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beuce

3112V questions

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beuce
I am having a hard time adjusting the cluch on my tractor. I adjusted it like the manual says; 7/8in gap bewteen bracket and the nuts, but it grinds real bad while it is set there. I ended up putting the nuts flush with the clutch bracket and it still grinds sometimes but is drivable. I am wondering if I am missing something or if there may be another adjustment somewhere. Also there is a lever on the bottom of the tranny which is hooked to a small rod which in turn is hooked up to a spring. The lever hangs straight down towards the ground and does not seem to do anything. The whole assembly looks as if it may be hooked up the deck pto. I have no idea what this leaver does. If anyone can understand my description :) and can fill me in on the function, that would be great! Lots of new snow in Michigan, looking forward to some plowing tonight! Thanks, Brian

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HubbardRA
That lever that you are talking about is the tensioner for the PTO belt. In other words, the belt that goes to the mower. When the belt is installed, the lever must pulled to the rear of the tractor till it swings over center and latches. Without a belt on the unit it will hang straight down.

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Kent
Also, the belt stop on the idler pulley is the key to getting it to clutch without grinding gears. See this post from the archives: http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=20536

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beuce
All my belt stops are in place, I guess I didn't know that they could or had to be adjusted. I can tell from the link Kent sent that the idler pulley belt stop is not adjusted right. I'll check that out tonight and see if I can get it to stop grinding. Thanks for the info on the belt tensioner lever. Makes sense now that I know. For the life of me I couldn't figure out what that thing did..... Thanks Guys!

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Kent
There is a reason a belt stop is called a belt stop... :D If the belt stop on the idler pulley is adjusted correctly, it will stop the belt when you clutch the tractor. This stops the driven pulley on the transmission from turning, and it doesn't grind... Other than the brake adjustment, the rest of the whole varidrive adjustment procedure deals with the "speed settings" if I recall correctly. The belt stop adjustment is THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT step in getting it to shift gears correctly. Do not set it just by the measurements provided, this is a starting point, assuming a brand-new (i.e. not worn) varidrive control system and belt. Do it by trial and error, watching what you're doing as you tweak it, and you'll be surprised at the difference it makes....

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ehertzfeld
That is the same problem I'm having with my 3310v. I thought I adjusted it right. It work wile I had the seat up and my eye on it! Funny how they do that! work when watched and not when not being watched. I guess I know how my boss feels! LOL LOL. Elon

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callwill
I have a 3110V(for sale) that has been a bear to adjust. Belt pinch by the clutch mechanism is important to stop the belt and the pulley on the tranny end. A couple of guys have a "tranny pulley brake" setup that they have posted. It actuates when you push in the clutch, stops the pulley & input from spinning & voila! No more grinding. Good project if you plan to keep it. Kent might want to scare up those posts(by at least 2 different owners) & "archive them" so that they are available to folks easily in the future. Kent, are you listening? I'm sure i'll get another email that says "already done"!

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beuce
I almost have it adjusted right. I can shift gears fine, except for 3rd. I have to throw it into 2nd then 3rd real quick, if I do that, no grinding. It's way too cold to screw around with it today, maybe this weekend. Thanks for every ones help!

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10HorseMan
My B110 had a problem with after clutch is let go it hesitates and grinds, Nuts adjusted and the main problem was that the "SPRING" was worn out and almost no tension. Other one has two on it. :)

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stevenj
If you are in gear, then apply the clutch/brake, the driven pulley will stop moving because it is being stopped by the brake since everything is connected through the engaged gears in the transmission. If you quickly shift between gears you should have no clashing as the driven pulley will not begin to rotate. The problem arises when you shift slow or pause in neutral. If the belt is creeping the driven pulley will begin to spin and then you will get gear clash. If you are in neutral and release (remove your foot from) the clutch/brake, the driven pulley will spin. When you apply the clutch/brake, the brake will not stop the driven pulley from spinning as it will if you were already in gear. The driven pulley needs to stop or coast down before you can shift without gear clash. The way this occurs is to get the belt to stop moving and also to get the belt to make contact with the driven pulley to act as a brake. Many people talk about adjusting the belt stop to get the belt to stop moving, but you also need to have enough belt drag on the driven pulley to get the driven pulley to stop moving. I suspect this is why some have built little rubbing block brakes to get the driven pulley to stop moving. If the belt was properly dragging on the driven pulley, it would stop moving immediately. If you experience gear clash when trying to shift out of neutral, moving the vari-speed lever to low (#1) position will minimize the gear clash because the driven pulley will stop moving. This is because the driven pulley is moving slower to begin with and I suspect there is more belt drag on the driven pulley. The key to eveything working is the adjustment of the whole vari-drive system, including how high the belt rides on the driven pulley, the position of the idler pulley belt guide, the position of the drive pulley belt guard away from the drive pulley, and the position of the clutch/brake rod adjustment nut. They are a pain to adjust, but when you finally get them right, you won't have the gear clash problems. Now, my vari-drive is not set-up properly anymore, and I get the gear clash when I try to shift out of neutral after I've released the clutch/brake to dismount the tractor. All I need to do is shift the vari-drive to low, apply the clutch/brake, wait a second, then shift with no gear clash. This summer, I'll tackle getting it spot-on. Hope this helps.

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beuce
I worked on it last night and have it close. I can shift between any gear with out grinding, but like stevenj, still have some issues while shifting out of neutral. I just push the clutch and wait a few seconds and every thing is ok. I need a new drive belt bad so I am not going to get to picky yet....

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