, there wasn't one but it would run anyway, just not right. So I would try a new condenser before anything else.

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Guest
Graham, Deja vu. My tractor started in doing the very same thing about a month ago. A kindly club member worked me through all thats been posted...with one exception...when checking the plug (spark)cranking it over, i would get a good spark...yet the problem is with high RPMs .....long of the short, brought it to my engine guru....coil. Picking it up tommorrow, runs like a sewing machine. After i rebuilt carb, put on new points and condenser, the coil was the culprit. ok i see now Al mentions this in his reply.....shoulve known.:) Good luck DougM

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maxtorman1234
The only problem with that is it has the ACR(automatic compression release) and is hard to check compression. Hope it's something simple because it didnt do it when we first got it, and I havvnt changed anything. its starting to bother mexx(

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Al
Hi, I suspect the valve guys may be on the right trail. Something could be bent on the compression relief. I wouldn't expect that to cause the backfiring. Briggs uses a fixed bump on the cam and even when it lifts the valves at high speed they say it results in little or no measurable power loss. You should see about 50 to 75 lbs cranking with the comp release working. Measure this with a guage with little or no hose with the valve at the spark plug adaptor. Using a guage with a long hose as autos do results in low readings as the volume of the hose adds to the combustion chamber volume and reduces the compression ratio. If the valve were in the end of the hose [like the push in steel pipe ones] instead of at the guage after several revolutions it would read correctly. You can look at the compression relief by taking the cover off the timing gear. I have replaced the hairpin springs this way. When they break the release won't work and the starter won't turn it over compression jumps to around 125 to 140. I have also adjusted the tab up on units that had too much compression, because the tab didn't lift the valve enough due to wear on the tab. My thoughts would lean to carbon and varnish on the valve stems or a weak valve spring. Either could cause the valves not to close properly at higher RPM. Good luck, My present thoughts, they are free, value accordingly. Good luck, Al Eden

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maxtorman1234
I adjusted the governer, and it dosent backfire as bad, it stays running but is hard to start. I cant get it to idle properly but at least it stays running. Any more Ideas? Thanks

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maxtorman1234
Ok, Im finally getting somewhere, My starter jammed while I was using the tractor somehow and the nut and washers flew off. They were making a grinding noise so I had to take the motor out. While removing the shroud, I discovered the fins were almost totally plugged. The engine must simpy be overheating. Ill have it back together tomorrow and try it. The bearing plate is almost eaten through with years of dirt and moisture in there. Heres what I found in the fins,

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maxtorman1234
Its not the head gasket either, My dad spoke to a mechanic that has worked on small engines for 15 years. He thinks it is a weak spark or something wrong with the ignition. We ordered new points/condenser. Ill install them tomorrow and see how it works:D

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maxtorman1234
Points do make a big difference, havent gotten the new ones yet but old ones improve it. It starts easier and runs better at low throttle. THe flywheel was junk and ate the gear on the starter. I had to take the engine out and pull the flywheel and replaced it with the good one from the 310. I was putting the cover back on the camshaft gear, and broke a bolt in the block. Im really thinking of giving up on this thing and taking the 12hp from the 712 and putting it in it. Should I do this?

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