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7013 no spark


surviver2003

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Purchased a 7013S that the engine wouldn't start. Pulled the engine, cleaned out a large mouse nest plus a lot of other gunk and dirt. Engine is sitting on my work bench and there is no spark. Gap between coil and rotor seems fine and the magnet seems to be plenty strong. The points are gapped ok ( not sure how the points have anything to do with the engine firing? Maybe someone could explain this.). Before I go buying a new coil, (don't think they would let me return it if it isn't the problem), any ideas on how to test the coil or what I'm not doing right or wrong. Thanks -- Bob.
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The points tell the coil when to fire by grounding the secondery circut momentarily via the small wire comeing off the coil going to the pointes and kill switch. If you've had rats in the shroud check and make shure they did'nt chew through the insulation on any wires then trace the wire to the points to insure nothing is grounded. This wire must not be grounded outside or inside of the points box. Check the insulater on the points and outside the box where the kill switch connects. Finally and most likely the points are rusty or pitted and won't work. You can file these with a point file or some emery cloth to shine them up and they will probably work. But if they are the problem you best change them rather than them be a constant sorce of problems.
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The points are what cause the spark to fire at just the right time. The points should be set at .020 at the open position. Note that they are closed most of the time. Before buying a coil check your condenser that can also go. Also check any wires that could of been chewed by those mice. And after that if you dont have a spark then it most likely is the coil.
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Make sure there are no breaks in the insulation on the small wire going from the coil to the points, since there's been a mouse in there. Found that on an old 10HP and spliced in a section of wire. Also make sure the wire isn't grounding out where the cover for the points clamps down around it. Had that happen a couple of times, too, because of bad insulation... wrapped it well in electrical tape and off she went....
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Yea gearhead. They say great minds think alike, however in my case it's more like (even a blind squirrel gets a nut every once in awhile):D:D
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This site has many great posts and articles on the details of how ignition systems work. I have searched thru the forums many times for help! One that may be of interest [url]http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/ignition.htm[/url]
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Bob, I recorded continuity and ohm readings from a brand new Briggs armature that I refer to when testing a used armature. However, I can't locate them right now. If you want to quickly determine where the problem is, connect one of those electronic triggers ($10-15). The trigger will bypass your points & condenser. If you still don't have spark, the problem is beyond the points.
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Thanks everyone. It's too cold in my unheated barn to tinker with it evenings, but maybe this weekend I'll have the time and it'll be a little warmer during the day. With all the info. you've provided I think I can get it running. Will let you know. Bob
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