3-pt hitch to use plug aerator?

[dratkinson]

All, I want to build a plug aerator to pull behind my B-206. From reading this site I understand that I need a 3-pt hitch to attach the aerator and force it into the ground. I found this on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2377539947&ssPageName=ADME:B:BN:US:1 It looks like some parts are missing. What else do I need to make this 3-pt hitch work? Thanks in advance. /r David

[RedbarnRick]

Hi Download this from Simplicity Tech-Pub it covers all the attachments for B10 thru B212 tractors anything and everything you can attach. TP 400-3775

[gregc]

David, I'm afraid that you are pretty much on your own on this one, unless someone else here has already fabricated a rear lift for the B-206. There was no OEM rear lift for that tractor. I'm sure though that one could be made for it, somehow. Here's a link for the B-206 Tractor & Attachments Parts Catalog: http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_400_3776_00_XX_A.pdf Wish I could have been of more help to you.

[Dutch]

Why not use an aerator that doesn't need a 3 point hitch? Like this "allied" core aerator attachment for Simplicity tractors > http://www.simpletractors.com/simplicity/1969_spotlight/still_more.htm [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/images/spotlight/aerator.jpg[/img]

[gretsch]

Exactly. The agri-fab models (and others probably) have an upper rack for mounting concrete blocks. Even with a 3-point assemble, it would be best used in the float mode thereby you would not gain anything by having a 3-point.

[dratkinson]

Thanks, I had not thought about a float mode on a 3-pt hitch and how it would be needed for uneven ground. And I guess I could consider a tow behind unit, but it had not crossed my mind. /r David

[DaveM]

I use my neighbor's homemade 48" plug-type pull behind aerator every spring and have no problem getting it sufficiently into the ground. And this aerator pulls plugs every 4" by 4". The key is to put plenty of weight on top of it (I use steel bars) and to aerate while the ground is still soft, like a couple of days after a nice rain. Speed is also important--the slower you go the deeper the blades can sink. If you go too fast they'll just skip across the ground. IMO, using a 3-pt to force the aerator into the ground may cause potential damage to the blades. DaveM

[MadMike]

DaveM, Out of curiosity, do you do anything after aeration or just let the plugs breakdown? The reason I ask is I have been reading over on the Lawn Care Forum in Yahoo about organic lawn care. Most "experts" there usually spread a thin 1/4" layer of compost after aeration. Last year I took the organic approach and spread roughly 10-15 lbs of cracked corn per 1000 sq. ft. on my lawn and did notice a difference within about a month. The best part was my kids and dogs were able to run around while I was doing it. Mike

[Agricola]

Instead of steel plates/bricks on the devices that need weight, how about a barrel filled with water. That way you don't break your back, you can water the lawn when completed and it is easy to adjust the weight.

[Agricola]

Dave, get us a picture of that homemade plugger. I want to make one but have not gotten it figured out in my head yet.

[DaveM]

I usually fertilize with crabgrass preventer shortly after aerating. Plugs break down naturally after a decent rain. You will have mud problems for a little while (getting on your shoes), but it's not that bad and is only temporary. I'll try to get a pic of the aerator at a later date--hopefully before spring comes along. I know the neighbor has it stored, and it may be a little while before I can dig it out. DaveM

[dratkinson]

I also have read that compost spread annually in association with aeration helps improve a lawn. Here in CO we have a lot of clay in the soil. This annual amendment is supposed to be a more preferred method (cheaper, less lawn disruption) to stripping off the top 6" of soil and replacing it with good topsoil. MadMike, what does the cracked corn do for the lawn? Is this an amendment by adding plant matter, or does it replace the need for chemical fertilizers as I seem to remember that corn is high in nitrogen? Either way, our squirrels are going to love it. Makes me think I need to find my father’s recipe for squirrel mulligan. So would the best lawn be grown by using a pre-emergent herbicide and then following it up with some non-chemical amendment? So has this thread moved into the realm of "Sow and Tell"? /r David

[Leroy]

[quote]Originally posted by dutch
Why not use an aerator that doesn't need a 3 point hitch? Like this "allied" core aerator attachment for Simplicity tractors > http://www.simpletractors.com/simplicity/1969_spotlight/still_more.htm That doesnt look all that hard to make using a 55 gal drum and 1" square stainless welded to 2" square stainless pipe and appropriate back plate support. Not cheap to get the stainless but it wont rust much and it will keep an edge longer than steel.

[MadMike]

dratkinson, The cracked corn is basically lawn food. The organic theory in lawn care is to not so much improve the actual plant (grass) as synthetic fertilizer does, but to improve the soil so grass can get everything it needs from the soil. Having two small children, dogs, and a rather big yard I took a lot of interest in this and gave it a try last year. You will not see the quick results like you see with synthetic fertilizers but I must say I did notice a difference. Check out this link for further information. http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/lawns/msg051111397219.html For me the cracked corn was a good choice as I can get it at a local feed mill for approx. $38.00 per 500lbs. By the way, there is a natural preemergent product also, Corn Gluten Meal. You can read about it at the link above. Let me know what you think. Mike