Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

cckemm

Bad alignment

Recommended Posts

cckemm
On my B10 with a with a single belt snowthrower the belt alignment from the front pto to the blower is off about an inch or more. I will be pulling the pulley off the front of the tractor tomorrow and mounting it with the shoulder to the inside witch should bring it out about a half inch but still does not look like the belt will come off straight down to the idler pullys. This week was the first use of the Snowthrower for me and the belt I put on lasted about 20 mins before it self-destructed. Is the half inch out gonna help me or do I have to get that belt into perfect alignment with the idler pullys? BTW the belt turned over upside down on the PTO when I first mounted it, I rolled it back the way it should be and tried it again, and it rolled right back to upside down on the PTO. I figured this was from the bad alignment. Also, according to the belt chart this blower uses a 56" belt, but that seems a bit tight as I couldn't get the blower to disengage completely, anybody else have this problem?? I really hate the thought of taking the blower back off and putting the blade back on.....Is so much fun makin the snow fly :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kent
Sounds to me like something besides the crankshaft drive pulley is out of alignment. The hub with setscrew on the drive pulley is supposed go toward the front of the tractor, so that the pulley is in close to the grille, as shown below. [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/images/snow_ops/figure_3_small.jpg[/img] Perhaps the brackets that hold the clutch and idlers pulleys is bent, so they aren't aligning correctly.... 56.1" is the correct belt length, assuming you're using the correct pulleys everywhere. Also, how did you have your belt stops adjusted? They must be adjusted pretty close to the pulley for the clutch to engage/disengage correctly. Note that the amount of travel on the clutch is adjustable, by loosening the setscrew on the locking collar that holds the tension spring. Here's the Owner's Manual -- it may be of assistance. http://www.simpletractors.com/operation/snow_thrower/single_belt.htm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
cckemm
ok, pulley is mounted exactly as in the picture, the belt fingers mounted on the front of the tractor in the picture I do not have. As far as pulley size, the pto pulley is slightly smaller than original 5.45", all the rest of the pulleys are original. Nothing seems to be bent out of shape. With the smaller PTO pulley I should be having a problem engaging not disengaging. Will read the manual quick and see if I see anything there that I did wrong. Thanks Kent Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
cckemm
ok, I see in the manual that the belt doesn't seem well aligned there either. I would think that the missing belt stops may be my problem.... Will search tommorow and see if I can find some to buy or if I have to maufacture some.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kent
Make yourself some belt fingers (i.e. stops), before you waste another belt. They hold the belt so it doesn't turn over when it is clutched. They also keep the belt confined so that it doesn't "oval out" and still drag on the pulley -- without the stops, it won't clutch, regardless of the belt length... Get some 1/8" or 3/16" steel rod, heat it and bend it, so that it looks as shown. Then adjust them them in to where they barely clear (1/16" to 1/4") the belt when you have the drive engaged. Then when you clutch it, they'll hold the belt in place and the drive pulley will just spin freely inside that loop...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
cckemm
ok, next dumb question, the PTO pulley is a little deeper than the original, the belt does not ride right at the surface of the pulley. Should I grind the pulley down to where the belt will be flush with the outside of the pulley? This seems kinda critical if I understand how the belt stops will work once they are installed. I think I could do this easily with the angle grinder and run the tractor at an idle while I am grinding.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kent
I don't think that will be necessary, but can't guarantee it. The belt stops just "contain" the belt, and don't contact the pulley. When you disengage the clutch, the spring-loaded pulley on the left (facing the tractor) rises up, allowing the belt to go slack. The belt stops hold the belt in that loop, so the pulley can spin freely inside it... I'd make the belt stops first, install and adjust them. Then adjust the clutch tension so that it barely goes over center, to keep it engaged, using the set screw on the collar. Then try engaging it and disengaging it a few times with the engine running. Like I said, I think you'll be fine but I can't guarantee it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MPH
One other possiblity, though without the stops it woun't work anyway, is maybe you clutched pulley is not able to raise up as high as it should. The last time I used mine it started catching on the frame, guessing something got tweeted but haven't checked it out yet.. MPH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

×