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Karl_Brandt

AC B-12 loader update

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Karl_Brandt
I got the tractor running and finished the back of the loader frame. Later I will add do more work on the tractor. I found out why the wheel was loose on the hub. 1Hub was welded with brass and cracked. 2Axle shaft key way was worn out. 3Diferential pinions worn out. 4Wheel hub & gear had broken teeth. 5Differential gear also had broken teeth. Replaced the parts form a spare transmission. [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/karl_brandt/Hpim0033.jpg[/img] Need to replace some more hydraulic lines on the bucket and a line for the cylinders.;);)

The loader is almost half way up,need to make one hydraulic line longer on the cylinder.

I have started to make the weight box...waiting till after xmas.:o):D Karl [url]www.simplictyva.com[/url]

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KenK
Boy that is a mighty fine looking machine.Isn't it neat how a person can find all those worn parts when he get looking.Are you going to keep the wide tires on front or go with some narrower ones?

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Kent
quote:
Originally posted by KenK
Boy that is a mighty fine looking machine.Isn't it neat how a person can find all those worn parts when he get looking.Are you going to keep the wide tires on front or go with some narrower ones?
I'd recommend narrow tri-ribs and the flat bearing "upgrade" for the front spindles, to improve the steering. It makes a big difference! I also converted my 2012 back to the older 9HP Landlord (early B-10) style castiron round steering sector instead of the newer "pie-shaped ones". You have to turn the steering wheel farther (the gear ratio is lower) but it also reduced the effort required to steer it. No longer is steering it a 2-handed effort when you have a full bucket. Note that you must swap out steering shaft, steering gear and steering sector for this modification....

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Karl_Brandt
quote:
I also converted my 2012 back to the older 9HP Landlord (early B-10) style castiron round steering sector instead of the newer "pie-shaped ones". You have to turn the steering wheel farther (the gear ratio is lower) but it also reduced the effort required to steer it. No longer is steering it a 2-handed effort when you have a full bucket. Note that you must swap out steering shaft, steering gear and steering sector for this modification....
I will try the narrower tires,I think there is a spare set of these rims. Kent,I was thinking about doing that....just happen to have the spare parts from a early AC B-10 tractor. Sure is nice to have spare parts.;);)
quote:
Looks good, can you still use a mower deck with the loader on it ?
Eric no the mower deck will not fit on the tractor when the loader is on.;)

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Karl_Brandt
quote:
Hey karl . I want to buld a front loader. I have the drawing for the loader.but no measurment to go by. wood it be possible if you could get me all the measurement. the drawing came off this site.
Tony, This is not the a Allis Chalmers loader. This loader [is one of a kind]made in Fort Erie,Ontario,Canada,at a metal shop.:D This loader looks stronger than the AC loader. Karl

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Kent
One last suggestion Karl, as you start to build your weight box. Someone had already hacked up my factory weight box with a torch when I got it. They raised it (for ground clearance, I guess) to where the bottom of the box sits on the extended subframe (and cut almost 6" off the height, I'd guesstimate). I braced it by running two pieces of angle iron down to the two bottom rear hitch pins, and pinned it there. To remove it, you remove two bolts (instead of the factory four) and two hitch pins. What this did was tie the whole rearend of the subframe tightly to the tractro's transmission and frame rails. Until I added these two reinforcing bars, the weight box (when filled with 300 lbs or so) would wiggle a little bit on the back of the tractor, as you were moving -- especially with a full bucket. It's much more solid now and doesn't move at all. Also, weld yourself a trailer hitch point onto the back of the weightbox, while you're at it. Comes in handy to hitch a chain or something to, also.... Just some ideas....

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