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KSever

Briggs CastIron 10HP Engine Ignition Question

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KSever
After the last snow we had and this engine stalling and not starting for a couple hours I switched the ignition over to the battery coil ignition I had on the Kohler waiting to go into the AC314. Only problem I have been having is when I have the throttle up at around top rpm and the governor wants to kick in when I get into deep snow with the snowthrower. Seems as though the engine wants to stall so I back down on the throttle and it starts running good again. Does this sound like it could be a points adjustment or the governor out of adjustment? Didn't have this problem with the electronic ignition but I did have the troublesome long awaited hard starts since it did have to spin at a faster rpm to get the electronic ignition to fire. I would like to stay with the battery,points and coil igniton but I would like to find this stalling problem. I have to also add that I know the governor was not froze up from snowblowing since this happened as soon as I took it out of the garage on the first swipe down the driveway.

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JimC_Vt
It sounds as if the carb is running to lean,back out the main needle valve 1/4 turn and give it a whirl.....even my 10 horse will stall if I try to move to much snow too quickly ,but it stalls fighting to the last breath. Good Luck Jim

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HubbardRA
It could also be the points adjustment. With the battery-coil ignition the only item that controls the ignition timing is the point gap. You need to make sure that it is .020 or just slightly more(tight to just slightly free on the feeler gage). More gap means faster timing, less gap means timing is being retarded. Retarded timing will cause a problem similar to that you described. Check this before you adjust the carb. By the way, I am running a Kohler coil with B/S points and condenser on my 243431 engine. After 15 years, I still swear by this setup instead of the magneto.

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maxtorman1234
On my Kohler, i have brand new points, condencer, ignition coil, spark plug and wire, wont run good at all with points set at .20, I have them set at .14 for it to run good. What could be causeing this? Just wondering, seems sort of strange. Thanks

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10HorseMan
On old B&S Cast Iron engines the points are operated off of the cam, to prevent firing every time. On my B&S the part of the cam that the points ride on wore out, setting the points to factory specs or where it runs best, and then down goes the tiller down goes the engine. Converted over to coil and runs like a charm. :D

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BLT
Stalling will occur if the gov is out of adjustment to the carb. However there is a tell tale sign. Controlling the high speed is next to impossible as the flyweights are out of sync with the carb. The weights have to be in constant contact with governor arm or it will not control high speed and will be a "slug" when more gas is called for and give you that stall effect.

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JCS
Some users say they adjust the point with the motor running??? HOW I got a Model 19 rebuilt (dont ask how much) for a B-1 and while on test stand it would start with rope but in tractor MUCH CRANKING and holding of throttle shut and squinking of eyes is needed before starting

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10HorseMan
On the B-110 (243431) the 3/8inch nut is losened and the points are adjustable with a screwdriver (FLAT) when the engine runs best the nut can be tightened and it should run. but if the cam is out of wack the points will constantly go in and out of adjustment. :D

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