Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

  • Announcements

    • Kent

      Sign In or Password Problems?   10/09/2016

      If you can't Sign In, you need to reset your password.  Use the Forgot Your Password link at the bottom of the Sign In screen, and the site will send you an email to reset it. If you have an AOL email account, use the Contact Us link at the bottom of the screen -- AOL is intermittently blocking email from the site.
    • Kent

      Feedback Please!   10/28/2017

      See News and Announcements forum.
Sign in to follow this  
Guest

3112H Rear Lift - holes don't seem to line

Recommended Posts

Guest
I have a 3112H and I'm trying to mount a rear lift. I have the parts, but the holes on the 3112H don't seem to match directly across. The left hole (driver's left hand) is bigger and it doesn't line up to the small hole on the right. Is this correct for the 3112H or are the brackets I am using misaligned? I could retrofit these holes, but I want to keep the tractor as "stock" as possible. Any ideas?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thedaddycat
Maynard, that's a nice drawing and it shows a newer version of the rear lift(I've posted details of the differences before) but I have to second Brian. All the tractors I've had or checked out had the larger hole on the left side as viewed from the rear. Another thing I've found is that only the one collar is stepped, not both as shown there. I don't know what the reason is for the differences, unless that drawing is for something like maybe a 7100 series or newer??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Maynard, Looking at your picture, I can't see what keeps the assembly from moving to the right and allowing the collar to fall out of the large hole. Shouldn't one of the collars be on the opposite side of the hitch bar than that shown. Either one can be moved to stop side-to-side movement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Maynard, I asked the question relative to the homemade lift that I rigged for mine. The first picture shows both collars to the right sides of the bars. What keeps the entire assembly from sliding to the right side. I put my right side collar on the inside along with the left. In other words both collars need to either be inside the bars or both collars should be outside the bars. This will hold the shaft in the left-right direction. The only way the illustration will work as-is if with a tiller bearing assembly attached to prevent the shaft from moving to the right. If the tiller bearings are not present, then one of these collars must be moved to hold the shaft in place.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
UCD
Rod As i said above the picture I posted was out of the manual and must of been one of Simplicity's mistakes in printing the manual. In what you say is the correct way. "both collars need to either be inside the bars or both collars should be outside the bars. This will hold the shaft in the left-right direction." Revised drawing (the way it should be)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Maynard, I was not criticizing you. I found the same thing when I looked it up. As I said, this must be the mounting with a tiller pulley. I don't have a tiller, so I don't really know. Not the first misprint I've found. I don't know if you remember the locked diff problem that I had because of assembling from the book. I think I'll go back to my old ways: "only look in the book when I can't get to work otherwise". Main reason I was asking is that I have three tractors and only one lift assembly. Want to make a couple. Also I want to make a couple of the removable hitches. Just wanted to be sure the hitches will be compatible with other tractors. I may want to sell a couple.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Mack
I have tried to print off some pages of a 700 series hydro rear lift set up for a friend and the pages printed off backwards.This was a PDF file from the Simplicity Tech. Pub. site.Possibly the scans were made from microfiche that were put on scaner backwards?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PatRarick
Brian, the 2210/B-110 and 3112/B-112 were the last to have the small hole on the left (driver's side) The 3210/B-210 and the 3212/B-212 had the larger hole. Mike's statement that there is a larger hole on the left on his 3112 leads me to believe one of three things: 1. - The change occured in the late 3112's. 2. - The left side upright on his tractor was replaced with one from a newer tractor. 3. - Since the holes on his tractor do not line up, someone has enlarged the original hole at one time and did not line it up correctly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bunky
Well My 3210V and 210 had the small holes and I believe the 3212H I just sold had the Small holes... I'm not sure I guess I thought they started the larger holes on the 3300 series.. Just my thinking maybe...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PatRarick
Sounds like we're on to a mystery. I have 2 B-210's, a B-212, an HB-212, and a 3210V. All have the large hole. Also have a B-110 (early model), a B-112 (later model)and a 3112V. All have the small hole. I'm basing my B-110 as early because of the push button starting system, and the B-112 as late because of the ignition switch (relay) starting system. Wonder what the scoop is on these? Perhaps production of those series overlapped for a time and the change was made in a certain year? Perhaps a difference in those that were produced in Lexington and Port Washington? Pat

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
WOW thanks for the replies. The hole looks original, but perhaps it has a mix of parts on this restoration. I'll plan on taking a picture this weekend and try to take some measurements. Perhaps someone has a 3112H which they can compare to while I do some more home work? BTW: I have an original untouched B112 with 48" deck and sickle bar (though the sickle bar is a Simplicity) if we ever need measurements. I also have a 3012 which looks mostly original too. I'm hoping to convert the 3012 to a hydrolic once I get the 3112H able to replace my 3012. The 3012 is my plow beater machine and the B112 I only use to cut the grass. Again thanks for the replies. Michael G.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
After looking at the three tractors that I have, it appears that the large hole should be on the left side when looking from the rear. This allows for assembly or removal of the lift group without removing the hitch brackets from the tranny. With the hole on the left side, the long part of the shaft can be inserted at an angle, the lift can be moved worn between the two brackets, the short section of the shaft can be slid through the right bracket, then the collars can be positioned and set screws tightened. This will not work with the large hole on the right because there is no way that the long shaft can be put through the small hole. It should be assembled as shown in Maynards last picture above. My 61 Wards, my AC716H, and my AC712S are all set up that way. If you have two small holes, one of the hitch brackets will need to be removed to install the lift. On all of my trannys except the Sunstrand Hydro, the left and right hitch brackets can be interchanged. This makes it very easy to put them on the wrong sides when doing a rebuild or restoration, especially if the hitch assembly were completely disassembled for painting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
These are the photo's of my rear lift brackets. The hole on the left bracket is larger and is out of center to the rear too far to the rear of the tractor. As you can see the lift bar is not straight on the second picture. I see nothing which indicates the left bar was cut/drilled. Both brackets seem to be parrellel and the same shape. Any ideas? Anyone able to confirm how these brackets should measure on a 3112H? Note: One more clue, if I hold the lift up where a small hole should be, it seems to be straight. I think these plates unbolt and I can change this if I can find the right style for this tractor. So I'll put a wanted ad in for that, if I am advised these are the wrong brackets. The 3112H bracket from top left: [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/michaelg221/PICT0002_s.JPG[/img] The 3112H bracket from right: [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/michaelg221/PICT0004_s.JPG[/img] The 3112H bracket from left: [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/michaelg221/PICT0003_s.JPG[/img] Example 3012 Bracket: [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/michaelg221/PICT0001_s.JPG[/img] Example B112 bracket from left: [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/michaelg221/PICT0007_s.JPG[/img] Example B112 bracket from right: [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/michaelg221/PICT0006_s.JPG[/img] (I changed the pictures here for better sizing) These are the old poorly sized images: http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/michaelg221/PICT0018_m13.JPG http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/michaelg221/PICT0021_m13.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kent
Hard to tell, but it looks like the upright bars are not the same. The one on the left appears to have more of a curve in it... but you can't be sure from the picture. BTW, if you'll rename your pictures to get rid of the blank space in the file names, they'll show up instead of the diskette...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
Dan, unfortunately I can't get home in time to be 100% sure, but I remember the brackets looked right and the seat does close correctly. Looks like the same style curve in your picture. How much trouble is it for me to change these brackets? Remove the seat and these unbolt? I hope. Thanks for the quick reply!!! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×