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advice needed on A-C Big Ten bevel gear box rebuil


TomF

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Hi Tom, I think I can help you out. I just finished rebuilding the bevel gear box in a B-10. The gear on your input shaft is held on with a low profile head capscrew and flat washer, no lock washer because if you use a lock washer the head of the bolt will hit the cross shaft when you put it together. Because there is no lockwasher I use a little lock tite on the threads of the capscrew because they have been known to come loose. As for the capscrew,lockwasher, and square plate you refer to, if you look inside your gearbox there is a threaded hole in there right below where the input shaft comes into the box. Once you install the bearings and input shaft assembly, you put that square plate and capscrew in there to hold the bearing in. I also use a little lock tite on that also. Hope this helps you out. If you have any other questions feel free to e-mail me direct or leave a reply here and I'll be glad to help you out. Best of luck to you. Don Jr.
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I am replacing the bevel gears in the mid-section box on my 1965 Big Ten. My questions pertains to the input shaft. The driver gear is held onto this shaft with a low-profile head cap screw and a metal plate or washer. My B-Series Service Manual shows a cap screw with what looks like a lock washer retaining a square plate. What I seem to have is a cap screw, no lock washer, and a round thick washer which isn't quite flat (a little deformed like a Belleville washer). It's been a month since my son and I took this apart, and I'm having trouble recalling exactly what we had "way back then." Can anyone tell me what they found holding the gear on their input shaft(s)? If I add a lock washer, will I reduce the clearance above this low-profile bolt head enough to cause an interference? Thanks! (And I'll try to label things better the next time around!) Tom
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