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Winter motor oil

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JCS
If 30 w oil is too thick for winter use (reading prior discussions) and synthic oil is the one to use then what weight should I be using? I have the same problem, one hydro tractor will start without clutch pushed in and one hydro will start better with clutch pushed in. I think the answer supplied by ? was correct becuase the one that will not start usless clutch is pushed in had alot of hydro work done and is probably in better condition. What synthic oil should I use for summer mowing?

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MPH
I've run 10w30 Mobil 1 in my B-112 since I put it back together. I didn't do anything to the engine at that time except flush it out, so I have no history of the engine. Learned about a month ago AMSOil has a 0-40 sny small engine oil,Think I'll go to running that in engines I rebuilt.

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HubbardRA
Because I don't have a large amount of property and the usage cycles of my tractors are relatively short, I use 10W-30 year round. Planning to pick up some acreage in the near future and move. At that time I will consider changing to 30 weight for summer use.

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Dadsy98
Like Bunky, I use 30W in the summer and 10W30 in the winter. I'm considering the synthetic oil. I change oil in three of the tractors (the work horses) 3 times a year. 18 quarts is around $75.00 . Still thinking... Steve

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MPH
I've heard anywhere from 15-25,000 miles on a car change Dan. Can't say as though I buy it, when its dirty looking I change it, or every spring and fall provided I don't take any 10,000 mile trips out to the 'real world'. Be interewsting to ask someone like AMS--Oil on small engines, believe there was a link posted to them on the cold oil demo post.

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comet66
I have always used Shell Dino oil in everything except my motorcycles (wet clutch). I have used 10w-30 since it became available. Had quite a few high mileage and some real hard working vehicles of all sorts and never an engine failure. (knock wood) I do change oil and filter every 3,000 mi. though. However after that cold weather demo I am seriously considering synthetic after I use up the three cases I have on the shelf.

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dirtsaver
In my tractors I switched to Castrol Syntec. I use 30w in the summer and 10w30 in the winter. Starting has improved greatly. I change oil after about 50 hours of hard work, a little longer on the light duty tractors.

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ikipp
When MObil 1 synthetic oil became available (I'm going back here a number of years), Mobil literature said that cars had to change synthiic oil every 25,000 miles; not the standard 3,000 miles. Now Mobil doesn't make that claim in its literature. So I called the Laboratory at Mobil and spoke to their scientists. (This was a number of years ago.) The man told me that the syn oil was good for 25,000 miles. Mobil could not use a 25,000 mile recommended oil change, because car manufactures would not warantee their engines if the oil was not changed more frequently. (i.e. Mobil didn't want to take on the liability for the engine manufactures.) Syn is expensive. For the couple of quarts a small tractor uses, I think the extra cost is well worth the extra peace of mind. AS a compromise, you can use semisynthetics and save some money.

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D-17_Dave
quote:
Originally posted by MPH
I've heard anywhere from 15-25,000 miles on a car change Dan. Can't say as though I buy it, when its dirty looking I change it, or every spring and fall provided I don't take any 10,000 mile trips out to the 'real world'. Be interewsting to ask someone like AMS--Oil on small engines, believe there was a link posted to them on the cold oil demo post.
I've used syn. in my vehicles with extended use. 10-15 thousand on an oil change with no noticable diff. The problem w/ oils is the natural oils break down from use. The syn. oils breakdown from the influx of impurities such as cumbustion byproducts. I didn't have this occure in my pickup, rather the lack of long trips would not remove the moister buildup from the oil and lead to condensation problemson upper engine components. After this I found about every 10,000 miles I needed to change it too keep the contamination out of the crankcase. :)

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MPH
AAAhhh Dave, take long trips for tractors???? Just got home from another triangle run,Fbks, Anch, Tok, 980something miles. I know I got the moister out between Fairbanks and Anchorage, Man that Parks hwy can be a long 357 miles, even pushin 80.

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RonT
I use 30W all year but I keep mine in a garage where it is about 40 at the coldest. I also run 30W in all of my cars and trucks and have never had a engine falure. I will run 10w-30 in the winter from Dec.1 to about mid March. Then it is back to 30w.

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BigSix
All: In all this discussion, I'm assuiming when you're referring to 10-30w oil, you're referring to the modern, automotive service-grade oils? As in, API Service Classification SH? No one mentioned nondetergent oil, yet back when our machines were built, weren't we all told to use nondetergent oil, "to prevent the additives from foaming up and causing bearing damage, due to the aeration (i.e., air is a poor lubricator)?" I've been pulling my hair out tring to find a certain nondetergent, multi-viscosity 10-30w oil specially formulated for winter use for small engines which take nondetergent oil. A dealer sold me once. No one's heard of it. Also, weren't we supposed to use only single viscosity oils, for the same reason, i.e., the (muliti-viscosity) additives allegedly cause foaming? Can I stop worring about this and just use a popular car oil, like Castrol GTX 10-30w SH-classification?

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10HorseMan
Synthetic oil is mostly made in a laboratory and will not burn. Most race cars run synthetic oil. Regular oil which I run 10w30 all season dosent seem to be bad for the engine. 30w gets thick below 40degrees and breaks down easier. 10w30 dosent get thick as bad as the other, and break down in summer as bad. :D

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rs07
I myself use Straight 30 Weight Oil (SAE 30) in my Allis 916H. Kohler Engine owner's manual recommends 30W. This goes for both the K-Series and Magnum Series Single Cylinder Engines.

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UCD
Robert Your Manual will also tell you to use a lower viscosity/weight oil in colder Temps I believe below 40° and and a lower one still for 10° and below. By useing a 30w oil in cold weather you are putting unessary wear on yor engine.

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UCD
I think you will find that the oil grades of today do not foam. You can use it year round. Don't listen to all of the old wives tales out there. Most old wives don't work on engines, or anything else mechanical for that matter.

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