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glaucomyssabrinus

Taper Lock Pulley Installation

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glaucomyssabrinus
Hello, I am fixing a leak on a vickers hydraulic transmission. In the process of removing the transmission from the tractor, I had to remove the large pulley from the pump housing. I am not familiar with this type of pulley connection and am looking for some advice on the proper way to re-install it once I fix the vickers (my removal method was somewhat dubious). The pulley consists of two main pieces--the main pulley, and a center taper-lock core. The main pulley and it's core are joined by two set screws (both in the same threaded hole, but one set screw is on the front side of the pulley and 2nd one is on the back side). There is also a small key that fits in grooves on both the main shaft and the inside diameter of the core. When disassembling, the repair manual only mentioned 1 set screw, and in fact, I couldn't remove the 2nd set screw because there is too little space between the pulley and pump housing to access the 2nd set screw with an allen wrench (don't ask me how I got it out). I'm wondering if someone put a 2nd set screw in because the inner core piece is cracked (and is actually 2 pieces) but still looks functional. Any idea on the proper steps for reassembling this pulley back on the shaft? I didn't really want to start beating on it with a hammer without knowing which parts went on first (the pulley, taper-lock core, set screw(s), and/or key). Thanks! Todd

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john-holcomb
If it is a true taper lock made by Dodge than it should have three half tapped holes that tighten it and two that push it off. At the least it sounds as if yours was installed wrong.There are a number of tapered bushing pulleys on the market, another popular one is a QD bushing. If you are installing a taper lock the procedure is. 1. slide on the pulley if the taper bushing goes to the outside and then the key and bushing, put on the key and bushing first if it goes to the inside. 2. rough position the cone [tapered bushing]. 3. slide the pulley up on the bushing finger tite and check alignment. [The pulley will creep up the taper about 1/8 to 1/4 inch based on the bushing diameter]4. tap the bushing to the proper position.!!!Tap the bushing not the pulley!!!!5.start the three set screws into the half holes tapped in the bushing and start to tighten them down. if the pulley moves to far or not far enough, put a couple of bolts into the two half holes tapped in the pulley.back off the set screws and pop the taper with the two pusher bolts. tap the taper bushing to the correct position and start over.

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glaucomyssabrinus
Thanks John, that helps. The tapered bushing says Taper Lock, but it only has 3 half-tapped holes, two tapped on the pulley side, and 1 tapped on the bushing side, but it looks like the principle is the same--2 that tighten it, and 1 that pushes it off. I was thrown off by the fact that whoever last put the pulley on had rotated the bushing so that one of the holes was fully threaded (and thus he/she had to put both set screws in the same hole because the other two holes were only 1/2 holes). I should send that in as a lateral puzzle. The key doesn't exactly want to fit easily into the groves on either the shaft or bushing, but I take it that it is better to place the bushing and key first at the proper location on the shaft and then put on the pulley, rather than assemble the pulley and bushing first and then pound in the key afterwards, or does it really matter?? The bushing is in two pieces so it's a bit awkward, but fortunately the break is at the crimp rather than where the key goes in.

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glaucomyssabrinus
Thanks, the web site clearly illustrated my bushing--they are definitely Taper-lock bushings. And someone definitely put the pulley on wrong last time. Too bad mine isn't the newer integrated key style...

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