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D-17_Dave

Brake service on 4040

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D-17_Dave
Has anyone taken apart the rear end to access the brakes on a powermax? I looked at the parts manual and it shows them between the final drive and the trans. Will the final drive seperate with a few bolts from the trans. or do you have to diss. the final drive to get into it. The D-line of ag tractors slide the final drive off by takeing a half dozen bolts out and slideing it off. I just can't tell by the parts book about these. Not afraid of either way but would like to know if it's a 30 minute job or a 3HR job.:(

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LBS
The easiest way to do it is to remove the wheel, fender (5 bolts), final drive (4 bolts) and extension/brake housing (7 bolts?) and your brakes are right there. You can just remove the extension/brake housing, but it gets really big & heavy trying to hold the spring in and line it up and slide it on and put the first bolt in [:0]:(!B):([V]!!! Plan on 2HRs for remove and reinstall.

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powermax_paul
I've never done it either, Lawrence. Does it make a big difference or are the brakes still marginal at best? I'd probably have to remove the backhoe to fix one of the tractor's brakes so it could be a big job.B)

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D-17_Dave
I figured on removeing the wheel, then takleing the final drive and whatever else with the chain fall. Just wasn't shure if the final drive had to come apart and if the brake was inside the gear houseing. As mayby I'd be in the oil or not. Might takle it before the game tommorrow and let you know.

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gretsch
You NEED a copy of the repair manual, it will save a lot of aggravation though it is not a very difficult job. It is a good to plan this along with cleaning and repainting the rear axles and body. After the final drive comes off there is a plate that you remove to access the brakes. It will be a waste of time if you just clean out the brakes without replacing the o-ring and the axle seal. You also need to drain the hydro fluid prior to this, if not it will pour out when you remove the brake assembly for cleaning and/or replacement. I've done it more than once and have found that it is easier to remove as much as possible in the process. This will also include: the seat, transmission cover and the 3-point hitch (if applicable). Probably the hardest bolts of all to get off are the fender bolts as they are small and tend to rust and occasionally break.

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D-17_Dave
Thanks Butch, I'll keep this in mind. Athough I usually don't do anything without makeing a mess. Paul, how many of the BIG ones do you have? Thanks too Lawrance. By the way, when you gonna come by and give me one of them (fun rides)?

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StanD
Dave: Also good time to check final drive bearings & relace seals if necessary. Have found several that have been too loose. This allows excess clearance on the gears. Also the 4040 has a lighter axel than the 4041,s & 9020,s. Be sure to use thread sealant on lower bolts on drop housing or they will leak. Bearings & seals are available at any good parts store as is seal inside rearend casting by brakes. Inside seal must be positioned in about 1/4 inch as there is vent or drain hole to allow any leakage to drain out rather than mess up brake discs. Usually discs are ok & can be cleaned up with brake clean. You may find broken springs on the brake assembly. They are available from Simplicity but hang on to your wallet, they are about 15.00-18.00 each. When reattaching drop housing to extension plate use two long punches to guide in & clamp a vise grip on top to hold. Get the holes alaigned perfectly so output shaft is centered on seal. There is enough slack in the holes to cause misalaignment & thus cause inside seal failure prematurely. StanD

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JimH
Dave, Gretch gave you some good detail of what to expect and what to plan on when you get thing's apart. I went through the same thing last winter with my 620. You wana have a service and parts manual handy. Draining the tranny should be your first step. My tranny did not have a drain plug so I removed the sending unit, located in front of the tranny. When you get thing's apart, don't be surprised if the brake discs are saturated with oil. The axle seals tend to leak on these machines. A new axle seal should be on your replacement parts list, along with the "o" ring mentioned above. If your brake discs are saturated with oil, you could try cleaning them with brake-kleen. I elected to replace my discs because they were saturated bad.(2 on each axle). They are extremely expensive ( approx. $70.00 ea) You will also want to check the disc actuator assy. when you get things apart. It should work freely when actuated. Sorry for the long response, but I just wanted to give you a heads up on what to expect. Let me know if you need more detail on the process? And let all of us know how it goes! Good luck, Jim.......

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nighteye
Hi Dave. I just downloaded a complete service manual from Simplicity Publications. Took a little while but punched holes in the pages and put them in a binder. It sure is nice to have while working on the tractor. I got it by following UCD's instructions to the letter. I'm not good enough on this computer thing to give you a link but you can find those instructions in a current post by UCD. Its in Talking Tractors forum under "Check this out"

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LBS
Paul, I think if you did it right they would work well. I just replaced the seals and used brake cleaner, acetone, propane torch and moms oven on the disks! I finaly gave up 'cause oil just kept boiling out, and I put it together.

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