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Carburetor Settings & Compression for B&S 10HP

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I'm preparing to do a little work on my 10 HP Simplicity which is about 27 years old as near as I can tell. In particular, I'm planning to rebuild the carburator.

The engine model number appears to be 243431 0627-01.

Does anyone know both the low speed and high speed adjustment setting (how many turns) as well as what the engine compression should be?

I intend to check the compression before doing the carb work.

Thanks...

Kelly

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Kelly
To get you started on the settings run the adjusting screws down till they touch and back off one and one half turns. The engine should start and you can adjust from there. As to taking a compression test it will be hard to get a good reading that means anything. If you want to find the condition of the engine use an air leak down tester. This will tell you the percentage of leakage and where the leakage is coming from. If you have lots of air coming from the dipstick tube the rings and or cylinder is brobally wore, if the air is coming from the exaust then check the valves. I hope this will give you some idea where to start. Larry

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Kelly
To get you started on the settings run the adjusting screws down till they touch and back off one and one half turns. The engine should start and you can adjust from there. As to taking a compression test it will be hard to get a good reading that means anything. If you want to find the condition of the engine use an air leak down tester. This will tell you the percentage of leakage and where the leakage is coming from. If you have lots of air coming from the dipstick tube the rings and or cylinder is probally wore, if the air is coming from the exaust then check the valves. I hope this will give you some idea where to start. Larry

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Kelly, If you don't have acess to a leak down detecter, cranking comp. with eng warmed up should be at least 75 lbs. with throttle wide open while cranking. It's not as good as a leak-down check but it will give an indication of eng cond. If it's below min lbs. piston/rings or valves need repair but with comp test one can't determine which parts are worn. Good Luck! dlc

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And you can also squirt some engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole after your initial reading - if it raises the numbers much it usually indicates ring wear - but can sometimes fool you if the engine is already leaking oil into the ring area and creating its own seal this way. Also be prepared for a cloudy restart until the excess oil burns out. Briggs actually doesn't give a PSI spec but I would agree with Dave's suggested 75PSI minimum as a general guide in this case.

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Thanks for the suggestions.

I do have one question though.

I assume the 75 lbs referred to (hot cranking w/throttle open) is INCH pounds, NOT foot pounds.

Correct?

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