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Need a Briggs Vanguard Doctor....(pics added)


SmilinSam

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Model 303777 type 0127-01 3060 Code 89031311 Vertical shaft model 16 hp Twin Ran while you squirted gas in the carb, but only a few seconds until gas was used up. Obvious problem is Fuel shut off solenoid has the wire torn out, so its no good. Last time I had this scenario it was on a horizontal shaft version about 8 years newer. I simply pulled the lunger out and cut it off. Easy task as the solenois was mounted in the side of the carb. This one is mounted directly below the bowl and serves to hold the bowl on too. Once removed this one is not like the other. cant pulle theplunger out , and from the design I'm not even sure how this one is supposed to function. It has 1/2" of threads with a space in the middle and 4 holes opposite each other in that space. Inside the hole in the carb that it screws into are more holes. Any way around having to buy a new one? Also, I need to check out the float valve, but cant see where the pin comes out to remove the float. Whats the procedure there with the plastic float? Forgive the ignorance, as I rarely get blessed with this late 80's or newer stuff to work on......
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Sam, I cant answer your questions yet but I do have 3 vertical 16 twins in the engine shed. I'll take a look tomorrow and see if I have anything like the numbers you have and see whats up with them if I do. I'm not sure if any of mine are new enough to have the fuel solenoid or not. If you dont get an answer from someone else quicker, I'll get back to you.
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Sam, I had a vertical shaft Vanguard with the same problem. I drilled out the needle. I drilled through the side holes then drilled down the middle hole till the piece fell out. It ran but needed choke all of the time, so I took a very small drill bit and cleaned out the main jet. It is still running fine on a tractor that I sold to a friend. I know I removed the float at the time, but my CRS is acting up so I can't tell you how. I think there was a spring that held the pin in the float, but I'm not sure.
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Sam, It seems that on one I worked on, the float was a snap fit. You probably can just "pop it off" of the mount it is fastened to. Look at it close and remember that you don't want to force it, get a bigger hammer.:D
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I drilled out the plunger. Looks to me like it only stopped off the bottom 2 holes. I mounted the engine in th tractor and cleaned the fins out . Tomorrow I'll plumb the fuel lines and wire it and hook up the contol cables and see if it will run. Compression checked it at 125 lbs on one cylinder and 120 lbs on the other. Bad?, Good?, in between? There is a junction block that has a wire going to it from each mag and a empty tab. I asume thats where I hook my kill wire from the wiring harness?
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Hi, Be careful with some of these carbs when you try to remove the float. It is very easy to break of the post the float hinge pin goes through, as the pins can be extremely tight. Drilling out the solenoid will work. The purpose of this solenoid is to prevent afterfire on shut down. [Cure for BSS Brown Seat Syndrome] Regarding the wire between the coils, this harness has 2 diodes in it. You are correct the tab is the kill line. If you ground this tab and the engine continues to run on one cyl, one of the diodes is open. A shorted diode can cause no spark or wierd misfiring. If the compression gets very much higher, you need to adjust the tappets, so the compression relief is functioning properly. And the starter is not overloaded and having problems cranking the engine. My 2 cents worth and its free, value accordingly. Al Eden
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Thanks Al, I left the float alone since the valve does not seem to be stuck and reassembled. I'll giver here try tonight and see if it works right..
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It Lives and it lives well! No smoke either. Nice and smooth. No w to make you all sick, I got the engine for Free in a trashed Noma 4 wheel Steer job last year. I got the tractor I put it in for free a couple of weeks ago.. and if that news didn't make ya sick, the pictures may have a better chance of finishing the job..:D [img]http://a3.cpimg.com/image/9F/36/28118943-ac0f-01C80186-B.jpg[/img] [img]http://a2.cpimg.com/image/9E/36/28118942-ac55-01E40148-BB.jpg[/img]
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I have an 18HP twin and 8 HP horizontal shaft Briggs and a 10 HP Tecumseh snowblower engine and a 12 HP (3/4 complete)Brigss vertical under the conditions you got yours. Re-rung the 18 and 12 and other then that, they are the way I got them.
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Sam, did you clean all the good tractors outta your neck of the country? Seems you been scoring mostly other brands lately.. MPH
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quote:
Originally posted by MPH
Sam, did you clean all the good tractors outta your neck of the country? Seems you been scoring mostly other brands lately.. MPH
I'm beginning to think so. Either that or it just runs in cycles. Two years ago the first tractor of the year was a Simplcity. Was mostly Simplcity & AC all year. LAst year the first tractor was a Wheel Horse. Was Mostly Wheel horse about all year last year. First tractor this year was a Cub Cadet 682. Suppose it'll be mostly all Cadets this year?
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Sam, I got the 14 Hp Vanguard that I had, for free. It was in an old Hechinger tractor that was in bad shape and the guy wanted it hauled off. I first put it in a Murray that my son-in-law broke. I then put it in a Sears that I was given by a guy who was going to throw it away at the dump. We unloaded it from his vehicle into mine. I then sold the Sears to a friend. He is still using it and says it runs great.
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